Out of the Frying Pan....

dant1127 · 11-04-2015, 10:55 AM

So, after a grueling 3.5 months, I got my Z back!! A few kinks to work out from the wreck still (door rattle, damaged seat heater, small stuff) but I couldn't be happier to give that Corolla back.

Nor for the fun part... I need a new transmission! Synchros were worn when I bought it, and my extended warranty is going to cover a new transmission (as well as most of the labor for the parts listed below.) Since the tranny will be out, I might as well do a few upgrades. Wanted some advice from my fellow Z owners to make sure I'm not forgetting something important...

I don't track my car at all, but I do drive it hard. Has 54k on it. I hate my stock "clutch" (or on-off pedal,) and the stock flywheel takes FOREVER to wind down. I'm aiming to have a clutch I can actually manage in traffic, while allowing to shift smoothly and prolong the seemingly inevitable destruction of my 5th and 6th gear synchros on my new transmission. So, what I'm thinking...

RJM Clutch Pedal
South Bend DXD Steel Flywheel
(Lighter than stock, still DD manageable)
South Bend Stage 2 Daily Kit w/ Quiet Disk
(can't seem to find reviews on stage 1, but everyone with stage 2 daily seems to love it)
Stainless clutch line
Z1 CSC Eliminator
New Master Cylinder w/ Motul
Z1 Poly Trans Mount (eliminate sloppy gear engagement)

While I'm at it, figured I'd throw on an oil cooler.
Z1 kit; 25 row Setrab, thermal plate, wrapped lines

Not planning on doing any engine mods besides maybe intake/exhaust.

I'm hoping that these parts will let me enjoy my DD a bit more while also protecting it in the long run. Anything important that I'm missing?

enguyen88 · 11-04-2015, 11:53 AM

Your car must have been beaten on if the synchros are worn already.

birdman71 · 11-04-2015, 12:08 PM

All of that looks good but take out that Southbend and throw a Spec Stage 2+ (for daily like the southebend just better quality, mine is a Stage 3 not Stage 2+ and has lasted almost 55k so far) or throw a Cusco or an OsGiken Clutch in there.

As for the oil cooler I recommened the Mishimoto 19 row thermostatic oil cooler. My Z use to average 220F and maybe has grazed 200F when I been pushing and should be up in the 230F range when it was without the oil cooler.

And the CSC eliminator, is more for people who track the car a bunch because it is lightweight. If you want that go ahead but installation probably will be longer since its not a drop and replace like normal.
If you want something that's not an OEM csc go with an HDCSC.

JARblue · 11-04-2015, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by enguyen88

Your car must have been beaten on if the synchros are worn already.

Actually the its not uncommon for the synchros to go bad early. My 5th and 6th gear synchros started grinding under normal shifting around 20K miles

dant1127 · 11-04-2015, 01:26 PM

I'm pretty sure my car was tracked by the last owner, or at least driven extremely hard. But I've read a few other 350/370 owners with synchro issues with no reason.

I have no scientific evidence to back it up, but my hunch is that the poor quality of our CSCs cause enough clutch slippage over time to prematurely wear our synchros.

The reason for the CSC delete is pretty obvious if you read thru the forum...... even brand new Zs off the lot can experience a failed CSC. I'd much rather have an external, those are DIY. Also, I wasn't aware that the CSC eliminator was used to eliminate weight..

JARblue · 11-04-2015, 01:32 PM

I went with the Z1 CSC Elimination Kit because I don't want to ever have to drop the transmission again to mess with clutch hydraulic problems

I also recently worked on a later model 350Z that had the revised external slave cylinder since the internal one was failing so much on the earlier 350Z. This is the basis that Z1 used for their design for the 370Z kit. Why did Nissan chose to go back to the internal CSC for the 370Z? The almighty dollar, most likely

kenchan · 11-04-2015, 01:40 PM

i noticed after reving high if i clutch-in quickly the pedal takes a moment to come back out. this does not happen on my G which uses the external slave cylinder.

i think the premature csc wear happens to those clutching-in too quickly after high rev.
even through the excitement, i think one needs to play it cool on the 370Z and go gentle during clutch-in even if one dumps it into the next gear going WOT.

mishuko · 11-04-2015, 02:27 PM

OP i drive mine to DT toronto and back to the suburbs on frequent occasions. i've done it in sun, rain, hail and flurries. the only time i had problems was the first few drives in. was pretty hard. stalled maybe twice doing the DD. once on an uphill. once on a downhill. don't ask about the later one.

it's actually easily managable. i did find removing the helper spring made it a lot easier to tell. but is a very high on/off. my buddies don't believe me when i say i have like 1cm between engaged and full clutch and then about 6'' of travel to the bottom. lol they wouldn't know coming from civics/sti's.

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

i noticed after reving high if i clutch-in quickly the pedal takes a moment to come back out. this does not happen on my G which uses the external slave cylinder.

i think the premature csc wear happens to those clutching-in too quickly after high rev.
even through the excitement, i think one needs to play it cool on the 370Z and go gentle during clutch-in even if one dumps it into the next gear going WOT.

interesting hypothesis on the csc wearing. i notice that the clutch plates shudder a bit when you're revving hard and push the pedal a bit too enthusiastically.

usually i'm just gentle.

