sway bars

littlejuanito · 05-10-2017, 02:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

If you get adjustable upper control arms. You can change your camber in front for better handling and to take full advantage of the sway bar.

Mr. Rusty, I've gotten half the SPL catalog so far, minus outer tie rods or bushings but I'm looking to tighten my suspension a little more. What you recommend ?

Rusty · 05-10-2017, 11:36 PM

You can skip the tie-rod ends unless you're lowered, and want to correct for bump steer.
The lower front control arm bearings help tighten the front up.
You have the bearings for the rear knuckles?
Hotchkis front swaybar.
Good Coil-overs with the right springs.

Nissan - 09+ 370Z (Z34) - SPLParts

carlitos_370z · 05-11-2017, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

You can skip the tie-rod ends unless you're lowered, and want to correct for bump steer.
The lower front control arm bearings help tighten the front up.
You have the bearings for the rear knuckles?
Hotchkis front swaybar.
Good Coil-overs with the right springs.

Nissan - 09+ 370Z (Z34) - SPLParts

Hi Rusty! In your opinion, what is the best coilovers spring rates for our Z's? Im trying to get all the info that I can cause my next project are going to be the suspension department

Rusty · 05-11-2017, 03:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carlitos_370z

Hi Rusty! In your opinion, what is the best coilovers spring rates for our Z's? Im trying to get all the info that I can cause my next project are going to be the suspension department

Man...that's a hard question. Depends if you just DD, or track, or do both and how much of each. You willingness to withstand a stiff set-up on the street if set-up for the track. And just the opposite for the track. If you run aero on the track. It's going to be stiffer. In the rear. You got the stock location, The SPL arms, and true coil-overs to think about. Best bet would be to start a thread and ask the question. You will get a bunch of different opinions.

carlitos_370z · 05-11-2017, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Man...that's a hard question. Depends if you just DD, or track, or do both and how much of each. You willingness to withstand a stiff set-up on the street if set-up for the track. And just the opposite for the track. If you run aero on the track. It's going to be stiffer. In the rear. You got the stock location, The SPL arms, and true coil-overs to think about. Best bet would be to start a thread and ask the question. You will get a bunch of different opinions.

No problem bro! I know its hard to tell! My car was my dd before but not any more thanks to GOD because the streets here are getting worst every day

Now the Z are going to be 70% track and 30% back road driving

OptionZero · 05-11-2017, 05:06 PM

easiest budget solution is to call Charles at Powertrix, tell him what you want, and do what he says

his coilovers are under $2k

Hotrodz · 05-11-2017, 06:25 PM

Your bought will dictate your options and I think there are a lot of good choices at or just below $2000. What I have observed with or without rear aero spring rates very between 8k to 11k on average. This will depend on depend on the spring manufacturer. I see the most variations on the front end because of the amount of aero and suspension. If you are building a time attack car with crazy areo you will need to consult with the pros lol! I'm running swift springs 13k front and 10k back with a 4"front splitter up front and an APR gt 300 rear wing. It is set at APR's recommended angle of attack for optimal down force and drag because I got the hp to push through the drag on high speed courses lol!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

gomer_110 · 05-11-2017, 06:49 PM

Up front you're going to want at least 1000+ lb/in springs for a track/autox oriented car. The rears get a little trickier since the desired rate will depend largely on whether you keep the spring and damper separate or switch to a true coilover. Mine are still separate and I have 800lb/in springs in the rear with no rear sway bar.

You also want to make sure your dampers are valved to match the spring rates you're using.

Hotrodz · 05-11-2017, 07:03 PM

Suspension setup is the ultimate game in whatever auto spot you chase. The more you learn the more complex it gets especially as you add or subtract components and what tracks/courses you run at.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Rusty · 05-11-2017, 07:30 PM

Suspension set-up is of personal preference also. What works for one person, may not work for someone else. Then you have guys who can drive anything.

Hotrodz · 05-11-2017, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

Suspension setup is the ultimate game in whatever auto spot you chase. The more you learn the more complex it gets especially as you add or subtract components and what tracks/courses you run at.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Agreed! Robbie Gordon...

