replace CSC early or let it fail one day?

90 ST · 05-17-2015, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4TthAnnyZ

I'm sure there's plenty of people who have had 0 issues thus far (myself included at 53k) It only seems like everybody does because those that do, come here seeking advice and/or to rant about it.

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I didn't have problems with mine until well over 100,000, but it did go. And a few times after that, I had one go after 4,000. It's all random. IMO

kenchan · 05-17-2015, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90 ST

Yeah, but you only put on 100 miles a year, so the G only has 1100 miles...not a good point of reference.

point taken!

RonRizz · 05-17-2015, 08:40 PM

Better yet, what if you remove factory csc that's working perfectly, Replace with aftermarket, and THAT ONE Fails?? Wouldn't that blow your mind? Would you put the factory back in??

Ardent_Z · 05-18-2015, 08:40 AM

Has anyone used the Z1 CSC elimination kit? Does it change the clutch feel significantly?

SouthArk370Z · 05-18-2015, 08:46 AM

IMNSHO, it depends on what you use your car for. If it's a DD that rarely gets far from a tow truck, I'd wait until it fails. If you do a lot of driving out in the boonies, I'd do a proactive replacement. YMMV

SurfDog · 05-18-2015, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ardent_Z

Has anyone used the Z1 CSC elimination kit? Does it change the clutch feel significantly?

I looked at that but as I have the z speed CSC already it's just a curiosity.

kenchan · 05-18-2015, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RonRizz

Better yet, what if you remove factory csc that's working perfectly, Replace with aftermarket, and THAT ONE Fails?? Wouldn't that blow your mind? Would you put the factory back in??

this type of thinking is not healthy!

Haboob · 05-18-2015, 02:49 PM

I'm constantly worried about it happening, but I can't go throw down the cash for a replacement part that I may or may not need.

Catch-22 almost.

steve216 · 05-18-2015, 04:39 PM

well since I drive about 100 miles a day I made up my mind to just buy the replacement. I seen a deal a while back on a csc, clutch, and fly from some website but I cant seem to find now. Any good combo recommendation? I DD this care and maybe track it like 1 day a year if that nothing serious.

Nader Og · 05-18-2015, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RonRizz

Better yet, what if you remove factory csc that's working perfectly, Replace with aftermarket, and THAT ONE Fails?? Wouldn't that blow your mind? Would you put the factory back in??

I would go insane.

POS VETT · 05-18-2015, 11:05 PM

It's a gamble, but I wouldn't put too much into it. Without statistical data and analysis, it truly is a speculation at what mileage that it would fail.

The car is still drivable in medium to no traffic without a clutch. The Synchro Rev Match would make it easier, but it can be done without. It's called, strangely, rev matching. Hard to do in a very heavy to stop-n-go traffic and the route needs to be well-planned to lessen the number of stops. Shifting should be minimized to avoid the chance of wearing the synchronizers too much.

So, basically, when stopped, engine must be turned off. Put the shifter in 1st and start the engine; the car will jerk while the starter is cranking and the engine firing up. Bring engine speed a bit high, around 4-5k, then relax the throttle (do not lift completely) before moving the shifter to Neutral. Zero throttle while shifter is in neutral.

Next gear, I would pick 3rd to minimize shifting, would be engaged while the engine speed is on the way down or, if the Sport mode is engaged, the Synchro Rev Match will put the engine at the correct speed. Slide the shifter into the next gear, there should be little to no resistance when the engine speed and the vehicle speed are matched for that gear. If a downshift is required, slide the shifter into neutral, blip the throttle (or Synchro Rev Match would do it) while gently resting the shifter at the gate of a gear; once revs are matched, the shifter will slide into gear.

When a stop is imminent, reduce speed accordingly in gear. Once engine speed is low enough (I use 1.5k rpm or lower), slide the shifter into neutral, and continue braking. Once in a complete stop, turn off engine. To start, repeat the process from the top.

Stop signs are tricky and they can be two handfuls, literally. Watch traffic closely, be a defensive driver while doing this, and absolutely anticipate every and any possible scenario. Adjust vehicle speed to minimize stops at traffic lights. Left-hand turns can be nerve racking, but it's doable. Use hazard lights and turn signals (hazard is always on whenever a turn signal isn't needed).