2011 Nismo#91 · 11-04-2015, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dant1127

( Click to show/hide )

That's pretty much the exact setup I have/planning for.
The only exceptions to mine being the pedal and mount not being included.
I was going to go with an OS Giken setup but they are way pricey. I was recommended the South Bend because I do a lot of stop and go traffic on steep hills and I can't have an ON/OFF clutch and need something that can be slipped a bit.

I would say for your new transmission using a non Nissan fluid. I am using MT-85/90 and it feels so much better.

Chuck33079 · 11-04-2015, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by birdman71

All of that looks good but take out that Southbend and throw a Spec Stage 2+ (for daily like the southebend just better quality, mine is a Stage 3 not Stage 2+ and has lasted almost 55k so far) or throw a Cusco or an OsGiken Clutch in there.

As for the oil cooler I recommened the Mishimoto 19 row thermostatic oil cooler. My Z use to average 220F and maybe has grazed 200F when I been pushing and should be up in the 230F range when it was without the oil cooler.

And the CSC eliminator, is more for people who track the car a bunch because it is lightweight. If you want that go ahead but installation probably will be longer since its not a drop and replace like normal.

If you want something that's not an OEM csc go with an HDCSC.

Stay far, far away from spec. There is no warranty on the Hd csc with a spec because they will cause it to fail. Ask me how I know that.

And mishimoto is the worst possible choice for an oil cooler. Don't buy Chinese garbage. Do it right the first time.

2011 Nismo#91 · 11-04-2015, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Stay far, far away from spec. There is no warranty on the Hd csc with a spec because they will cause it to fail. Ask me how I know that.

And mishimoto is the worst possible choice for an oil cooler. Don't buy Chinese garbage. Do it right the first time.

I wasn't going to say it but yeah, that's absolutely right. I would/did use Setrab oil cooler.

birdman71 · 11-04-2015, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Stay far, far away from spec. There is no warranty on the Hd csc with a spec because they will cause it to fail. Ask me how I know that.

And mishimoto is the worst possible choice for an oil cooler. Don't buy Chinese garbage. Do it right the first time.

Haven't had any problems at all with an HDCSC and a Spec Stage 3 clutch. Not only that its been a good clutch to me anyway.
As for the oil cooler I haven't had it long enough to have issues with it yet. All I know is that it does what its supposed to do, cool my oil.

Plus if OP is going to do the Elimination kit then it doesn't matter if they go with Spec. Just because you had a bad experience with not having a warranty on a combination fail with the HDCSC and the clutch doesn't mean its a bad product or doesn't work. Because it hasn't failed on me yet. and I'll be having to change to clutch soon anyhow due to normal wear and tear before the HDCSC ever had a chance to fail.

Good to know your opinion, and your opinion on where my hard earned money went, "garbage". I work hard for the things I can afford and would like not for it to be trashed just because of your experience, even though I respect your opinion. People have different experiences with different products. No two products are ever exactly the same.

Thanks

Chuck33079 · 11-04-2015, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by birdman71

Haven't had any problems at all with an HDCSC and a Spec Stage 3 clutch. Not only that its been a good clutch to me anyway.

As for the oil cooler I haven't had it long enough to have issues with it yet. All I know is that it does what its supposed to do, cool my oil.

Plus if OP is going to do the Elimination kit then it doesn't matter if they go with Spec. Just because you had a bad experience with not having a warranty on a combination fail with the HDCSC and the clutch doesn't mean its a bad product or doesn't work. Because it hasn't failed on me yet. and I'll be having to change to clutch soon anyhow due to normal wear and tear before the HDCSC ever had a chance to fail.

Good to know your opinion, and your opinion on where my hard earned money went, "garbage". I work hard for the things I can afford and would like not for it to be trashed just because of your experience, even though I respect your opinion. People have different experiences with different products. No two products are ever exactly the same.

Thanks

Just trying to help the op not make the same mistakes you did. Care for a midol? Not a shock that you're sticking up for other crap companies given how much you stuck up for gtm/gamma.

birdman71 · 11-05-2015, 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Just trying to help the op not make the same mistakes you did. Care for a midol? Not a shock that you're sticking up for other crap companies given how much you stuck up for gtm/gamma.

