It's just about as easy to click the shifter over to manual and select the gear you want for engine braking and then you don't have to worry about errant upshifts!

:iagree:


i only use manual mode on mine. :tup:

a friend of mine here in Northern California has a 7 speed automatic and as
well only drives it in the manual mode :driving:

He drives it like a animal and at 100,000 miles with zero issues on the transmission :tup:

Amazing how well built a 7 speed automatic transmission is :iagree:

-Clifford :tiphat:

it is an awesome piece of the puzzle to making the Z great.

i am at 51k miles and my only "issues" to date are within a few months of buying it i guess coming up a hill in traffic the ECU/TCM didnt like something and tripped safe/limp mode. parked it, shut it off,waited 5-10 min, started back up 100% animal ready to go again.

bright side is that there are a lot of safety catches that will do their best to keep the car in one piece lol

only other "issue" is end of last driving season if i let the car drop itself from 3 to 2 there was a slight "Clunk". did the fluid change and whatnot still slightly there.

HOWEVER after it sat all winter i drove it finally monday-wed. and it's all gone which leads me to believe that was a TCM/ECU error not mechanical.

... I don't think so...

If you're going to hammer it to overtake, flooring the pedal will give you the quickest change from whatever gear you're in to the lowest gear possible.

If you're shifting down to prepare for the overtake mentioned above, I personally move the shifter over and downshift in anticipation...

Partially this ^ (bold)


any more ddetails to the bold italics tho? 4500 is cheap af. I'm assuming it's an aftermarket tranny?

I disagree with 2->1 statement.

And Level 10 makes a transmission that will hold the power. They don't offer a flex plate though.


And the more research I do, they scare me... A LOT of horror stories.

yea i forgot to add in that along with the tranny cost you'll need to pick up a flex plate. i believe fast intentions is $850+shipping.

level10 has 2 options.

700hp - $4600
1000hp - $5600

thats without a core charge i believe so you get a whole brand new fully built tranny. i think you get like $1k off the price if you send yours in.

also every tech and person i've talked to said downshifting from 2nd to 1st isnt ideal for the AT. play all you want just let the ECU do the 2-1 drop when coming to a stop.

I coast in 2nd, before I stop/stall I toss into neutral and then let my front in crash into the person infront of me so I come to an abrupt stop.

You don't want to waste brakes, those things are expensive.

OK, now do you use ...
The console more
Or the paddles more?
I seem to prefer the console shifter a bit more

daily driving = stick
any racing/aggresive driving = paddles

If you are in Drive at highway speeds (6 or 7), switching to M will put you in 5th. I use this all the time for passing slowpokes.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Mostly manual mode and i use the paddles. I feel slower and lethargic when i drive in D on the street and canyons

I do a combination of leaving the car in D and use my paddles when I'm flogging. My transmission is El Slippy after running 100hp of nitrous from 4th to 5th. I pretty much expected my transmission to break but it hasn't yet. I'm getting a Level 10 1000hp transmission, TQ converter, and valve body upgrade coming up next week (possible tomorrow). I'm looking forward to pairing the new L10 goodies with my AAG flexplate.

...

It's been a long winter of buying.