Nissan 370Z Forum

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-   -   Clutch sticking half way to floor (http://www.the370z.com/nismo-370z/103953-clutch-sticking-half-way-floor.html)

KoolKarmaJoe 07-12-2015 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverFox006 (Post 3254850)
My 16' nismo had the slave cylinder go out Friday with only 1200 miles on the clock. It had the same symptoms with the sinking clutch pedal.

Wow that Blows!! Totally F*cked Up that a new ride with low mileage like that breaks down! NISSAN SUCKS!!

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KoolKarmaJoe 07-12-2015 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KoolKarmaJoe (Post 3254852)
Wow that Blows!! Totally F*cked Up that a new ride with low mileage like that breaks down! NISSAN SUCKS!!

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The 370Z is turning out to be a "WEAK" car!. It has a Achilles Heel, a piece of SH*T Drive train! Cars should be built on a solid foundation, but if your drive train is Sh*t , than you have failed Nissan! A Mazda Miata or a Suburu BRZ has a stronger drive train, that is more reliable than Nissan OEM CSC! I'm beginning to regret my purchase of a Z!
Quote:

Originally Posted by KoolKarmaJoe (Post 3254755)
Haha ! Kudo's to you ! I hope you make it.

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JARblue 07-12-2015 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KoolKarmaJoe (Post 3254860)
The 370Z is turning out to be a "WEAK" car!. It has a Achilles Heel, a piece of SH*T Drive train! Cars should be built on a solid foundation, but if your drive train is Sh*t , than you have failed Nissan! A Mazda Miata or a Suburu BRZ has a stronger drive train, that is more reliable than Nissan OEM CSC! I'm beginning to regret my purchase of a Z!

That's a bit much :rolleyes: I have a problem with the way Nissan has handled certain issues (the ESCL and CSC in particular). But the Z does not deserve to be disparaged for them. If you think a Miata or BRZ is that much better, by all means you are welcome to trade your Z for one :tiphat:

You're attributing the quality of one small part of the drivetrain to the entire system. The MT holds quite a bit of power before needing to be upgraded itself. There is a CF driveshaft upgrade, but the stock one is certainly not garbage. No comment on the differential lol. But for street use, the stock system is absolutely adequate with the exception of seemingly random CSC failures. For *most* of that stock system to also be able to handle power increases and track duty with typical upgrades (like clutch and differential) is pretty impressive in my book. This is a $30K sports car after all. I will admit Miata doors are fuckin amazing, but Miatas and BRZs I'm sure have their own faults. The question I feel is more relevant than what those issues are is whether Mazda or Toyobaru treat their customers the same as Nissan with respect to those issues.

FWIW, I took care of a few minor issues I had with the Z (Z1 CSC kit, RJM clutch pedal assembly, tune for throttle lag), and the car drives amazing for me now. I did the installs myself (except for the tune) and the total cost for those three items was about the same or less than what most dealers would charge to put another garbage CSC in your Z if it fails out of warranty.

macwest 07-16-2015 01:01 PM

Well I just ordered the kit from Joe at Zspeed with the new master cylinder . The speed shop that I frequent will install it for me for 650.00. I only have 1650 miles on the car, The speed shop thinks I'm nuts but I will rather just get it done and not worry about it. Mac

macwest 07-20-2015 07:45 PM

car goes I tomorrow for install. I will update

eastwest2300 07-21-2015 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macwest (Post 3262460)
car goes I tomorrow for install. I will update

awesome man.. I take mine in to AAM on Friday, Im really excited.

JARblue 07-21-2015 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macwest (Post 3258724)
Well I just ordered the kit from Joe at Zspeed with the new master cylinder . The speed shop that I frequent will install it for me for 650.00. I only have 1650 miles on the car, The speed shop thinks I'm nuts but I will rather just get it done and not worry about it. Mac

With only 1650 miles on it, you might have been able to get away with using the same master cylinder :icon17: (did you ask Joe about that?)

But I like the way you are thinking. Preventative, not reactionary :tup:

KoolKarmaJoe 07-21-2015 10:28 AM

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/07...eec2540b35.jpg
ZSpeed Fan! Very pleased with Joe's help & advise to upgrade my CLUTCH hydraulics, Clutch Kit, & ACT Streetlite Flywheel.

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eastwest2300 07-21-2015 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 3262908)
With only 1650 miles on it, you might have been able to get away with using the same master cylinder :icon17: (did you ask Joe about that?)

But I like the way you are thinking. Preventative, not reactionary :tup:

Exactly!

2011 Nismo#91 07-21-2015 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jsolo (Post 3254667)
I'm not sure I entirely agree with this. I don't see how the MC can influence SC failure.

The reason for replacing the MC is because of difficulty in bleeding the system when replacing the CSC. This becomes an issue on higher mileage cars, not brand new cars. For lack of a better term, an "aged" MC has more wear inside and may leak (to some extent) internally. As a result, it's difficult and/or impossible to get air out of the system.

On a car with 1900 miles (OP), this should not be an issue. After the car is aged - 50, 60, 70K miles, and clutch/csc replacement is necessary, then absolutely, replace the MC too.

My recommendation, change the fluid in the reservoir once a year. Use some kind of suction device to suck out most (not all) of the fluid from the reservoir. Replenish. Drive the car a few days then repeat. Do this 2 or 3 times to renew the fluid. Every 2 years do a thorough flush. Doing this removes contaminants from the clutch line and should prolong life of the entire system.

Edit: I should add, failure of a CSC on a brand new car is very discerning. Doesn't inspire lots of confidence in the build quality. Usually they fail later, 40-60K miles.

I completely agree with the MC stuff. I think many people are over zealous about replacing both when the only information has been from a few techs saying that think it maybe causing an issue too.

One thing of note in my car is that I changed the clutch fluid a few months after I changed my brake fluid. Boiled the stock clutch fluid on the track because I never realized test pipes or HFCs with out a heat shield are a bit too close to the stock line. Anyway I have a brake fluid tester (test water content) the older brake fluid is still at less then 1% water content but the clutch fluid is already over 4% and a dark brown. I am going to change it soon but water seems to be getting into the clutch fluid very easily.

macwest 07-21-2015 05:55 PM

I asked Joe he said I should be alright , but I go through enough anxiety that my car wont be damaged during the install so I'm replacing the MC also. I don't want to have to do it again. Mac

eastwest2300 07-21-2015 09:24 PM

I dont blame ya.

Uxi 07-22-2015 10:57 AM

Service rep told me replaced MC when they did the disc and CSC but apparently lied since the MC wasn't on the invoice...

eastwest2300 07-22-2015 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Uxi (Post 3263996)
Service rep told me replaced MC when they did the disc and CSC but apparently lied since the MC wasn't on the invoice...

ahhh dude, thats so much BS.. I dont trust anything them azzhats say.

macwest 07-22-2015 12:47 PM

Mine is at shop now for the install and I'm having them put on an intake . They are using dot 4 some brand made in Germany for fluid in MC and putting in redline in trans which I already did but told me some would come out pulling drive shaft. The intake they are installing is k And N short ram using AFE oil free filters.(that was my decision not there's). Mac


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