Kansas City

victorofhavoc

i personally feel a road tune is the most ideal because a dyno simulates perfect conditions and you rarely get that. e-Tunes are road tunes that take longer because a person isn't in the car with you. I've never let a tuner solely give me a dyno tune...it's always road then touchup low end and redline fueling a bit on the dyno

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Had a 2010 WRX- boy was it quick in a straight line, got a 2014 Z- man is she grippy in the corners-- then left the Z and later got a GTI, now back in an 09 racecar Z!

m3chhawk

I don't disagree as a general statement, but the Z/UpRev doesn't have a usable air/fuel or the ability to record the knock sensor.

Also an eddy current dyno allows you to properly simulate road load coefficients.

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tower74

Agreed. I did this with my first turbo charged Z and it was a nightmare. You only receive a basic tuning screen and unless you know exactly what you are looking at they can screw up your car and they will not be held responsible. You really need a real tuner to see what is happening and what he is feeling. It was hard to describe some of the things happening unless you do it every day not when you are road tuning it for the first time. Hell, when I put it back to stock and loading the stock tune it almost screwed up my car because we forgot to remove the larger injectors. Leave it to the experts when it comes to tuning. Trust me.

Gilianz

A little preview

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Takeda CAI : FI Resonated TP : Stillen UD Pulley

victorofhavoc

no chatter from this page in a bit. Anyone planning on going to the autox race this weekend? race 1 of the season!

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Had a 2010 WRX- boy was it quick in a straight line, got a 2014 Z- man is she grippy in the corners-- then left the Z and later got a GTI, now back in an 09 racecar Z!

Gilianz

Alright, well I have to rotors on and the brake pads on. Just gotta get tires on the wheels then mount up and align them. Hopefully the bed in for the brakes are too much of a hassle. I spun the rotors after putting them on and it seemed like it was uneven. Hopefully that is just because it hasn't seated completely due to there not being tightened all the way.

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Takeda CAI : FI Resonated TP : Stillen UD Pulley

Ghostvette

Did you put enough lug nuts on to keep the rotor straight? If not, then that's why it felt uneven.

Put the wheels on, put the lug nuts on snug (don't torque yet), put the car on the ground, now torque to proper value. Press on the brake pedal a couple of times to seat the pads against the rotors before you start the car and move it. As long as you didn't get grease on the rotors when you assembled the caliper and pads to the bracket, you should be fine. I'm sure there are steps people take to 'bed' the pads, but in my experience, it's not really necessary. That being said, I wouldn't go out and try to go from 60 to zero in 3 seconds...

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2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/

Gilianz

Yeah, I put the wheels back on so I can drive to the shop. They straightened out. And I plan to just daily drive to bed them in. There is not many places i can go from 60 to 20 constantly in KC.

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victorofhavoc

Freeway ramps on i70 would work just fine...I used them for this purpose.

There are some pads/rotors that don't need a bed in process, and some really do. If yours do and you daily drive it without bed in, you'll notice some discoloration that looks like warping on the rotor. The only thing it will do is age your rotors faster (how much is arguable). If you ever track the car you'll notice some pedal vibration that will feel like brake fade, but isn't.

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Had a 2010 WRX- boy was it quick in a straight line, got a 2014 Z- man is she grippy in the corners-- then left the Z and later got a GTI, now back in an 09 racecar Z!

Gilianz

Alright, well here is the finished product. Also has anyone added a fog light to their Z yet? I'm thinking it would be something cool to add but looks complicated with all the wiring needed to be done.

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Takeda CAI : FI Resonated TP : Stillen UD Pulley

m3chhawk

Looks really good dude.

The fog light is easy. You just need to pull one of the tail lights. There is a DIY floating around on here that shows you which wires to tap. Just get a couple of high quality, insulated in-line wire taps and you won't have any issues.

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Gilianz

Hmm, so I'm entertaining the idea of selling my Tomei and going for a full replica partial carbon Zele and custom exhaust, If the guy hadn't sold it yet. My question is how much do you think it would be to get it painted? Unfortunately my car is not silver so would like to know before I make any decisions.

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Takeda CAI : FI Resonated TP : Stillen UD Pulley

tower74

Hmmm. I've still have a REAL rear ZELE rear never installed. I will almost give it away to get it out of my house. Hell, I will even deliver it...if it isn't to far.


When I had the front Zele installed, it cost me about $500 for them to paint the front. I also preinstalled it before giving it to them. That way they couldn't charge me for installation or fitment issues.

Gilianz

Hmm, well I would be all over that however I have a tomei that just would not fit unless some things were done to the bumper.

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victorofhavoc

easier to mod the exhaust than the bumper. There have been several people around the forums to make their dual tip into a quad to fit the Zele rear

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Had a 2010 WRX- boy was it quick in a straight line, got a 2014 Z- man is she grippy in the corners-- then left the Z and later got a GTI, now back in an 09 racecar Z!