New 370Z Owner / Member

[Spoiler]

Enjoying your thread here.... keep it up...

[OhioYJ]

A box showed up from Z1 yesterday, power steering cooler. I think this is everything I need now for when I pull the front bumper again.

[OhioYJ]

Picked up my spoiler from the painter today:



Should be getting warm in couple weeks and I'll be able to actually work on the car, and start installing stuff.

[Quicksilvers]

Originally Posted by OhioYJ

A box showed up from Z1 yesterday, power steering cooler. I think this is everything I need now for when I pull the front bumper again.

A power steering cooler is always a good idea. Do you plan attending any track or auto x events with your Z?

[OhioYJ]

Originally Posted by Quicksilvers

A power steering cooler is always a good idea. Do you plan attending any track or auto x events with your Z?

Yes, hopefully this year. Had the bikes on the track, never got to take any of my cars, other than the drag strip (and I that doesn't really count), so that's on the to-do list.

[OhioYJ]

Well finally got around to installing my spoiler. So I swear I read Fly1 spoilers use factory holes, and either I mis-read this, or this was greatly exaggerated. I may have been going into this with too high of an expectation though. I made lemonade out of the situation, but I'm not impressed. I think may have ordered one of the cheaper variations if I had done if over again.

So I did manage to get the factory spoiler off in one piece, however it wasn't any fun:



As with everyone, the worst part was cleaning all the tape off:



There are seven holes that won't be used by the Fly1 spoiler in the deck lid. Worst yet the spoiler doesn't exactly contour to the hatch, so you really need to seal up the holes. I used push pins, siliconed down to seal them:



The outer hole needs to be drilled. There is a hole there for a push pin from the factory, however it's not in the correct location so on top of being drilled, you'll need to walk it over towards the center of the car. My recommendation would be not to go all the way through though. Because would interfere with the gasket surface on the bottom. Instead I drilled a access hole off to the side. Be prepared to be frustrated as this is very difficult to get the bolts started still. Watch it though the hole below that is for a push pin for the interior panel. In this manner no chance of leaks, damaging the seal, or wind noise:



The spoiler does look good:



Now the problem was no matter how I positioned the spoiler it did not fit the contour of the hatch perfectly. There were areas the tape did not touch. This left a gap water, dirt, wind, etc could get under. I used a syringe filled with clear silicone to get under the tape to fill the gaps. Only in the areas that were lifted obviously:



Now I know how this sounds. Once done, and smoothed it's all underneath everything. The silicone is not visible. It's under the tape. Here is the front, done. It doesn't look a caulked bathtub, I swear:



I did notice my 2016 does not have the weight on the hatch like earlier models.

Overall I was a little disappointed in the quality of the spoiler, as I had a big higher expectations of it. Perhaps that was my fault. That being said, I still think it turned out good. It's definitely an improvement over the sport spoiler for sure.

[OhioYJ]

Since I've put my exhaust on, randomly, I would get a check engine light due to my HFCs. However once every other month wasn't so bad. Last week it became a daily occurrence. My fuel economy didn't change, my AFR didn't change, and my performance hasn't changed, so time to do something about it. I called up Dynosty who did my tune, and they were great as always. They gave me all my options, I ended up picking up everything, including a bluetooth dongle, and they sent me a modified version of my map so my check engine light would stop coming on.



It will be nice not to be resetting that light every evening.

[OhioYJ]

Well started cutting the hood today for the Trackspec hood vents. Started off by washing the car so tape would stick to the hood. Figured good time to post a picture of the car with the new spoiler:



Removing the hood really is the easiest way to cut these holes.



Vent holes taped off for cutting:



Had to flip the hood to finish cutting. 95% of everything cut through, but little pieces had to be cut from underneath.



Finally so none of the grey primer, or bare aluminum showed, I taped off everything again, and painted everything black. This will also keep the aluminum from corroding.



I’ll start back up in the morning. So far it seems to be going smoothly.

[OhioYJ]

Finished up the hood vents today. Everything went pretty smoothly. I did pick up an air riveter just for this. It was worth it's weight in gold for this job.





On the under side of the hood, I used some adhesive to reattach and seal the hood support back to the sheet metal in a few places where it was now just floating. Figured it couldn't hurt. Also I noticed in the rivets included the short ones were stainless, the long ones were plain steel. Just as some extra insurance, I took some clear coat and coated the top of each rivet just to help prevent rust.





Didn't get as much done this weekend as I'd like. These vents, while not difficult to install, were time consuming. So maybe next weekend I'll pull the front bumper and do the oil cooler, power steering cooler, sway bars, and duct work for the intake.

[OhioYJ]

Spent Friday evening and all day today working on the car. The oil cooler and power steering cooler turned out to be more involved projects than I first thought. In particular the routing for the oil cooler lines took some creative thinking. Ended up making two brackets to help keep the line in place, and where I wanted it on the front side, yet let it move a little on the engine side if it needs to.



The stock front sway bar definitely looks tiny now. I didn't get to the rear one yet. Still debating on that one. However the front one is on.

[OhioYJ]

Well I bought stuff from Aircraft Spruce with the intention of running duct work up to the air filters. However after getting the crash bar back in place and the coolers installed... It was really looking like the duct work would end up blocking flow to the radiator and coolers in the most ideal routing.

For the moment, I've just removed the block off plates from the fang vents entirely. We'll see what this does.



My intake temps were already pretty low, before hand at 9 degrees above ambient at speed with the car warm (that is with the hood vents). So that is my base line. Since I don't think I can get the duct work in there how I want, I'm almost thinking maybe some small scoops behind the fang vents to direct air up where I want it? That I could likely install just by removing the splash shield.

[OhioYJ]

Working on a spacer to eliminate the spacer tire and factory sub in the back and still get the carpet and such back in the car. Don't exactly take my the 370 to the grocery store, but I'd like to be able to set things back there if I had to.



Painted the aluminum this morning. Then rubber will be going on the bottom and top of that the aluminum. Then lexan roughly the size of the hole, then a layer of dense foam to fill the gap in the factory foam, then another layer of lexan. Probably make more sense when I post more pictures of it finished.

[Zoren 370]

Originally Posted by Spoiler

Enjoying your thread here.... keep it up...

Yeah...yeah anything Red you get an orgasam!

[Quicksilvers]

Congratulations on your progress I really like the hood vents thumbs up.

[OhioYJ]

I did finally get all the carpet back in the car. First step was gluing rubber down to the bottom side:



First layer of lexan:



Then the factory foam, with some dense foam in the center to take up the space where the factory sub would have been. On top of that foam I have another piece of lexan to protect the foam, and helps make up the distance between the two layers of foam:



Then all the factory stuff on top again.