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and the underdrive pulley is an absolute pain to install to gain minimal power. long tube intakes, tp, cat back. should get you to 315~whp with a tune. obviously number depending on location, tuner, etc... |
Just FYI I'm married with one kid, so you can make it work. remember tthat your eexhaust will be really stinky with test pipes, coming to a stop with Windows down is not fun
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don't mind it. because racecar. :tiphat: |
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in my opinion the biggest waste of money and time are headers... cost a pretty penny and takes forever to install for a few whp. not worth it in my opinion, but that's just me.
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in that case OP keep it stock. if you wont own it in a year then any money spent is a waste. car doesn't typically sell for more just because of aftermarket bits unless they are top of the line and extensive. even then you get pennies on the dollar in the return. |
no one wants your 'project' car
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does it kraut at the stops? :bowrofl: |
For max power and minimal rasp you will want resonated test pipes, ideally with long, L or J shaped bung extenders for the secondary O2's.
You may still require a tune to turn off the associated CEL if the ECU sees the primary and secondary O2's matching voltage change rates too closely. Really, any set will do. If you don't care about rasp or rattle (it is bad, tho'), a set of unresonated TP's from ebay will serve just fine. That said, if you get TP's, I would consider investing in a tune anyway to improve throttle response, clean up AFR's, and bump up ignition advance. Or, if you have the coin and either the tools or a shop willing to do it, skip the TP's and go for Long tube headers (and a tune). I recommend PPE. |
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