Just cause of your experience doesn't mean they're a crap company, no matter what you say lol. There's a reason why its called an opinion.
wasn't really sticking up for them. I was in the mutual with bullitt. I understood the fact behind everyone wanting their crap but also understood the fact, of which everyone seemed to ignore, that legally they weren't responsible for Sam at the time that he did his dirty deeds.

waste of time right here lol

njobe89 · 11-05-2015, 02:13 PM

11-04-2015, 10:55 AM	#1 (permalink)
dant1127 Base Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: US Posts: 110 Drives: NA Rep Power: 11	Out of the Frying Pan.... So, after a grueling 3.5 months, I got my Z back!! A few kinks to work out from the wreck still (door rattle, damaged seat heater, small stuff) but I couldn't be happier to give that Corolla back. Nor for the fun part... I need a new transmission! Synchros were worn when I bought it, and my extended warranty is going to cover a new transmission (as well as most of the labor for the parts listed below.) Since the tranny will be out, I might as well do a few upgrades. Wanted some advice from my fellow Z owners to make sure I'm not forgetting something important... I don't track my car at all, but I do drive it hard. Has 54k on it. I hate my stock "clutch" (or on-off pedal,) and the stock flywheel takes FOREVER to wind down. I'm aiming to have a clutch I can actually manage in traffic, while allowing to shift smoothly and prolong the seemingly inevitable destruction of my 5th and 6th gear synchros on my new transmission. So, what I'm thinking... RJM Clutch Pedal South Bend DXD Steel Flywheel (Lighter than stock, still DD manageable) South Bend Stage 2 Daily Kit w/ Quiet Disk (can't seem to find reviews on stage 1, but everyone with stage 2 daily seems to love it) Stainless clutch line Z1 CSC Eliminator New Master Cylinder w/ Motul Z1 Poly Trans Mount (eliminate sloppy gear engagement) While I'm at it, figured I'd throw on an oil cooler. Z1 kit; 25 row Setrab, thermal plate, wrapped lines Not planning on doing any engine mods besides maybe intake/exhaust. I'm hoping that these parts will let me enjoy my DD a bit more while also protecting it in the long run. Anything important that I'm missing? 2011 Nismo#91 and birdman71 like this.

11-04-2015, 11:53 AM	#2 (permalink)
enguyen88 Base Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Sacramento Posts: 79 Drives: 2010 370z Silver 6mt Rep Power: 10	Your car must have been beaten on if the synchros are worn already. Last edited by enguyen88; 11-04-2015 at 11:58 AM.

11-04-2015, 12:08 PM	#3 (permalink)
birdman71 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Los Angeles, CA Posts: 1,579 Drives: People Crazy! Rep Power: 40	All of that looks good but take out that Southbend and throw a Spec Stage 2+ (for daily like the southebend just better quality, mine is a Stage 3 not Stage 2+ and has lasted almost 55k so far) or throw a Cusco or an OsGiken Clutch in there. As for the oil cooler I recommened the Mishimoto 19 row thermostatic oil cooler. My Z use to average 220F and maybe has grazed 200F when I been pushing and should be up in the 230F range when it was without the oil cooler. And the CSC eliminator, is more for people who track the car a bunch because it is lightweight. If you want that go ahead but installation probably will be longer since its not a drop and replace like normal. If you want something that's not an OEM csc go with an HDCSC. __________________ *Birdman's Build:* Powerhouse Amuse/ Nismo/ Eibach/ ACT/ Tommy Kaira/ Avant Garde/ Fast Intentions/ Project Kics/ Fly 1 Motorsports/ EVO-R/ Z1 Motorsports/ Weber Sports/ Zoom/ Zele Japan

11-04-2015, 01:32 PM	#6 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	I went with the Z1 CSC Elimination Kit because I don't want to ever have to drop the transmission again to mess with clutch hydraulic problems I also recently worked on a later model 350Z that had the revised external slave cylinder since the internal one was failing so much on the earlier 350Z. This is the basis that Z1 used for their design for the 370Z kit. Why did Nissan chose to go back to the internal CSC for the 370Z? The almighty dollar, most likely Streetlife, Ghostvette, dant1127 and 1 others like this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

11-04-2015, 01:40 PM	#7 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141521	i noticed after reving high if i clutch-in quickly the pedal takes a moment to come back out. this does not happen on my G which uses the external slave cylinder. i think the premature csc wear happens to those clutching-in too quickly after high rev. even through the excitement, i think one needs to play it cool on the 370Z and go gentle during clutch-in even if one dumps it into the next gear going WOT. 2011 Nismo#91 likes this.

11-04-2015, 01:26 PM	#5 (permalink)
dant1127 Base Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: US Posts: 110 Drives: NA Rep Power: 11	I'm pretty sure my car was tracked by the last owner, or at least driven extremely hard. But I've read a few other 350/370 owners with synchro issues with no reason. I have no scientific evidence to back it up, but my hunch is that the poor quality of our CSCs cause enough clutch slippage over time to prematurely wear our synchros. The reason for the CSC delete is pretty obvious if you read thru the forum...... even brand new Zs off the lot can experience a failed CSC. I'd much rather have an external, those are DIY. Also, I wasn't aware that the CSC eliminator was used to eliminate weight..

11-05-2015, 02:13 PM	#15 (permalink)
njobe89 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2014 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 5,227 Drives: 2013 370z BS 6MT Rep Power: 174284	Dirk McGurck likes this. __________________ 2 plus 2 times 2 = ? ... hint, it's not 8 Stillen CBE, Stillen Gen 3, TP's, Uprev tuned - 324whp/264tq