oh hey you posted that in between me reading responses and posting
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08-23-2012, 09:19 PM | #498 (permalink) | |
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First off you can get el cheapo from Lowes for under $20. You don't need the billy-badass version. Next get buy the cheapest tube of any caulk you can to practice on glueing random stuff together before blowing an entire tube of sealant on the lights. Ok here's what you have to do in these steps: 1. Snip the tip of the tube. Be mindful that the larger the hole you snip on the applicator tip is how wide of a bead of sealant comes out. 2. The caulk gun should come with a little metal rod attached that is used to pierce the inside of the tube. This will be the most derogatory way I can instruct--think of giving yourself a cathedor. Shove the rod into the newly snipped hole of the applicator end and peirce the inside of the tube. If you don't do this you will soon know because the tube will explode in the gun. 3. Insert the sealant tube into the gun and pull the trigger until the sealant starts coming out. If you didn't pierce the tube prior to this step it will explode all over you. Enough said. 4. Get a feel of how it comes out and how much you have to apply. This is where some cheap **** comes in handy to get a feel for how it is going to apply. And as a side note if I was doing this to my car I would use clear sealant. Just my .02 |
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08-23-2012, 09:58 PM | #499 (permalink) |
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No problem man, we appreciate and welcome any advice we can get! Are you going to be there to help us out?
The reasoning behind getting the rubber butyl sealant (which might be more expensive) is that it isn't permanent and it's the same one used by the factory. Don't want to use something permanent in case we have to open the lights back up agian. Clear sounds like a good idea, but I didn't see any on amazon, so I'll have to go back and look again. Do you know of any other type of sealant that isn't permanent? |
08-23-2012, 11:20 PM | #502 (permalink) |
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I wouldnt chance it, if the dealership uses it, thats what I'd use. Just my opinion.
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08-24-2012, 01:13 AM | #504 (permalink) |
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If anything, I'd rather spend a few more dollars on something at or better than what the dealership uses, I for one, DO NOT want any condensation after the fact.
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08-24-2012, 08:40 AM | #506 (permalink) |
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Completely agree with sticking with the rubber butyl and if it only comes in black (and that is what the factory uses) I'd stick with it. I was only saying go clear just so you don't see a glob of black sealant somewhere but I don't even know how these headlights come apart soooo might not see any sealant.
I really want to stop by for assistance but I can't commit as I don't know my schedule. I start a new position right after Labor Day and it will involve working more weekends. |
08-24-2012, 09:20 AM | #507 (permalink) |
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I'll have to do more searching to see if it comes in clear, but didn't see any on my first quick look. I wonder if they have it at Lowe's/Home Depot. I remember someone in some thread saying that the factory headlights actually use rubber butyl tape as the sealant, which is easier to find.
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08-24-2012, 02:11 PM | #508 (permalink) | |
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08-24-2012, 02:20 PM | #509 (permalink) |
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My plan with this sealant, is once the headlight is broken down, I wanna remove all the factory sealant, clean up the area really well, and add new sealant. There's a reason for this though. And not everyone has to do it, Im a little more anal retentive with my stuff.
Once the seal on the headlights is broken, you'll have old sealant thats there, depending how old the car is of course, and sticking new sealant with the old sealant may or may not bond all that well, so I'd rather take a little more time, and just remove all the old sealant and use a new application.
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08-24-2012, 02:27 PM | #510 (permalink) |
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Yeah I'm with you.
Mike is shipping me his core swap calipers next week and I'm sending him mine to get powder coated. Might even be able to get it them done before the meet on the 15th.
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