Sooooo H&R spacers, anyone messed with them? **Update: Need to decide tomorrow!
 

Probably not going to go with coilovers on the car but spacers might look nice. Recommendations? I don't want wheels protruding any further than the fenders but I'm interested in what people do with front/back on the nismo car.

I can tell you, ichiba and H&R are the exact same. I have H&R on my rear tires and ichiba on my front wheels. You are really paying for the name, they are all made out of the exact same material. Go to FB Nissan on here (jomer) and he can hook you up with a really good price.

Size recommendations?

I don't have a nismo but with my stock 19" rays and sport package I went with 20mm all four corners. This ends up with the very outer edge of the tire exactly flush with the face of the body. These are h & r with no drop. At first I thought it may not be enough but 3/4" has more of an effect looks wise than you would expect.
I went we with h & r stud replacement based mostly on recommendations on here and because there was a local distributor with stock.

Thinking this will be my next project since the RC brake vents are cost prohibitive

I went with 20mm all around as well on my sport package rays. I went with the bolt-on ones, took me 10 minutes to put on. The stud replacement ones are cheaper but are more time consuming to install.

I think the ones with the stud replacements would make me feel more at ease.

Thats what I thought too, but the H&R I went with initially in the front, the studs that came with them were of lower quality than the stock studs, at least to me they were.

I agree and the first one took me about 45 minutes to do but after that I had the details down and did the rest in 20 minutes each. I didn't like the idea of lug nuts hidden behind the wheel where they can't be checked easily. I've checked the torque on mine several times after install and it hasn't changed. Just my .02. :tiphat:

I tossed around 20mm all around and checked out other members with that setup. Ultimately 20/25mm was the perfect setup for me i looovvveee the look with the coils. Z1Motorsports spacers though and no complaints.

I think the spacers' material is comparable across the H&R and ICHIBA brands, but not the type of spacers.

The DRS H&R are safer, and the same type is also offered by ICHIBA, but they're not as prevelent for some reason.

From what I've gathered from other people, I would install DRS spacers (with replacement studs) in the front, and DRM (studs built into spacers) in the rear.

Go 25mm rear and 20mm front with built in studs. I have that setup on my car. Works super well with me dropped on swifts. I used DRM all around. Not sure why everyone recommends DRS. I got 11 full cycle turns on my lugs...recommended is 8 turns.

For what its worth from a newbie to spacers I had ichiba 10mm drs and had a nasty vibration. I switched to 15mm H&R and now it runs smooth. I got mine from Charles @ b2autodesigns a forum sponsor and it was a simple process. There are some threads on here too that helped me solve the problem and lead to switching to H&R. Here is a link: http://www.the370z.com/wheels-tires/7937-spacers.html

Thanks for all the input folks. This will be my spring project. I had to promise the gf that I'd stop screwing with the car for ~a time~ after my exhaust and cats go on next week.

OMG! , Did you really just say Ichiba and H&R are the same??

H&R made in Germany! Ichiba is made in China!!! I would never put anything on my car made in China.

I have DRM H&R 20MM all around smooth as butter!

Lolllllllll

That makes no difference most companies after patents run out sell their complete designs to Chinese manufacturers. Same thing at a much lower cost.

I'm using project kics and recommend them. The price is kinda steep but well worth it for a strong spacer.

Yeah I think I'm probably going to do DRM H&R 20mm spacers all the way around based upon the "look" I'm going for.

20mm all around makes it look great. Especially after you lower it.

Dude, over at the G forms, people have had lots of issues with Ichiba! I would not trust it!

Nothing like your wheel breaking off at 80Mph!

Personally I went with the stud replacement option. I bought mine from z1 and the studs were more stout than the oem studs. the drm route adds to many points for possible failure for my likings.

What look will you be going for?

What camber are you going to run? Im running -2.5 on both sides and I need bigger spacers IMO. If youre going to be cambered a bit more youll want 20/25mm front 25/30mmrear.

ill post pics in a minute. Im running 20/25.

H&R spacers ftw!

I don't know that I want to lower it tbh.

I know people who ran H&R DRM for years and year with tons of miles no issues.

I would not want to run aftermarket studs, I be to afraid they break off.

The H&R DRM the studs coming off the spacer are very well done!

exactly, the oem studs are of much higher quality.

I have bolt on spacers all around and no issues.

drm is using aftermarket studs....the stock studs are used to bolt down the spacer that has the aftermarket studs built into it. You're still bolting the wheel down onto an aftermarket stud. You've effectively doubled the number of points for a moment which means more possible points of failure.

http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=HRTRAKSP01
DRS® Series
DRS Series spacers fit between the wheel and hub, and require exchanging the existing wheel studs for longer ones (studs are included).

DRM® Series
DRM Series spacers bolt to the hub with existing wheel studs and special nuts (included). Wheel is bolted to new DRM wheel studs.

I don't think I'm going to do the camber thing. I'm just going to push the wheelbase out a bit for that sleek/flush look.

(I don't understand the camber thing and think it looks silly. I'm sure it has a function but it's probably not something I would ever take advantage of and I'm sure it's hell on your tires)

370z's must be lowered, even if its just springs. Dont argue just do it.

Unless you lower your vehicle and get aftermarket camber arms you cant really modify the camber that much (if at all, somebody correct me if im wrong). The camber arms are mainly for lowered cars who end up with extreme negative camber and need to get it straightened up a bit.

We'll see. I don't see it happening though. Negotiating speed bumps with 18" cans worries me.

Im lowered on swifts, I scrape everywhere.

Yeah I think I'll just leave it (for now)

Camber arms help to keep your alignment in spec and can also give you ridiculous negative camber for guys looks for that slammed look.

Well what I was refering to with a -2.5 camber that is way different from what your talking about. If you look at my earlier pic of my rear you can see a slight slant on my wheel. But even lowering the car on springs will give you more than normal negative camber. Inspec is -1.3 to -2.7.

Im dropped 1.5" all around and have no problem in PA #1 state for worst roads :roflpuke2:

I rarely scrape and I daily my car. Only thing I scrape is my front bumper on that stupid plastic lip. I cut that back though by about a half inch and am fine now.

Hmmmm.....thats a pretty good idea!! Im going to try that.

Just use something really sharp to make it a clean cut. I used a smith and wesson military knife. It was like cutting through butter haha.

I attached a pic of how it looks with it cut back

:iagree: This is the correct way to think about this. I'm not clear on the posts here about quality of studs? On what basis are people saying this? Do the oem studs have a higher shear strength or something? Does someone have proof or test results? :shakes head:
It's a contradiction to say you're using DRM to keep the oem studs and then bolt the wheels to aftermarket studs. I hardly doubt that H&R is selling wheel spacers with studs of inferior quality or are somehow weaker than stock.

Thanks for the reply, I thought I was missing something here when everyone ignored that post and went on their merry way.

Thats not at all what some of us were saying..That was only like 1 or 2 people. And that kind of response can be easily turned around... Does someone have proof or test results that what was said isnt true? :shakes head:

I think the majority of us heard and took what you read to heart. No one was ignoring your post on the internet :rolleyes:

You are correct though that it is doubling the points of possible breakages. I think most of us use DRMs just for ease of install. Personally im only using them until I get wheels with crazier offsets. I can also say that as someone who gets sideways regularly and has done 130mph+(on closed course) the DRMs have held up and have no cracks or anything and all lugs are still torqued just fine.