Building a garage
 

I know there are a couple threads like this on the forum, but it looks like they are a bit dated at this point.

The lease on my current garage is running out in a couple months and I've decided to have a 1 1/2, tandem style garage built in my yard. The current dimensions I'm looking at are 14'x27' with a 10'x7' door. I DIY anything I can so i'll definitely be adding a MaxJax portable garage lift (MaxJax Portable Car Lift - Home Garage Lift - Dannmar - MaxJax USA), an air compressor, ample lighting and electric and a couple ceiling fans to combat the heat in the summer. Id also like to get a work bench and storage and place them against the back wall.

With all that in mind. What else do I need to consider? What are your recommendations and experiences?

If you have pics of your setup please also post them up!

Add hot and cold faucets with a drain in the floor so you can wash/detail all indoors in the garage :)

It's on my list of must haves when I build my next place. That plus your list and a couple others items.

I thought about plumbing for a utility sink, but the added cost to do so doesn't seem worth it to me. I'm trying to keep concrete, construction and electric under $15k, which isn't easy in Cincinnati.


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I manufactured sheds for 30 years...U might check into the shed guys that do garages, U could get a bare bones one and fix up...don't forget county/city codes, don't try to skirt the system and no permits...if u get caught(and neighbors love to bitch) it can get ugly.

Building a garage
 

Go with 10' ceilings. It'll be tight with the car at the full height on the lift if you don't.

Also, a portable ac unit or building in a window unit makes it a lot more comfortable in the summer.
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How do you like you MaxJax lift? Thanks for the input on the ceilings!


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It's fantastic. I'm kicking myself for not buying one years ago. But, make sure you account for the fact you'll be installing a lift when you pour your foundation so you have a thick enough slab.

I would do 12' ceilings and a 4 post lift. That way you can use the floor space during the winter storage months.

I've already considered that. How thick is yours? Are there any electrical requirements for the lift?

:iagree: extra height is a must! I have 14' in my garage and love it........ Now I just need a lift :icon17:

Building a garage
 

I don't need to get that high. As long as I can get under with a creeper I'll be fine. I have center post now and thats what i do

The MaxJax is also portable. It bolts into the ground when you need it and you remove it when you aren't using it.

Also may need to take into account other people's cars that may go on the lift so you need plenty of height for those people to(wife, friends, kids, etc).


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The lift just requires a standard outlet. If you have them pour a 6" slab you'll be fine. The instructions call for a 4" and that would work as well, but I like overkill when it involves something holding a 3000lb car over my face.

Make sure you run a 220 outlet in there if you plan on a big air compressor. And you can't have too many electrical outlets.

Meh... I don't want to work on a jeep anyway... Hahaha

This. Mine works fine for my cars and my wife's, but if you have a truck or SUV there's no way I can get the jack to full height.

One thing to remember - once you have a lift, everyone you know will then come and want to use it.

Building a garage
 

I picture a 350z/ RX7 as my next project car and My buddies have FRS' and 240zs so I think I'll be ok.

RapidAir 1/2in. Master Kit, Model# 90500 | Air Compressor Piping Kits| Northern Tool + Equipment

Consider a setup like this so you don't have air lines running everywhere.

Also, don't forget the beer fridge and speakers.

Spending the extra money on Racedeck for the floors would be awesome. If I was going to be in my house for more than another year it would be my next project.

I was considering polishing or sealing the concrete


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Building a garage
 

Check and check. I have a 5.1 Polk surround system that I used at my first home but couldn't at my current one. That's definitely going in there.

Hose and electrical reals/ drops as well

I'd stay away from the epoxy coating. It'll lift off unless you prep everything just right. A hot tire will peel it up. Polished concrete may end up being too slick if there's moisture or oil on it.

I have a 10m x 20m shed at the back of my property, which is 5 4m x 10m bays, with 3.7m high walls and clear-span gable roof (5m+ at highest point).

The rear wall is lined with 2.1m high racking to store all the race bits and pieces.

I keep my race car trailer and the 6'x4' box trailer in the first bay, second bay is a 4-post hoist - has the Z34 on it at present, the 3rd bay holds my current race car whilst we rebuild the front suspension following lower ball joint failure last year (new uprights, upper and lower arms, steering arm and tie rods plus shock mounts - a total redesign). I have a 2-post hoist to be installed in the race car bay. Both hoists have 3-phase motors and power is dropped from the roof. I have an air-compressor at the back of bay 3 as well.

4th bay stores my Z32TT and my 1972 MGB GT V8 roadie (lazy 380hp).

I have 240v 3-phase available for a large capacity stick welder and maybe a tig as well (I cannot weld for sh1t but my nephew who lives locally has his boiler-maker welding ticket and can weld anything).

Every bay has 4 x 240v single-phase outlets and the floor is 4" reinforced concrete with 8" pads 1m square under the hoist posts

The 5th bay rear third houses benches (stainless tops) with space for mig-welder, parts washer, drill press, grinder/linisher and post-mounted vice. The middle third houses the garden stuff for SWMBO and the front third has the bar fridge, table with kettle (simply cannot bring myself to get a coffee machine in the shed) and a 50" screen on the wall with Dolby 5.1 system underneath, plus an old couch so we can watch motorsport and not annoy the women folk in the house. TV is networked to the house network so I have cable and internet TV available as well.

