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New 370z owner, lots to learn. 2009 Touring w/ GTM Supercharger

Hello all. Previous Subaru owner, and before that S chassis guy. I've taken a break from owning cars for 5ish years and sort of stumbled into owning a 2009 Touring

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Old 04-09-2022, 10:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default New 370z owner, lots to learn. 2009 Touring w/ GTM Supercharger

Hello all. Previous Subaru owner, and before that S chassis guy. I've taken a break from owning cars for 5ish years and sort of stumbled into owning a 2009 Touring with some mods. Basically right time, right place, and a good deal type thing.

I know very little about these cars, and even less about superchargers. I've owned the car for a couple months now and have done a ton of reading. I'm familiar with the typical issues like the gallery gasket and slave cylinder. Ive performed the first lol change, still need to do the rest of the fluids.

The car has a GTM supercharger kit, previous owner swapped the bypass valve to a Trial QRM. Has a magnaflow CBE, and some hideous 20" black and chrome rims. 50,000km on the clock.

So far my issues are an intermittent cruise control problem where the light flashes on the dash and cruise control doesn't work, a fluttering BOV/BPV when cruising and 5% on the throttle, and the "key" dash light is on. One day the car would turn over, but not start. I swapped the key out for the spare, messed around with the locks and eventually it started. Not sure if it was the key or not. Other than that it just needs a good cleaning.

The wheels absolutely kill me, I don't know what direction I'm going with the car yet so I opted to get some cheap ESR CS15 wheels temporarily. Will probably look into some Weds or something down the road.

Absolutely any pointers or tips are welcome. I don't plan on starting any threads as all the info I need should be available, but ill use this as an opportunity to gain some info! Especially anything regarding supercharger maintenance/things to know, my fluttering issue (pretty sure I need a slightly stiffer BOV spring).

Potential plans for the car.. coilovers this summer or maybe air bags next winter. I live in the prairies, small city with no tracks nearby and pin straight roads. This car is just for spirited driving, some hard parking, and driving 7 hours to the mountains a few times a summer. I don't need some track monster, and not realistic to go as low as I like the look of without air bags. But we'll see, maybe I'll be happy with a 1" drop. I plan on dynoing the car this spring and potential and perhaps see what needs to be done to squeeze out a bit more power, although I care much more about useable power and a how it feels than a high dyno number.

Oh, and if anyone knows what the "PFC" is on the side of what I assume is a Nismo spoiler


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Old 04-10-2022, 10:29 AM   #2 (permalink)
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welcome and congrats and remember the Z likes to run
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Old 04-10-2022, 02:27 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Congrats on the car. These things are incredibly fun to drive and tinker with.

Regarding your cruise control issue, I had the same problem and it ended up being the clutch switch. Basically there are two switches that let the ECM know when your clutch pedal is fully depressed (for engine starting) or fully disengaged (how it knows to turn off CC when you touch the clutch pedal). In my case it was the latter of the two being out of adjustment. As the clutch pedal’s resting position lowered over time, the switch became less engaged and lead to an intermittent signal causing a fault with the ECM and the flashing light you mentioned. Adjusting the switch to be fully depressed at the clutch pedal’s new resting height fixed the issue completely.

I’d start there and then replace the switch if the problem persists. If neither of those work, it’s probably something a bit more complicated.
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Old 04-10-2022, 08:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ubermoore View Post
Congrats on the car. These things are incredibly fun to drive and tinker with.



Regarding your cruise control issue, I had the same problem and it ended up being the clutch switch. Basically there are two switches that let the ECM know when your clutch pedal is fully depressed (for engine starting) or fully disengaged (how it knows to turn off CC when you touch the clutch pedal). In my case it was the latter of the two being out of adjustment. As the clutch pedal’s resting position lowered over time, the switch became less engaged and lead to an intermittent signal causing a fault with the ECM and the flashing light you mentioned. Adjusting the switch to be fully depressed at the clutch pedal’s new resting height fixed the issue completely.



I’d start there and then replace the switch if the problem persists. If neither of those work, it’s probably something a bit more complicated.
Great, thank you!

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