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While waiting for my oil cooler to arrive, I'm preparing the oil pressure gauge. I bought the RSP gauge that seems to me like it has near exact font and
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While waiting for my oil cooler to arrive, I'm preparing the oil pressure gauge. I bought the RSP gauge that seems to me like it has near exact font and color as the original gauges. I also bought a used ventilation duct to experiment, but as it's in perfect condition, it will just replace my current ventilation duct.
The idea for location and how to do it is inspired (stolen) from a forum member who showed his pics here: Oil pressure gauge Thanks for the great suggestion! So, prepared pressure gauge in the vent: ![]() ![]() ![]() Will look like this when lit up: ![]() I'm planning to remove the door cards, put this in, and then pull the wires from it through the factory rubber hose connecting the door with the chassis, and then go from there onward. Last edited by filip00; 12-03-2022 at 08:46 AM. |
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Alright, we've got power in the pressure gauge
![]() It's not connected to the sensor yet, I'm tackling the oil cooler install tomorrow. Finally got ALL the parts, so tomorrow will be a long and I hope, a very successful day. Last edited by filip00; 02-11-2023 at 10:58 AM. |
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The oil pressure gauge has been successfully installed with no hassle whatsoever. Guiding the wiring through the factory door harness was a bit tricky but nothing too annoying.
![]() The ventilation hole for the door had to be blocked out, was quite a simple job too: ![]() And then the crazy business with oil cooler installation. The oil cooler install was simple, I only have to note that you need to remove the crash bar to install it, otherwise you can't drill a hole to hold the oil cooler in place. Also, don't forget to fill the oil cooler with oil all the way up before installing it - you don't want that engine to starve for oil once the thermostat opens and sends oil down the hoses to the oil cooler. ![]() Routing the hoses wasn't a problem, I found out the nicest way to route it is beneath the washer fluid, but you need to cut a small hole (7x7cm) to route the hoses through it: ![]() The worst headaches caused were by the pressure sensor. I got the adapter necessary: ![]() but there was just no room for everything. I had to add another small extender, because I would either have to get rid of the standard pressure sensor, or the anti-roll-bar or something else. It was a headache, but i managed. ![]() Finally, put back everything together, looks unsuspecting but obvious to the trained eye. ![]() ![]() I just turned on the car once, to check for leaks, all is GOOD, however I couldn't run it up to working temperature in the garage, so that the thermostat would open and I could actually test the cooler itself, but that part will be tested in spring, once the car is out of garage. This turn-on pressure read as ~7-8 BAR, then slowly dropping to about 5 BAR, when I already turned off the car as you can't really run it in the garage.... So yeah. One crucial upgrade done. Next part - upgrading brake lines, change of brake fluid and installing some brake cooling ducts. Last edited by filip00; 02-15-2023 at 04:13 AM. |
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Winter hibernation still ongoing, but lots of stuff is cooking.
1. Got new braided steel brake lines, and ordered Motul RBF 600 brake oil. 1,5l should be enough, right? That will be changed once the car is out, I don't fancy doing that crap myself. 2. Also ordered a diff brace from GKTech, I figure additional support on the diff should help. The car is still super low mileage (~17k miles), OEM bushings are practically as good as completely new, so I wasn't feeling like changing them yet. 3. While I was ordering from GKTech, I also ordered Tie rod spacers, along with new tie rods, which should give additional several degrees of steering angle. I'm not a drifter, and I'm not keen on going with some crazy angles, but I'd like a bit more degrees, so I figure this is worth changing, since it's such an unobtrusive change. 4. And while I'm still working on the front of the car, I will do the brake cooling. I don't feel like paying for a full kit, as I found 2,5" heat resistant tubing for about $70 locally, and I think I'll be able to guide and secure them well for some brake cooling. It's not that I absolutely need it, but it won't hurt, so whatever I get in terms of extra brake cooling will be good. When all that is done, the car should be almost fully complete to my preference and no more modding is expected. My wallet will also be thankful ![]() |
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Routing 2" diameter hose for brake ducts isn't too hard. When you go bigger. It becomes a challenge. I went from 2" to 3". That took me a while to figure out.
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These guys had 2,5" hoses that seem very fit for the job, I'm sure routing won't be a problem at all, it's more of a question of where I want to locate the intake side.
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It's where the hose is in relationship with the sway bar and the front inside corner of the tire. You might have to oval the hose there for clearance.
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Thanks for the heads-up! I got several of these (see attachment) just for that purpose, to make sure I can safely fasten them to a good spot. I guess it'll take some hacking, but I'll find a solution.
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Awesome car man, I love how the euro spec Z's have certain features that we don't get here. I would love to have the rear wiper on my Z to be honest. My 350 had it, but the 370 doesn't for some reason.
Btw, how are the side view mirrors on your car? Does the drivers side view mirror have the extended view for blind spots? Basically, the first quarter part of the mirror has a wider view glass than the rest. It looks like this: ![]() If so, then I'll get a set of side view mirrors from Germany or something and install them on my Z. |
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Not sure how I can tell, other than feeling with a hand? I don't have the specific button to activate the heater. I do think they are heated, because they never fogged up, even after entering the garage on a rainy day. I suspect they are heated.
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Hey, I have to say that no, my mirrors are just regular ones, there is no part that's cut, so that you get that extra blind spot view. Not sure if it's possible that came in with later Z's, but I do believe that any glass maker could to that for you. Maybe it wouldn't be as original, but if you basically just do a cut on the mirror, so that the outer part is tilted additional few degrees, it would catch the blind spot.
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Just to post a little update after running the car for 2 days for this season - I finally got a chance to test the oil cooler I bought. So, reminder - I bought a Setrab core, 25 row oil cooler with a thermostatic sandwich plate. I put it in the usual just behind the bumper spot.
The thermostat opens at around 82°C (180F) from what I could find online. This means that if I track the car and push it, but I keep speeds to about 60mph - the oil will reach maybe 110°C (230F), but never exceed it. It will quite quickly drop back to 90°C (195F). The interesting part is on the highway. If I'm cruising at around 130-140km/h (80-85mph) my oil temperature will get stuck on around 75°C (165F) and will not exceed it unless I push it. In 6th gear that's at 3000rpm. I find it a bit too cool for my taste, but what the hell do I know. All in all - super happy with it so far. |
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