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Mobil 1 extended service oil

Originally Posted by Darwins Child ... For a summer-only, low-km vehicle, this is patently ridiculous for some very good reasons. ... I'm curious as to what those reasons are. As

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Old 04-25-2016, 12:04 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Darwins Child View Post
... For a summer-only, low-km vehicle, this is patently ridiculous for some very good reasons. ...
I'm curious as to what those reasons are.

As has been mentioned before, for your circumstances, it's not usually dirt or oil degradation that is the problem, it's the acids and other crap that get in your oil. Need to flush that stuff out on a regular basis.
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:09 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mishuko View Post
good luck with the stealership.

oil doesn't 'go bad' but it's up to you how you want to store your car. I swap the oil before storage. after storage I drive a few hundred clicks then swap the oil.

I change my oil every 5k km. although I'm doing one at 3k before my road trip.
It's no longer a question of oils or storage. It's the question of what procedure the owner has to follow, and prove with receipts, in order to maintain Nissan's warranty. To me, this means dated receipts for filter and oil as proof that the oil was at least purchased on specific dates. Although these do not provide proof that the old oil and filter were replaced with new, they are strong evidence that it was. After all, what will one do with a collection of new jugs of oil and new filters other than use them?
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:15 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
I'm curious as to what those reasons are.
..........
I just spelled them out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
..........
As has been mentioned before, for your circumstances, it's not usually dirt or oil degradation that is the problem, it's the acids and other crap that get in your oil. Need to flush that stuff out on a regular basis.
What "acids and other crap" get into the new oil after draining the old oil, putting in the new oil and then not starting the vehicle for 6 or more months?
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:17 PM   #19 (permalink)
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If you're worried about changing your own damn oil and having Nissan break out of warranty if something arises, you may want to get a freaking honda Odyssey. Changing any fluids regardless of leasing or buying won't have any bearing on warranty work for the most part. Any dealership doesn't give a shyt what you use as long as it's 5w-30 or whatever. They care about mileage, breaks, tires, and cosmetics. If you're paranoid, write down the damn mileage change logs in the maintenance book and hot glue the damn receipts to the back of it.

If anyone is dumb enough to change the oil, forgot to screw the drain bolt back on, drive for 5k miles, wonder why the engine sounds funny, and then bitches at the dealership afterwards. Just...wow......

Paging Dr. kernchan. Leon is having a stroke. Anyone else smell toast?
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Old 04-25-2016, 12:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Leingod View Post
If you're worried about changing your own damn oil and having Nissan break out of warranty if something arises, you may want to get a freaking honda Odyssey. Changing any fluids regardless of leasing or buying won't have any bearing on warranty work for the most part. Any dealership doesn't give a shyt what you use as long as it's 5w-30 or whatever. They care about mileage, breaks, tires, and cosmetics. If you're paranoid, write down the damn mileage change logs in the maintenance book and hot glue the damn receipts to the back of it.

If anyone is dumb enough to change the oil, forgot to screw the drain bolt back on, drive for 5k miles, wonder why the engine sounds funny, and then bitches at the dealership afterwards. Just...wow......

Paging Dr. kernchan. Leon is having a stroke. Anyone else smell toast?
I use a stapler.
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:09 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwins Child View Post
I just spelled them out.
You did a piss-poor job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwins Child View Post
What "acids and other crap" get into the new oil after draining the old oil, putting in the new oil and then not starting the vehicle for 6 or more months?
Unless you are cleaning/flushing the engine before putting in the new oil, it's the same crap that was there before you did the oil change. It will be less concentrated than before the change, but still there.
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:57 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z View Post
...........
Unless you are cleaning/flushing the engine before putting in the new oil, it's the same crap that was there before you did the oil change. It will be less concentrated than before the change, but still there.
I believe that draining old oil that has been warmed up shortly before draining, and then allowed to drain for a good long time, removes all but a very few drops of that contaminated oil from the engine. Removing the old filter completes the process.

I have to start the engine to move the vehicle from its position in our garage where I change the oil to its position in the same garage where it will be stored for the winter - a move of about 5 feet parallel to the east. After adding the new oil, the engine will run for perhaps 2 minutes to make that move and this will be enough time for the new oil to be circulated within the engine, wetting all its oiled parts and rinsing off into the oil pan any old oil still clinging to those parts.

IMO, this new oil in the engine after this 2 minutes of running will be no different than the new oil in the engine after any oil change performed at any other time under any circumstance. That is, after draining old oil, most people don't normally flush the engine with new oil, drain that, then refill with new oil and filter. The oil change before storage be no different.

