if your planning to upgrade your wheels, brakes tires someday then I would get the base and spend the extra 3 grand for that.

sport:tup:

:icon18:

On the auto the decision is less compelling. You can buy the sports brakes, used for about $1000, and a brand new Carbonetic real LSD for about $1200 (not the viscous crap). That just leaves the wheels and tires. If you are going to swap those out anyway then the decision becomes tougher.

BTW a good after market BBK starts at $4K.

Ok, get the sport package. is that simple.

Enjoy.

Not that simple. It's a stock or swap decision up front - especially if financing in the upgrades. Why pay on extras that aren't staying on the car? But assuming no plans to mod on package pieces - yes upgrade is incredible bargain.

No no, I was talking about "zmyride" comment, he is not stating that he is going to upgrade in the future :)

Get Sport Package, as you said that you can afford it, and enjoy.
Spoiler, Rims, Tires, Breaks, if it is manual transmission, synchro reeving.

i was presented a deal on a base 6spd that i could not pass up, I have since traded my base wheels plus cash for the 19s, the brakes are just fine. but the lack of an lsd is the biggest bummer. I am going to try to make it until next summer and my next mod will be a LSD. So i paid 700+ my base wheels for oem 19s with near mint rubber, and ill get the lsd for 1250. Thats 2000 right there, and i still dont have SRM or the brakes.

I got the dealer to throw in front and rear spoilers for free with my purchase as well, so if i had to pay for that it would be even closer to the original 3k package price. BUT in my situation they were playing with the price of the base model a lot more than the other so i took the base.

its worth it if you personally want/like what it offers.

:rofl2:

This seems as good a place as any to ask since it's been mentioned in here so...

Wheel/tire size differences: Means you don't rotate tires and, what, you just replace the front ones more often than the rear?

And, heel/toe rev-matching. That refers to having your foot on the brake/gas at the same tiime, but seriously, unless you're "racing" for some kind of reason, wouldn't you just leave the brake alone when downshifting and just "feather" the gas most of the time (assuming you were in a car with no SRM)?

With rear wheel drive and street driving I expect to see my rear tires wear out faster than the front.

SRM is probably a nice feature if your concern is lap times, but not as important for daily driving. The 7at was my choice after driving manual transmission cars for over 45 years.

I chose the sport package because I wasn’t planning on changing the wheels, brakes, springs or lsd and the package was a good value (no road racing in my future).

Dayum ! Another old fart. I'm not feeling so lonely any more ! :)

Both the base an the sport have a staggered setup, you cannot rotate the tires. On RWD cars typically the rears wear out faster on street driving and the fronts wear out faster on track.

Heel & toe refers to the technique of braking for a corner while down shifting to ensure that you are in the target gear for the corner and saves clutch wear and heat because you are synchronizing the gear box with the engine.
You obviously don't need to heel & toe if you are just simply down shifting.

Even just commuting your tires are gonna last 20k miles or less. From the research I've done online the tires for the Sports package wheels are gonna be about $50+ more for each. That's about an extra $200+ every 18-24 months.

Just something to consider.

Sport package. This is a sports car.