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Anybody have any idea wtf this might be?
So I bought a 2010 370z nismo from a dealership (Not a Nissan dealership) Around 28 or 29 days ago. When I test drove it, it drove like a dream. Everything all perfect. So I am signing the paperwork and handing them tens of thousands of my hard earned dollars, and they bring me to my new car. It has just been filled with fuel.
A week later I get out and start it up. Immediately i know something isnt right. I wait for it to warm up every single time after starting it before driving off. The "Service engine soon" light is on and it idles at about 1100-1200 RPM. With aftermarket exhaust, this is extremely annoying. First thing I did was take it to auto zone, because that is .5 miles away and they have a scan tool. The guy told me misfire in cylinder #5. I immediately take it to the dealership I bought it at because I paid for a warranty. After two or three hours of standing around they come out and ask me if I ever put "Bad gas" in it. I say no...i only put 92 octane in it. Which is what it takes. Premium. So they end up just clearing the code and its back to normal but i had to go pay for my own octane booster out of pocket. Another week later after I get back from a short vacation at a lake, I get in it. Fire it up, and it's doing the **** again!!! I took it back to the dealership and was pissed this time. They ended up giving me a loaner car and held the car over night. They called me that night saying "when you bought the car we changed the oil, but apparently the car needs specific oil from nissan, and the cylinder misfire thing is from cold start". This car has never been started when it's cold. It's not even close to cold outside right now. So I drove from portland, OR to Long Beach, WA. No problem, the very next day. It's doing this **** AGAIN. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow yet AGAIN. I don't know what to do anymore. The car is paid off, but it's jacked up and nobody can figure out why. So maybe this is a long shot, but here is a picture of how high it idles and the light, and if you read my story..give me your opinion please. Btw I haven't been driving it hard at all. Just normal everyday operation. http://i60.tinypic.com/28cg84l.jpg |
Sorry about your trouble, especially so soon after buying your Z.
When the guy at AutoZone did a scan, did you get the actual code that he read? If so, what was it? Also, what was the code that the dealership got when they scanned your Z? I believe the code for a #5 cylinder misfire is P0305. Also, do you have any mods? I'm sure others will chime in, but just wondering, specifically, what code (or codes) your getting. In the meantime, here's a thread regarding a #5 cylinder misfiring - http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...al-purple.html. |
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Anyway, if you want to check on your own, I would start by looking for vacuum leaks and, if you're so inclined, pull the plugs and check them for proper gap and/or to determine if they're fouled. Otherwise, let the dealer handle it under warranty. Either way, good luck and let us know what you find out. |
Could be a coil going bad, could be a bad batch of gas. I pulled the same code about a month ago after filling up at some no name gas station. A week later it went away on it's own.
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The Z does like the special ester oil they make but I've used it only one time. Every other time I've used castrol full synthetic and I've never had a misfire. So whoever told you it was because of the oil is a dumb ***
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I agree the non use of ester oil has nothing to do with this.
As someone said your spark plugs might need to be checked or the connectors to the plug is loose. I drive my car with that service light on. The car still runs great its just annoying to see that light on. But I got used to it. I just needed to tune the car with all the breather mods I added |
My z went in limp mode because of a broken maf bolt, the cars are really sensitive. It could be a spark plug going bad or a coil pack
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Cant be the oil, becuse I use RedLine oil in my z... Never had an issue...
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It could also be a bad o2 sensor. I get the P0300 code all the time since I removed my cats and the ECU is freaked out that the readings between the two sensors is not different and thinks it is a “rich” condition and throws the code. So you could get a new o2 sensor or get the free version of Torque and a BT ODBII reader and clear the code when it happens. Perhaps the installer of the exhaust damaged the o2 sensor.
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If I was in this situation, I'd start by changing the spark plugs. After a few days if it comes back, try the coil pack. If the problem still persists, check the MAF and O2 sensors
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A little bit of an update. Took it into the dealership today and they sent me to a Nissan dealership who will fix the problem whatever it may be on Wednesday. Will update again then.
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How many miles on ~Z~ ?
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Sounds like a coil pack going bad. That is what they do when they start to go. Misfire when cold, then clear up. Next thing, they will completely go dead and miss all the time.
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How does a coil pack looks like and where is it located?
is that something easy to DIY? How many miles do you need to change plugs in our Z? |
Even though some manuals say 100k , I've seen others say 60k hard driving; I'm about to do mine soon/ got 61k on a 11',,, but still getting 27mpg avg.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
do you have aftermarket intakes? If so get the Z1 motorsports silicone hoses for aftermarket intakes.
I had the same code and I replaced those hoses and changed my spark plugs and it's been good for 6 months now. |
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If anyone put bad gas in it would probably be the dealer.
When I bought my Nismo 350Z the car was on empty so the salesman told me to hop on in and drive him over to the gas station and he would fill up the car for me. We get to the gas station and he clicks on 87 without hesitation and I had to jump out of the car and tell him the car only takes premium. He was like "Oh ok" and then we had to go in, get the pump reset and refill with premium. While I'm on this rant, before I bought my Nismo 370Z I told the dealer multiple times about the shipping spacers and asked again for confirmation they got the ones in the top that were hard to see. Dealer said I am 100% confident we got them all. So stupid me didn't want to look like a pain in the *** at the dealership and jump under the car to check and take their word. I had asked them about 3 times at this point. I get off the highway and was shocked how much stiffer the ride was than my 350Z and sure enough the 2 top shipping springs were in there still. I would take the car back and get a refund if possible. This may be the first sign of trouble among many IMO |
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Heck, I got 49K and change. I bought it with 19K a little over a year ago.