The few drops of old oil remaining in the new oil can sit there in the new oil, as it always does. The only difference this time will be that the engine will sit for several months before going into normal operation again. The internals of the engine, having had all old oil rinsed off, will not be exposed to the normal contamination process, or the miles, that usually ensue after most oil changes.
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:12 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwins Child View Post
We'll put closer to 3000 km (well under 2000 miles) our summer-only vehicle here in our sometimes-seven-months-of-winter climate. That's why I'm interested in a perhaps 3-year oil-change interval rather than annual.
im sure darwin will take care of his child ..
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:33 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Darwins Child View Post
I believe that draining old oil that has been warmed up shortly before draining, and then allowed to drain for a good long time, removes all but a very few drops of that contaminated oil from the engine. Removing the old filter completes the process.
Modern oils have additives to make them "stickier" - they leave a film on everything.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwins Child View Post
I have to start the engine to move the vehicle from its position in our garage where I change the oil to its position in the same garage where it will be stored for the winter - a move of about 5 feet parallel to the east. After adding the new oil, the engine will run for perhaps 2 minutes to make that move and this will be enough time for the new oil to be circulated within the engine, wetting all its oiled parts and rinsing off into the oil pan any old oil still clinging to those parts.
You are not rinsing, you are diluting. Nothing gets moved to the pan, it's all mixed together.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwins Child View Post
IMO, this new oil in the engine after this 2 minutes of running will be no different than the new oil in the engine after any oil change performed at any other time under any circumstance. That is, after draining old oil, most people don't normally flush the engine with new oil, drain that, then refill with new oil and filter. The oil change before storage be no different.
Exactly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwins Child View Post
The few drops of old oil remaining in the new oil can sit there in the new oil, as it always does. The only difference this time will be that the engine will sit for several months before going into normal operation again. The internals of the engine, having had all old oil rinsed off, will not be exposed to the normal contamination process, or the miles, that usually ensue after most oil changes.
While doing a change will greatly reduce the amount of contaminants, it's more than just a few drops of "bad" oil remaining in the crankcase after draining.

Change your oil (at least) twice a year.
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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What makes you you think a 2-year oil change interval is ok when Nissan recommends 6 months minimum?

Tell you what OP ... wait two years and then send off a sample of your oil to Blackstone Labs for an oil analysis and see what they have to say about the matter
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Old 04-25-2016, 06:46 PM   #26 (permalink)
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DC, honestly the cheapest maintenance and insurance to keep your Z running well is an oil change. DO NOT wait 2 years for an oil change.
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:48 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I think some commenters need an update for our 3K km per driving season Z.

I hate quoting myself, but I already conceded defeat on the two-year interval in my post #13 earlier in this thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwins Child View Post
Thanks for the advice.

Although I think that changing oil every two years with the extended-service oil would be fine, as I have in all my vehicles of the past, I'll continue to be overcautious and change oil once per year. For our summer-only Z, this will be at the end of the last ride of the driving season with regular-service Mobil 1.

Thanks again.
Then, a few posts later, the logic of a 1-year change for a summer-only vehicle:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darwins Child View Post
You know, I wasn't sure what Nissan's official "regular service" interval was, so last night I checked the maintenance manual in the glove box and, sure enough, 8K km (5K miles), or 6 months, whichever comes first.

For a summer-only, low-km vehicle, this is patently ridiculous for some very good reasons.

In Edmonton the winter's are normally at least 6 months long, and for summer-only Z drivers this means that the vehicle will not be operated for 6 months or more.

With the above in mind, let's say the owner attempts to not exceed the Nissan-mandated 6-month oil-change interval. So the owner changes the oil in say mid April and, in our case, after driving 3K km or so, 6 months later in mid October. Sounds very reasonable, right?

But what happens next April, after the car has been sitting all 6 months of winter? Just to satisfy Nissan's requirement, am I actually supposed to go out to buy (and get a dated receipt for) a new filter and new oil, then drain the "old" new oil out of the vehicle, trash the "old" new oil filter, then screw on the new new oil filter and pour in some more new new oil?


Again, for summer-only Z drivers, and there must be millions of them, Nissan's requirement is ridiculous and should be fought. IMO, the oil change requirements for mileage might remain the same, but the time interval must be changed to 1 year. That is, 8K km (5K miles) or 12 months, whichever comes first.

I'll be heading to the local Nissan dealer to buy an oil filter in the next day or two. I'll discuss the matter with the service manager and report back what he has to say. I can't believe that he's going to stand there with a straight face and tell me that it is necessary for Edmonton's summer-only, low-km Z owners to go through that ridiculous, wasteful procedure.
If contamination of the new oil during the winter in which the car is not operated is of concern, one could in the fall drain the old oil for a few days, remove the old filter and install the new filter and plug Then just wait until the beginning of the driving season to remove the plug to drain any old oil that slowly dripped down over the months, reinstall the plug and pour in the new oil.
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Old 04-25-2016, 07:51 PM   #28 (permalink)
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In b4 the "Isn't it OK to run regular gas instead of the expensive gas?" thread.
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:03 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Old 04-25-2016, 08:21 PM   #30 (permalink)
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maybe 90ST can bring some sense to his fellow canadian..
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