If you haven't heavily modified the car (reducing weight) just go with the recommended spring rates. Going with anything else requires corner weighting and calculations to come up with the proper spring rates, and that is probably more involved than you want to get at this point. You can swap the springs later for around 200 a set.
SS brake lines are something you can do if you have the cash. The rubber line is only about 5 or 6 inches long on our cars, so I don't personally feel it's worth it if you are only doing light tracking until it's time to actually replace them. Up to you though. Rotors or calipers.. I mean, if you have good rotors, you should be fine. Calipers.. well if you're sport package, you'll be fine. If not, you'll still be fine, you'll just outgrow your brakes after a few sessions.
Pads and fluid are a MUST. A good sintered pad for the track like Carbotechs or CL Brakes RC6's. Fluid, get Motul RBF600, you won't regret it. Good choice on the Fortune Autos. 510's with the Swift upgrade will be top notch for you. You can get them rebuilt for $150 every year or two and keep them tip top.
I would say that set up is not over kill at all. I don't know anything about those coil-overs other than that they are popular for the car show crowd. They're expensive enough that you can get some more track-proven units for the same or less money. Consider Fortune Auto 510 or 500's or BC Racing ER coil-overs. The Fortune Auto's in particular are a popular part for real race teams (albeit with customizations). Myself, I'm looking at K-Sport RR types, but they're super, super stiff with very little travel, probably not nice on the street!
The BC ER's are true type, meaning you can get the adjustable mid-links from SPL and get rid of the giant aluminum bucket in the back (the rear spring perch) and get much more toe-in adjustability. That's what I would do, rather than getting those Tanabe's. Not everything from Japan is better. :P
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