05-17-2015, 08:40 PM	#18 (permalink)
RonRizz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Pine grove, Pa Posts: 2,136 Drives: 2 feet, 3 pedals Rep Power: 6775	Better yet, what if you remove factory csc that's working perfectly, Replace with aftermarket, and THAT ONE Fails?? Wouldn't that blow your mind? Would you put the factory back in?? kenchan likes this. __________________ P99rs Head Unit--- Amps- 2 Pioneer Prs800d --- Zapco ST1000MX---Zapco ST-4XSQ---- SI BM mk5 Subs---SI TM65v2 Midbass--- SI M3 mids--- SI M25 xbl2 tweeters ----- 2016 MECA street class 3rd place at world finals

05-18-2015, 08:46 AM	#20 (permalink)
SouthArk370Z Premium Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: South Arkansas Posts: 8,435 Drives: 2014 Challenger Rep Power: 324198	IMNSHO, it depends on what you use your car for. If it's a DD that rarely gets far from a tow truck, I'd wait until it fails. If you do a lot of driving out in the boonies, I'd do a proactive replacement. YMMV __________________ Steering Lock Links - Search The370Z Bookmarklet - FSM @ NICOclub Mankind has progressed past the need for war but we haven't evolved that far. - NachoMahma

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05-18-2015, 08:40 AM	#19 (permalink)
Ardent_Z Base Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Atlanta Posts: 58 Drives: '11 370, '08 Jeep Rep Power: 14	Has anyone used the Z1 CSC elimination kit? Does it change the clutch feel significantly?

05-18-2015, 02:49 PM	#23 (permalink)
Haboob A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Surface of the sun. Posts: 13,159 Drives: '18 GTI Autobahn DSG Rep Power: 1387	I'm constantly worried about it happening, but I can't go throw down the cash for a replacement part that I may or may not need. Catch-22 almost.

05-18-2015, 04:39 PM	#24 (permalink)
steve216 Base Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: PA Posts: 46 Drives: 11 Nissan 370z BS M6 Rep Power: 13	well since I drive about 100 miles a day I made up my mind to just buy the replacement. I seen a deal a while back on a csc, clutch, and fly from some website but I cant seem to find now. Any good combo recommendation? I DD this care and maybe track it like 1 day a year if that nothing serious.

05-18-2015, 11:05 PM	#26 (permalink)
POS VETT Track Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Columbus OH Posts: 612 Drives: Z34\|C4LT4\|C6Z06\|V25 Rep Power: 3366	It's a gamble, but I wouldn't put too much into it. Without statistical data and analysis, it truly is a speculation at what mileage that it would fail. The car is still drivable in medium to no traffic without a clutch. The Synchro Rev Match would make it easier, but it can be done without. It's called, strangely, rev matching. Hard to do in a very heavy to stop-n-go traffic and the route needs to be well-planned to lessen the number of stops. Shifting should be minimized to avoid the chance of wearing the synchronizers too much. So, basically, when stopped, engine must be turned off. Put the shifter in 1st and start the engine; the car will jerk while the starter is cranking and the engine firing up. Bring engine speed a bit high, around 4-5k, then relax the throttle (do not lift completely) before moving the shifter to Neutral. Zero throttle while shifter is in neutral. Next gear, I would pick 3rd to minimize shifting, would be engaged while the engine speed is on the way down or, if the Sport mode is engaged, the Synchro Rev Match will put the engine at the correct speed. Slide the shifter into the next gear, there should be little to no resistance when the engine speed and the vehicle speed are matched for that gear. If a downshift is required, slide the shifter into neutral, blip the throttle (or Synchro Rev Match would do it) while gently resting the shifter at the gate of a gear; once revs are matched, the shifter will slide into gear. When a stop is imminent, reduce speed accordingly in gear. Once engine speed is low enough (I use 1.5k rpm or lower), slide the shifter into neutral, and continue braking. Once in a complete stop, turn off engine. To start, repeat the process from the top. Stop signs are tricky and they can be two handfuls, literally. Watch traffic closely, be a defensive driver while doing this, and absolutely anticipate every and any possible scenario. Adjust vehicle speed to minimize stops at traffic lights. Left-hand turns can be nerve racking, but it's doable. Use hazard lights and turn signals (hazard is always on whenever a turn signal isn't needed).