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So here's an update. The Nissan dealership told me the battery is bad. Even though it always reads 14V on the gauge in the dash, oh and thats causing misfires...This is nowhere in my diagnostic flow chart lol. I've never heard of a bad battery reading 14v, and causing a misfire in the engine. Maybe a bad coil pack, or plugs, but never a battery. Also love how its not covered in an extended warranty.
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^Is it possible the previous owner tuned it in any way which is causing the problems.
I've heard of some shops around here doing an "uprev" tune to the Z's and can screw it up. Also, are there any signs of modification done previously? Not to add to your paranioa but someone could be that someone screwed with the car, started having problems, got it fixed enough to trade it in. Do you /the the dealership have the service records on the car. If the basic maintenance wasn't done at Nissan, it could have been done by the previous owner or a tuning shop. I used to bring my Evo to my tuning shop for oil changes instead of Mitsubishi. Hope everything works out. Do they have lemon laws on used cars where you are from? |
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The only mod I see is Apexi exhaust. A guy responded to one of my posts on here saying "You bought my old Z congrats!" And his profile picture looked like my car on the dyno at COBB surgeline. I think that was just a dyno run though, not tuning. His sig says it was dyno'd bone stock. But who knows. As far as maintenance, there were a decent amount of records on the Carfax if that means anything. The dealership gave me a loaner...a freaking Juke. Ugh...lol |
Check if the cars been tuned if so make sure its to stock
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Only way a battery would cause an issue is if it has a dead cell. That will wreck havoc on the computer systems. Strange things tend to happen when this actually occurs.
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That goes for UPREV or any other tuning, ECUTEK etc… |
Well, if they say it's "fixed" now with a new battery, see if it happens again, if so, i'd be looking to get a full refund.
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So 4 days go by with the new battery. I get out in my car this evening around 4pm. It's about 75 outside. The dealership keeps telling me its throwing this P0300(Random misfire) code because of cold start conditions. It hasn't been cold in the entire month i've owned it. It's doing it again. So we've been through: fuel, oil, battery. I told them countless times to replace the coil, or the plugs or something. This is not normal...right? This can't be happening every week on a random day I drive my car. Otherwise, who would buy a car that always has the service engine soon light on every week? Nissan Dealership can't even look at it until Friday.
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I would start telling them if it doesn't get fixed soon it's going back for a full refund.
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IDK if this applies to manual car's;but i've seen that a cracked flywheel will cause it on an automatic.
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I just googled this code for this car and about 5 threads from this forum were among the first on the list. Let's see a show of hands how many of us paid for a car to have to clear a code every week? I know I sure as **** didn't. I guess I'll just keep going to the dealership and have them put a brand new part on for free every week until it's fixed. It's going in tomorrow morning. Can't wait to hear what their solution is this time. By the way, I have told them what to do, but they don't listen to me. At this rate I'll have a brand new top end. It's a shame that I have owned the car a little over a month and have only enjoyed it for about a week. The rest of the time its been in the service department at two different dealerships while I drive crappy loaner cars around.
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Here's a little update. Car has been in the service dept of the dealership for 7 days now. This morning the service manager calls me and tells me they need to do a compression test, but they don't have the necessary tools until Tuesday. I drove over there and said I will go get a compression test kit RIGHT NOW. The service manager told me: "No, it's back there all taken apart right now" So I was like...oooookkkaaayyyy....I will go get the compression test kit right now to expedite this situation, and he seemed like he got mad at me and said "No." Then I said WTF and left. They are dragging their feet. First they said they were going to replace an injector, and now its a compression test. By the way, in the beginning of this thread I mentioned it being a "Cylinder #5 misfire" and the dealership JUST NOW. Figured out that hey, it's cylinder #5 that's the issue!
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They assing around & probably don't have a certified tech that knows how to work on one.
You're getting jacked around/ may want to seek a refund or comparable Z, upgrade of course... Hopefully nobody sprayed that one & got a cylinder- could have melted down an electrode. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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well i hope it gets worked out, i been dealing with a p0300 myself. But the last time the code popped up i got the p0306. So thats a relief that its isolating the problem now, and i can start to check around cylinder 6. Will be inspecting my spark plugs, coils, and injectors, and o2 sensors now. Will also be checking for any type of vacum leaks.
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my 350Z was plagued with this after awhile. Turned out to be a bad coil pack. Had the same issue with my 370Z after doing headers (plugs and coil packs were new). Had the code shut off via uprev. Got a nismo 370Z recently and it does it when its cold due to the test pipes. I remove it and go about my day. You will find hundreds of people with the same problem. The ecu and the electric components are very sensitive on these cars for some reason. I simply got myself and ELM327 Bluetooth dongle and the dash command app. I know there is nothing wrong with the car and just remove it when it appears.
Odds are the dealership isn't going to find anything wrong. They are worthless and rely on computers to tell them what the issue is. They go through their steps to "fix" the issue and most of the time they never accomplish it. This is a common "issue". An issue that doesn't matter, but I understand your frustration since you've spent your hard earned money on it and have paid for an extended warranty. |
Man hope It get fix soon the right way.
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