Originally Posted by Rusty If you get adjustable upper control arms. You can change your camber in front for better handling and to take full advantage of the sway bar.
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05-10-2017, 02:08 PM | #31 (permalink) |
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Mr. Rusty, I've gotten half the SPL catalog so far, minus outer tie rods or bushings but I'm looking to tighten my suspension a little more. What you recommend ?
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05-10-2017, 11:36 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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You can skip the tie-rod ends unless you're lowered, and want to correct for bump steer.
The lower front control arm bearings help tighten the front up. You have the bearings for the rear knuckles? Hotchkis front swaybar. Good Coil-overs with the right springs. Nissan - 09+ 370Z (Z34) - SPLParts
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05-11-2017, 08:37 AM | #33 (permalink) | |
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05-11-2017, 03:14 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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Man...that's a hard question. Depends if you just DD, or track, or do both and how much of each. You willingness to withstand a stiff set-up on the street if set-up for the track. And just the opposite for the track. If you run aero on the track. It's going to be stiffer. In the rear. You got the stock location, The SPL arms, and true coil-overs to think about. Best bet would be to start a thread and ask the question. You will get a bunch of different opinions.
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05-11-2017, 03:39 PM | #35 (permalink) | |
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05-11-2017, 05:06 PM | #36 (permalink) |
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easiest budget solution is to call Charles at Powertrix, tell him what you want, and do what he says
his coilovers are under $2k
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05-11-2017, 06:25 PM | #37 (permalink) |
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Your bought will dictate your options and I think there are a lot of good choices at or just below $2000. What I have observed with or without rear aero spring rates very between 8k to 11k on average. This will depend on depend on the spring manufacturer. I see the most variations on the front end because of the amount of aero and suspension. If you are building a time attack car with crazy areo you will need to consult with the pros lol! I'm running swift springs 13k front and 10k back with a 4"front splitter up front and an APR gt 300 rear wing. It is set at APR's recommended angle of attack for optimal down force and drag because I got the hp to push through the drag on high speed courses lol!
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05-11-2017, 06:49 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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Up front you're going to want at least 1000+ lb/in springs for a track/autox oriented car. The rears get a little trickier since the desired rate will depend largely on whether you keep the spring and damper separate or switch to a true coilover. Mine are still separate and I have 800lb/in springs in the rear with no rear sway bar.
You also want to make sure your dampers are valved to match the spring rates you're using.
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05-11-2017, 07:03 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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Suspension setup is the ultimate game in whatever auto spot you chase. The more you learn the more complex it gets especially as you add or subtract components and what tracks/courses you run at.
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05-11-2017, 07:30 PM | #40 (permalink) |
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Suspension set-up is of personal preference also. What works for one person, may not work for someone else. Then you have guys who can drive anything.
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05-11-2017, 07:32 PM | #41 (permalink) | |
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05-11-2017, 09:11 PM | #42 (permalink) |
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Yeap, If I change springs I would go up to 13k front and 11k rear swifts. I like the way my car is now but the springs I feel are a little soft. I have factory aero too. So, whatever you get make sure it is easy to change out springs but you have a limit that the dampers can handle before they will need to be re-tuned.
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05-12-2017, 07:54 AM | #43 (permalink) | |
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BTW Thanks for take you time to explain me guys! I really appreciated For now im going to start with the Hotchkis sway bar on front and some SPL goodies. After that Im going to install the GT Wing (Im between APR or Voltex) and then finish with the coilovers |
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05-22-2017, 05:07 PM | #44 (permalink) | |
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