Recommendations (I have been planning this shed for 40 years !!!!) .........

Thicker floor is mandatory for hoists (Aus standards call for 8" or 200mm)
A sink and cold water is good, hot/cold water is better - no going back into the house to wash up
Heating and cooling is also good, I have a pot-belly wood-burner to go in for winter and a 2nd hand a/c unit for the summer
Acid etch the concrete and paint is with proper paint - I did not do it and bitterly regret it now - I get a "lot" of concrete dust and it is a pita
Shed is remote monitoring alarmed and fitted with IP camera's so I can view it on my phone

The exercise was not cheap but this is our last house before getting that old that I cannot enjoy my hobby, so what the hell ....

It's just one of those things I want/need. If my garage ceiling was higher I could put the Z on a 4 post lift, stick it in the air, and be able to use the space under it to park a car, or use the space for rolling benches so I can fabricate/work on other stuff.

My next house will have the space to build a set up similar to BGTV8's.

Edit- FWIW I currently have a three car garage and that isn't big enough.

I have a 19x11 garage. My Z barely fits. I hope this helps.

Yes!! Car lift!! I love mine!! Put lots of lights in there! He'll, if I could I would put a row of them in the concrete floor to shine up under the car when I work and not have to drag a hot as shop light around.

Floor drain is a good idea. Run solid air lines and electric sockets everywhere you can. Add a floor drain in the corner with a spigot. You can detain inside and wash your hands there after messing wth the car Savin the doors from grease. Add insulation on all walls and garage door. Have a space in one of the walls where you can plop a window ac unit. Cheap and easy AC.

YzGyz.

YzGyz

I have the Roof of a 24ft by 36 foot started that is 10ft high on the sides. The arch in the middle is taller. Get what you want right off the bat, it is cheaper.

Best thing I ever did when I built my garage a few years ago was do a 2-room set-up. Cars only in the front, and then garden tools, etc. in the back. When people see it, they love it. No worries about a rake falling off the wall or tripping on a bag of potting soil when you are getting out of the car.

Wiggins, I just re-did my garage in February, fresh paint, new cabinets and also installed a sink. Did not do the floors, but may put down tile? You would be surprised how much of a difference it makes to just simply clean the concrete. I will post up some pictures for ya, to get some ideas. :tup:

Subd

Ok Wiggins, here you go buddy.

Here's another one.

looks great! what are your garage dimensions?

I'm thinking about a 15x27 or 15x30 now. Assuming you lose about a foot with framing and drywall that would put usable space to about 14x26 or 14x29. I'm also thinking I want to do a scissor style truss so I can maximize height in the center of the garage.

I found measurements for the Z online today. Based on what I see the car is about 6'x14'. Assuming the above measurements I should have about 3.5' on each side of the car and about 12'-15' feet at the front and rear to play with. Assuming another 2' for a work bench and storage at the head of the garage I should have plenty of work space all around the car.

Wiggins, one thing to make sure that is in the budget is to make sure to have an insulated garage door. Here in Austin Tx. with the weather, temps can get as high as 105*plus and that is not factoring in the humidity and can get below the freezing mark. On days when it is hot, I close the door and open the door to the house and put my fan to pull out cool air from the house. In about 10 minutes the garage is as cool as the house is and do the same in the winter when it is very cold outside. So make this a must, you won't regret it. :tup:

:iagree:

I replaced my garage door a year ago in January. The new insulated garage door keeps the garage at least 10-15F cooler during the summer than sheet metal garage door I had previously. In OH you may find the insulating benefits more useful in the winter to help keep heat in.

You can get insulating panels to add to a regular door instead of buying the insulated door.

:iagree::iagree: I have done this to mine (DIY) but if your spending the money, and have some available, I would just by a proper finished one will look cleaner on the inside.

Im leaning heavily towards 15x27 with 9' ceilings. I would prefer 10' or even scissor trusses to give me added space above, but im trying to keep it in a budget. The MaxJax says it'll work fine with 8' ceilings, so I hope ill be ok.

What does everyone think about some LED recessed lights in the ceiling instead of the stereotypical hanging fixtures? Do you think they will provide enough lighting?

If it's in the budget, go LED. Not only will they be brighter but you will save money in the long run. Just remember, you can never have to much light in the garage.

I'm an architectural designer. ( I draw plans for a living. ) PM me if you need drawings for your garages for the building department.

One thing I learned when doing mine was about the shear wall. I'm sure the codes are similar in Ohio as to Indiana, but you have to have a certain % of the door wall a solid wall vs. doors. Since I was going with 2 doors, I ended up having to go with narrow doors and put a lot of space between them for the shear wall. The Z goes in fine, but on my Ridgeline, I've got about 1/2" clearance on each side of the opening for the mirrors. Just something to keep in mind.

I did have the option of going narrower on the wall between the doors, but it involved a lot of steel, extra thick concrete, and a whole bunch of money.

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