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Originally Posted by mishuko I coast in 2nd, before I stop/stall I toss into neutral and then let my front in crash into the person infront of me so I

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Old 03-10-2016, 04:52 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mishuko View Post
I coast in 2nd, before I stop/stall I toss into neutral and then let my front in crash into the person infront of me so I come to an abrupt stop.
I try this in my wife's new subura with"eyesight" and it won't let me hit anything, very annoying, it also won't let me tailgate people who pull out in front of me and go slow, might as well get a self driving Google car and put a new ford movie screen windshield in...
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Old 03-10-2016, 05:45 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by gbrettin View Post
I do a combination of leaving the car in D and use my paddles when I'm flogging. My transmission is El Slippy after running 100hp of nitrous from 4th to 5th. I pretty much expected my transmission to break but it hasn't yet. I'm getting a Level 10 1000hp transmission, TQ converter, and valve body upgrade coming up next week (possible tomorrow). I'm looking forward to pairing the new L10 goodies with my AAG flexplate.

...

It's been a long winter of buying.
Your car is on a lift?
And your gears are slipping? Or not slipping? Lol
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:13 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I don't always use the manual mode, but when I do I prefer the paddles.

Majority of time in "D", but when I want to increase my level of fun ...

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well, doesn't "paddles" say it all?
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:44 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Uprev has a map for the 7at.. When I got tuned , the tuner said the file was called "torque conversion"..

What it did do is cut the lag from using paddles/shifter when in manual. There is literally no lag between shifting gears (where as stock tune there is a little bit).

This makes for a bumpier ride if shifting conservatively at low rpms.. but holy @#$@# if you shift at 5-7k rpm.. the car just jumps forward.

I recommend it to anyone with a 7at to have that done when getting tuned. My friend has a 7at without that shift lag modification..and there is a HUGE difference.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:09 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Uprev has a map for the 7at.. When I got tuned , the tuner said the file was called "torque conversion"..

What it did do is cut the lag from using paddles/shifter when in manual. There is literally no lag between shifting gears (where as stock tune there is a little bit).

This makes for a bumpier ride if shifting conservatively at low rpms.. but holy @#$@# if you shift at 5-7k rpm.. the car just jumps forward.

I recommend it to anyone with a 7at to have that done when getting tuned. My friend has a 7at without that shift lag modification..and there is a HUGE difference.

This helps a lot but if anyone does it only adjust the positive number. Don't touch the negatives, they only control drivability while coasting or calm driving. Level 10 has you set all the positive numbers to 75 for their bulletproof trans but that may be to much for a stock one.


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Old 03-10-2016, 07:10 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I had my tuner do the tranny as well when I got my car tuned. Mostly they eliminate the lag and up the line pressure for harder faster shifts
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:24 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Manual mode always!!
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:08 PM   #38 (permalink)
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I beat the living shi* out of mine everytime I drive it, and I'm always in manual mode..
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:00 PM   #39 (permalink)
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My Z Was manual, but my Genesis is paddle. The traffic is so bad here it takes 90 minutes to go 12 miles to work. Thinking of selling my house, everything and going off the grid Grizzly Adams style. What's "sport" mode. I don't see 20 mph.

Except on my road trips... Then my fun begins.
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:09 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Paddleshift all day long
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Old 03-10-2016, 10:25 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by FPenvy View Post
i have 51k miles on mine and only about 100 miles have been in auto.

i only drive in manual mode. also i do every downshift besides 2>1 because thats bad for the AT.


as i put above i let it shift from 2 to 1 because thats the best for the tranny. also isometimes when coming to a stop i'll let it drop 3-2-1 on its own.
i agree about the 2>1 downshift statement. not sure if it does, in fact, damage anything going from 2 to 1, but this is my first auto. all my previous cars, including my 07 350Z, have been manual, and typically, the gearbox locks/prevents from going from 2nd to 1st, unless you're coming to a stop. i much rather be safe than sorry and never go from 2nd to 1st.

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it is an awesome piece of the puzzle to making the Z great.

i am at 51k miles and my only "issues" to date are within a few months of buying it i guess coming up a hill in traffic the ECU/TCM didnt like something and tripped safe/limp mode. parked it, shut it off,waited 5-10 min, started back up 100% animal ready to go again.

bright side is that there are a lot of safety catches that will do their best to keep the car in one piece lol

only other "issue" is end of last driving season if i let the car drop itself from 3 to 2 there was a slight "Clunk". did the fluid change and whatnot still slightly there.

HOWEVER after it sat all winter i drove it finally monday-wed. and it's all gone which leads me to believe that was a TCM/ECU error not mechanical.
this happens once in a while. it's like an abrupt clunk and you're like
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Old 03-11-2016, 09:03 AM   #42 (permalink)
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this happens once in a while. it's like an abrupt clunk and you're like
mine was doing it any and every time i let the car downshift itself from 3 to 2 when warm it clunked.

however when cold it didnt do it so i thought at first that my tranny fluid lost it's viscosity but even after the fluid swap it still happened.

but now after a few months in the garage i think the Z is behaving so it doesnt get put away again lol
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