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Spooler · 05-11-2017, 09:11 PM

Yeap, If I change springs I would go up to 13k front and 11k rear swifts. I like the way my car is now but the springs I feel are a little soft. I have factory aero too. So, whatever you get make sure it is easy to change out springs but you have a limit that the dampers can handle before they will need to be re-tuned.

carlitos_370z · 05-12-2017, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OptionZero

easiest budget solution is to call Charles at Powertrix, tell him what you want, and do what he says

his coilovers are under $2k

That is what im going to do when I decide to buy the coilovers

BTW Thanks for take you time to explain me guys! I really appreciated

For now im going to start with the Hotchkis sway bar on front and some SPL goodies. After that Im going to install the GT Wing (Im between APR or Voltex) and then finish with the coilovers

bbermann · 05-22-2017, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

I started with both Hotchkis bars, then no rear bar, stock rear bar, and settled on the Hotchkis bar on the soft setting because of the 345's on the rear.

With the 325's, and depending on your alignment settings, and front tire size. The front Hotchkis bar and the stock rear bar.

Appreciate all the info. Installed the Hotchkis front over the weekend and can tell the difference, for sure.

05-10-2017, 11:36 PM	#32 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,181 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	You can skip the tie-rod ends unless you're lowered, and want to correct for bump steer. The lower front control arm bearings help tighten the front up. You have the bearings for the rear knuckles? Hotchkis front swaybar. Good Coil-overs with the right springs. Nissan - 09+ 370Z (Z34) - SPLParts carlitos_370z and littlejuanito like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

05-11-2017, 05:06 PM	#36 (permalink)
OptionZero A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Sacramento Posts: 3,225 Drives: 15 370Z Nismo 6MT Rep Power: 214100	easiest budget solution is to call Charles at Powertrix, tell him what you want, and do what he says his coilovers are under $2k carlitos_370z likes this. __________________ OptionZero Build Thread

05-11-2017, 06:25 PM	#37 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684385	Your bought will dictate your options and I think there are a lot of good choices at or just below $2000. What I have observed with or without rear aero spring rates very between 8k to 11k on average. This will depend on depend on the spring manufacturer. I see the most variations on the front end because of the amount of aero and suspension. If you are building a time attack car with crazy areo you will need to consult with the pros lol! I'm running swift springs 13k front and 10k back with a 4"front splitter up front and an APR gt 300 rear wing. It is set at APR's recommended angle of attack for optimal down force and drag because I got the hp to push through the drag on high speed courses lol! Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk Rusty and carlitos_370z like this. __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

05-11-2017, 06:49 PM	#38 (permalink)
gomer_110 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Perrysburg, OH Posts: 17,992 Drives: '11 Nismo #528 GM Rep Power: 36941	Up front you're going to want at least 1000+ lb/in springs for a track/autox oriented car. The rears get a little trickier since the desired rate will depend largely on whether you keep the spring and damper separate or switch to a true coilover. Mine are still separate and I have 800lb/in springs in the rear with no rear sway bar. You also want to make sure your dampers are valved to match the spring rates you're using. Rusty, Hotrodz, carlitos_370z and 1 others like this. __________________ '11 370Z Nismo #528 Fast Intentions \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Uprev \| CSF \| Zspeed \| Z1 Motorsports \| AST \| Swift \| SPC \| SPL \| Whiteline \| Hotchkis \| Bride \| Schroth \| Robispec \| Cusco \| Nismo \| Volk \| Forgestar \| Hoosier \| RJM '17 Titan Bone Stock

05-11-2017, 07:03 PM	#39 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684385	Suspension setup is the ultimate game in whatever auto spot you chase. The more you learn the more complex it gets especially as you add or subtract components and what tracks/courses you run at. Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk carlitos_370z likes this. __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

05-11-2017, 07:30 PM	#40 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,181 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	Suspension set-up is of personal preference also. What works for one person, may not work for someone else. Then you have guys who can drive anything. Hotrodz, carlitos_370z and Spooler like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

05-11-2017, 09:11 PM	#42 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,798 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684392	Yeap, If I change springs I would go up to 13k front and 11k rear swifts. I like the way my car is now but the springs I feel are a little soft. I have factory aero too. So, whatever you get make sure it is easy to change out springs but you have a limit that the dampers can handle before they will need to be re-tuned. carlitos_370z likes this.

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