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Old 01-16-2015, 04:33 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Old 01-16-2015, 05:16 PM   #62 (permalink)
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I have my car mostly back together. I left some stuff off because I will be taking it apart in a week or two anyways. I bleed my clutch and it is only engaging at the bottom half of the stroke. I got frustrated so I bleed it again. I "volunteered" 2 siblings, one at the reservoir, one on the clutch pedal and I was under the car at the bleed line. 20 minutes under the car stepping on clutch, opening bleed, close clutch, let of clutch, repeat while the 3rd man watched the reservoir oil level. FAIL!!! The stupid pedal is still 1/2 dead. I stalled 2x test driving her. I then drove to my local guy and ask Johnny from Jtranz what the heck. He said, "I would change out the master cylinder then bleed the clutch again. It's not that bad with 2 people. It's about a 1hr job." I was like, wth!! I bought one and forgot all about it. Guess I will install it next off day and try again. My car is still drivable (I need to get to work, she is just a little harder to drive that's all). Man this clutch/flywheel makes some noise. CLank Clank Clank as I stop then Clank Clank again about 10 seconds after I stop.

And I looked at my odo, It read 37,965 miles not 39,765... I guess I got to climb back up to the attic and relable the box with my oem clutch.

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Old 01-16-2015, 05:28 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Hi Hi Rooftop. Hows the air up there?

As for the bold, nut, screw thing, Both of those ways are nice. I have a mag plate myself but I always seem to forget where things go unless I put it within relative close proximity of it. I only do this on big jobs. My memory is bad but not that bad. IDK, I have been doing it this way for a while and it work for me.

I do have a question for you guys with a boost controller. I might post a new thread in the other forum but maybe not. Anyhoo, I'm at a lost as to where to put the sensor for the boost-controller. This bung or whatever you call it needs to get welded on to the pipes somewhere. It would not be a problem if I was to leave the pipes unwrapped but I'm going to wrap them. Basically, I need to know how/where are you guys getting the bung thingy welded on at so I can get it welded (it's suppose to be angled from top down to reduce chances of early failure) so I can then wrap the pipe.

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Old 01-17-2015, 09:46 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Did you remove the transmission completely out from under the car? We did mine on straight up jack stands and installed the fork for the Z1 kit while the transmission was still under the car. It wasn't too bad.
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Old 01-18-2015, 12:25 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Did you remove the transmission completely out from under the car? We did mine on straight up jack stands and installed the fork for the Z1 kit while the transmission was still under the car. It wasn't too bad.
I removed the whole transmission. I installed the SpecialtyZ 6puck clutch/flywheel with Tilton csc kit. I had to remove the whole thing. Go back a page or two to view the pic.

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Old 01-19-2015, 05:48 PM   #66 (permalink)
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I only have a small update for the day. I received my UpRev cable they other day. That's just going to sit for a little while. I just finished changing out the clutch master cylinder. It was an easy job, cramped but easy. I now need to bleed the system but can't or should I say won't at the moment. My blocks water supply is nil. I think the construction up the street has something to do with it. What a beautiful day here in Houston. perfect day to work on the car. I hope my 3/4 bottle of Motul rbf600 is enough to bleed and fill the system. IF not, It's going to cost me $21 at the local motorcycle shop.

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Old 01-19-2015, 06:06 PM   #67 (permalink)
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I'd go buy a bottle just in case. Just don't open it unless you need it. It doesn't have an opened shelf life
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Old 01-19-2015, 06:32 PM   #68 (permalink)
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I'd go buy a bottle just in case. Just don't open it unless you need it. It doesn't have an opened shelf life
A 1/2 bottle should be plenty to bleed the clutch system ... if you know what you're doing. But if you're like just about anyone that starts a thread about clutch bleeding and have problems getting a firm pedal then it will take 1.5 bottles min lol

I try to use it up within a week or two and toss anything that older.
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Old 01-19-2015, 06:40 PM   #69 (permalink)
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I guess I should get another bottle then.. lol!!!

The bottle is new, I just opened her the other day when I bleed the system with the original CMC. The pedal is functional but the 1/2 half is dead. Now the new one is in so I wasn't sure if the 3/4 bottle is enough to bleed the whole system. I'll run out in a bit to grab another bottle. Or, maybe not since the water is not back on. I can't even wash my hand let alone a shower. grrr

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Old 01-19-2015, 06:42 PM   #70 (permalink)
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A 1/2 bottle should be plenty to bleed the clutch system ... if you know what you're doing. But if you're like just about anyone that starts a thread about clutch bleeding and have problems getting a firm pedal then it will take 1.5 bottles min lol



I try to use it up within a week or two and toss anything that older.

A week or so should be ok but once it gets condensation in its fuct
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Old 01-20-2015, 01:52 PM   #71 (permalink)
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I used about 3/5th of the original bottle of rbf600 to bleed the clutch system. The pedal is a lot better now. It now engages about 1.5" lower than it did with the stock equipment. I like the engagement to be up higher, but I will drive it around for a week and see how she holds up. Chuck said the pedal engagement can be adjusted. We will see.

This new clutch and flywheel chatters a lot! CLANT CLANK CLANK!!

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Old 01-20-2015, 01:57 PM   #72 (permalink)
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The master cylinder has a rod that extends through the firewall into the footwell. The rod has threads with a bracket that screws onto it. The bracket attaches to the clutch pedal via a clevis pin. If you disconnect the bracket from the clutch pedal, you can unscrew it some and then reconnect the pedal to raise the engagement point.
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Old 01-20-2015, 03:12 PM   #73 (permalink)
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I did not understand how or what you were talking about with the adjustment. I had to go grab the original and fiddle with it. Eureka! I understand and it took me 15 minutes to make the adjustment. I was spinning the whole thing and hot just the "U" part. I gave the "U" part 4 good spins or so to elongate the arm and it feel OEM again. Thanks you guys.





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Old 01-20-2015, 03:18 PM   #74 (permalink)
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Bingo! Glad it worked out for ya
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Old 01-20-2015, 03:20 PM   #75 (permalink)
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Hey, Are you able to put up a Sound Clip of the FI Non Res that you have? Like a drive by or something? I can't find any drive offs, just start ups and revs on Youtube.

Thanks
I made a quick vid with my brother driving by. It's not that good nor does it sound close to what she sounds like in person. Anyhoo, new phone and I have no idea on how to work it yet. First pass is a little over 3500, second is around 5000, both in 1st gear. Now that I think about it. I should of recorded the clank clank of the new clutch/fry.

Oh well.. Anyhoo, I'm linking a few links from my photobucket as I don't know which one to use.

http://vid226.photobucket.com/albums...pse1ytmkil.mp4

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid226.photobucket.co m%2Falbums%2Fdd107%2FThangbom321%2FNismo%2520Boost %2F20150120_1350141_zpse1ytmkil.mp4&title=">



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