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New 2018 Nissan 370Z Nismo

Here are some pics early on into the install of the SC. Forgot to tell you guys that I also added a mishimoto aluminum radiator to the install.

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Old 05-18-2018, 12:22 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Here are some pics early on into the install of the SC. Forgot to tell you guys that I also added a mishimoto aluminum radiator to the install.
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Last edited by cadoo; 05-18-2018 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 05-20-2018, 04:02 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Here are some updated pics just waiting on UpRev.
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Old 05-22-2018, 07:56 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Congratulations on your progress your Z should really be putting down some nice power.
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Old 05-22-2018, 08:17 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadoo View Post
Why do you have to take the trunk off? I don’t know exactly how many holes the Evo-R High wing reuses to bolt itself down but it covers any extra holes. Just not the lower 4 that I circled.
Jay at Evo-R told me 2 of the holes will line up and you will need to drill 2 new holes. I am going the same route as Cadoo, my high wing is scheduled to arrive this Friday.

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Old 05-22-2018, 11:38 AM   #35 (permalink)
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Here are some pics early on into the install of the SC. Forgot to tell you guys that I also added a mishimoto aluminum radiator to the install.
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Old 05-22-2018, 01:19 PM   #36 (permalink)
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There are 2 videos above your post and there are several topics on it in this forum. Here is one: DIY: Triple Gauge Cluster



The shop said if you only want to change one out you de-pin it and the other 2 stock ones that are left will still work fine. They have done several Zs this way. When I get pics of the Boost Gauge in the triple pod I will post the pics

It’ll be interesting to see if they can do that. I’ve only seen people replace all three. Even the videos you posted above and the DIY have all three gauges replaced.
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Old 05-22-2018, 03:25 PM   #37 (permalink)
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It’ll be interesting to see if they can do that. I’ve only seen people replace all three. Even the videos you posted above and the DIY have all three gauges replaced.
If possible, this would be helpful for those of us with ecutek and adding gauges in that cluster.
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Old 05-24-2018, 03:14 PM   #38 (permalink)
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It’ll be interesting to see if they can do that. I’ve only seen people replace all three. Even the videos you posted above and the DIY have all three gauges replaced.
Bad news on the Gauges. They told me this has worked on 2013-16 but they couldn’t do it on mine. So the shop installed 3 defi red racer gauges. Boost, oil and temp. I was excited too but oh well. I’m supposed to pick up the Nismo today so very excited. Will post pics and video plus dyno.

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Old 05-24-2018, 04:18 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cadoo View Post
Bad news on the Gauges. They told me this has worked on 2013-16 but they couldn’t do it on mine. So the shop installed 3 defi red racer gauges. Boost, oil and temp. I was excited to but oh well. I’m supposed to pick up the Nismo today so very excited. Will post pics and video plus dyno.
What has changed from 2016 to 2018 model?

I’ve got a 2016 Supercharged Nismo and a std 2018 Nismo, apart from the boot release button on the centre console and differently colour door handiest along with clutch I though the cars were identical



Also make sure you change the original 1.09bar MAP sensor for a 4 bar T-MAP sensor. You may also need an air temp sensor plumber into the stillen inlet or possibly use the T-MAP to monitor air temp.



Also love these gauges, may look into getting these fitted to mine

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Old 05-24-2018, 06:34 PM   #40 (permalink)
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I will ask more into the gauges on what has changed and what exact year that they successfully have done. Maybe the circuit boards have changed after 2016? I will find out more. Still planning on picking it up today.

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Old 05-24-2018, 08:20 PM   #41 (permalink)
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What has changed from 2016 to 2018 model?

I’ve got a 2016 Supercharged Nismo and a std 2018 Nismo, apart from the boot release button on the centre console and differently colour door handiest along with clutch I though the cars were identical



Also make sure you change the original 1.09bar MAP sensor for a 4 bar T-MAP sensor. You may also need an air temp sensor plumber into the stillen inlet or possibly use the T-MAP to monitor air temp.



Also love these gauges, may look into getting these fitted to mine

I don’t need a bigger sensor because I’m only running 7lbs of boost and the stock sensor will read that fine. Up to 14lbs of boost.
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Old 05-24-2018, 08:55 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Could always leave one gauge still wired but drop it behind the radio, leaving you a space for your gauge and factory gauges remain working.


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Old 05-24-2018, 11:48 PM   #43 (permalink)
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UPDATE:
The tech Tried to leave for the dyno, car threw a check engine light 10 minutes from the shop. They scanned it and it has misfire codes

Last edited by cadoo; 08-27-2018 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 05-24-2018, 11:56 PM   #44 (permalink)
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UPDATE:
The tech Tried to leave for the dyno, car threw a check engine light 10 minutes from the shop. They scanned it and it has misfire codes. It's trying to pull a ton of fuel. It looks like the tune file uprev sent them isn't working and without the proper base calibration They can't tune the car. This was 6:30pm so UpRev can’t help till tomorrow. Gauges are in. So frustrating cause it took Uprev week and a half just to send the file cause they were out of town and now the file they sent doesn’t work. So hopefully they will re-send a new file QUICKLY.

That sucks.

Upgrade to Topgunz A2A kit can build a custom tune. You’ll thank yourself in the long run.
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Old 05-25-2018, 12:04 AM   #45 (permalink)
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That sucks.

Upgrade to Topgunz A2A kit can build a custom tune. You’ll thank yourself in the long run.
Sounds good but that’s another week waiting for parts and more $$ and then another week at the shop and more$$ to pay them. I think, we’ll I hope UpRev can send a new file in the morning. All what is left is the tune then dyno.

Last edited by cadoo; 08-27-2018 at 04:49 PM.
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