travisjb

I was doing some research on a 370z I bought a while back and came across your build and realized that the 370z that I bought is your old 370z that’s you built. What an amazing build. I’ve gone though the whole car and it’s pretty much exactly as it was when you sold it. Just figured I would reach out to you because you put a lot of time into this car and it’s pretty cool to see that it’s still out there on the track. If you don’t mind if I reach out if I have any questions or issues, maybe you can walk me through some of your past experiences with the car. Not sure if you even go on this forum anymore.

Thanks
Josh

hi Travis, i hope you dont mind if I ask you a bit about our clutch. I have my 09 nismo and I always feel like my clutch is too long( its also soft as all sports clutch). I saw on ur journal that you were doing something about the clutch engagement points> I am just wondering if you can share a bit how did it improve?
Thanks in advance
Rikki

Hey Nate. The Motul 75W140 has been working fine for me... believe I used 75w90 for break in, if memory serves

These puppies get hot quick... I have mine running with a pump and cooler for track duty and it switches at 190F thermostat... usually takes only 1 lap to hit that temp... you will cook this thing pretty quick without added cooling, if you plan to track the car

G/l !

Hi Travis- I found a post a couple of years ago from you where you said you and others used Motul Gear FF 75W140 as your diff oil for your Carbonetic LSD. I've acquired an LSD and am wondering what fluid to use. How did that FF work for you, can you point me in the right direction (instead of buying the Carbonetic branded, high $$ oil)?

Many thanks!

Nate S.

Thanks again bud.

I think 12/8 would be the right balance for you, considering you don't want to sacrifice too much ride quality... I am assuming you will run more static camber - I run as much as high 2's but for a street car I'd run 2 flat with zero to 1/16 toe to minimize tire wear. I prefer immediate loading of the front tires on braking and turn in, hence the stiffer suspension. Yes, straight line braking and trail braking is different with a stiff front bound rate but you can manage understeer if you get an adjustable set of sways and by playing with tire pressure. A relatively more compliant rear will make a big difference in the rear stepping out.

Tl/dr 18/12 spring rate for track cars, 14/10 or 12/8 for street cars... get adjustable sways and try different tire pressures... for street with some track, front -2 camber and 0 to 1/16 toe out

Hmmm, thanks for he input! Now I wonder... 8k is the stock rear SR anyway and up front is 7.5k; running that much higher SRs up front it would seem that I would need to run a lot more static camber in order to maintain front cornering grip equal to stock (altering the cornering grip F/R just due to camber difference? and reducing front braking grip slightly?); and the car would tend to push through turns alot more regardless(?), do you find this to be true? In my limited track time I found myself wanting a little more grip up front especially on turn in but also when exiting a flat corner, if pushed to the limit gradually it seemed the car wanted to push slightly and on a couple of occasions I intentionally stepped the rear out slightly to correct for this. I was going to run 265/285 (slightly lowering the F/R difference) NT05s next tire change as a result (currently on stock size Michelin Pilot SSs).

Hey Nate, yes, I would recommend BC. And if you can spend a few hundred more, go for the ER over the BR... I think most folks will eventually want the extra adjustability, and they are likely going to hold up for more cycles with the external reservoir. You might thinking about calling BC Racing NA and talking with those guys directly... or call any of their distributors, eg Forged Performance

As for spring rates, I am running 18k / 16k right now if memory serves... rear is too stiff, I'll prob drop to 14k maybe even 12k... this car needs some rear compliance to stay hooked up... I think for a street application 12k/8k is about right... or you could go 14k/8k... depends on how much you plan to drop the car and what kind of track's you'll be running on, if any

As you may know, there are of course other great brands out there depending upon your budget... KW v3 and the new (albiet expensive) JRZ street series that Forged put together

Good luck

Hows it goin Travis, I'm considering getting coilovers sometime in the semi near future and would be glad to get your input. What made you choose the ones you have? Looking at BC BR or ER, or maybe one of the stance sets, not sure. Would like them to perform very well on track, but not make the car unlivable on the road (dont mind a stiff suspension, just want it to still feel like I have one ) and I probably need to be able to adjust the height back up to near stock for the roads in Va. Im also curious about your view on spring rates on this car, front vs rear. Thanks man,

Nate

Hey just wondering if you have anymore pics or vids of your car posted anywhere. I think it looks sick, would love to see more of it?