5 Things you shouldnt do in a manual car

Dirk McGurck

I almost had you bro!

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2009 370Z Touring with Sport

JARblue

Agreed. I'm fully aware of the wear I'm causing on the car when I do any of those things.

I have done all of these things in the Z. Even on my 10 mile drive into work this morning I found myself doing most of them at one point or another. But I don't do any of them constantly. My worst offense is probably my size 12 steel toed boots pushing into the dead space at the top of my pedal throw. Which like you said, is nowhere near engaging the clutch.

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JARblue

I also found one other thing funny, specifically because he did the video in a 370Z

He mentions not holding the clutch pedal down while stopped. But I am 99% certain that more pedal throws will equate to quicker failure of the OEM CSC. Now, it's likely the amount of force applied (i.e. how far in you push the pedal) has a lot to do with how quickly it fails, so holding the clutch firmly pressed to the floorboard while stopped is probably still worse. But if you make sure to hold the clutch just barely disengage while stopped, I bet that is easier on the slave than extra use of the pedal.

Or you can just dump the OEM CSC for Z1 or ZSpeed alternatives

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AV8rZ

I'm teaching my wife how to "drive a stick" in my Z and every one of these bad habits so the clutch will go. Won't be any arguing about needing a new clutch. Then I can throw in the "while they're in there might as well put the turbos on to save a little bit" comment

Tigger

Oooh! Let's debate this for a moment.

Holding the clutch pedal down while stopped really isn't a good idea because, like you said, it'll affect the CSC. But if you are in stop and go traffic and have no choice in the matter, either be fully disengaged or fully engaged. No riding the clutch. Your CSC and throw-out bearing won't like you much but they are designed to do a job and like all parts they are designed to fail. Lots of stop and go = more maintenance. End of story. But being fully disengaged when shifting or idling (in stop and go) is paramount and this is where we differ in view. If you are just mostly disengaged then your clutch can still contact the flywheel and wear in a not-so-good way. On the other hand, if you are just barely touching the pedal then you may likely be just barely disengaging the clutch which means if you gas it real hard you may slip it.

All it really comes down to is this. The clutch itself is designed to be the primary wear item. Trying to get a clutch to last 200k miles is really pointless unless you are a serious A-B driver. If that is all you care about then yes, it is possible and many have done it. If you drive a sports car then your clutch will not last 100k if you actually drive it with any serious amount of aggression. I love the comments by those that claim they do 1/4 mile runs all the time and they have 150k on the stock clutch. Sorry but your interweb claims are ********. Don't ******* lie to me.

So use the clutch. Slip the clutch when appropriate and when you need to but just don't burn/score the flywheel. It was designed to take the impact off the driveline. People that are 'instant-in, instant-out' are really doing more damage to the transmission and all the other components. Oh sure, you'll get 200k out of your clutch but you are going for a transmission overhaul at 70k. Have fun with that ****.

mishuko

oh you need a new clutch?

might as well get turbos while you're doing the tranny



uhh i drive the sports car hard when i can... and i do get fairly fast in the in/out but i doubt anyone here is dumping the clutch on every shift. or maybe those who are blowing their csc's in 5k miles

but as for the stop and go... when i DD i actually get it into first and i'll let it lurch come to almost stall before clutching... would that be harder on the clutch/transmission/engine than just putting it into neutral and then engage 10 feet then disengage? hmmm

Tigger

If I'm lucky and the cars are moving somewhat steadily I can gas it up to 5mph and then take my feet off everything and it'll maintain 5mph without wanting to stall. I tend to think of it as a feature.

mishuko

I'm not sure if anyone else gets this but as it drops in rpm from 1.5 it kinda has a bit of a hiccup. almost like a stall but not? I dunno how to explain it other than hiccup.


but yea... the low rpm idle/coast is nice. i end up not using the brake and just coast as long as i can until a full stop

MB370Z

You know what? This will decimate all, after, you put about fifteen grand in it or more. If we have to, overnight parts from Japan.

kenchan

u talking about the fuel cut-off? i use dat hiccup to disenage the gear without using the clutch. i do this on all my MT's.

mishuko

is that what it is? i thought it was an issue and would be solved with a tune!

ah my life is solved.

kenchan

if ure talking about the little bump u feel from the drivetrain while approaching a stop while in gear, its normal. just use that to get out of watever gear u were in.

JARblue

I drive the Z with plenty of aggression. But that doesn't have to be hard on the clutch. I rarely launch or have need to slip the clutch. I should be able to easily get 100K out of the stock clutch. Driving on the street.

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kenchan

i dont think my z will ever reach 100k... im still at 18k+ 6yrs in.

Tigger

And I agree with you to a point. It certainly doesn't have to be hard on a clutch. And some cars will burn a clutch quicker than others. Average clutch life on a 911 is 60k. Certain high-end cars is 10k but of course that is on a completely different level but it still proves a point. Not sure if there is an average yet for the 370 but I imagine 70k will be pushing it for the "aggressive" driver.

But I still say if you 100k then you've been granny shiftin' that bitch way too much.