YzGyz's turn!

YzGyz

I was SOO confused at first!! I originally cracked open the lock nut then spun the whole shaft as a whole. The thing would spin all in unison all the way down the to black gasket. That is NO good!! lol

Yeah, thanks to you and Chuck again.

YzGyz

Next time I get a few days off, the diff is getting dropped and the new cover goes on. I'm going to miss being able to jack the car up from it. Ohh well, all in the name of boost.

YzGyz

JARblue

this is the only reason I didn't get the finned cover when I replaced the diff bushing lol

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jwick

It's by far a better diff cover

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

YzGyz

I just having to get down low and then line up the small piece of wood so that I don't crunch up the pinch weld. It's just so much easier to put the jack on the rear differential and lift the back end. Then again, after the next few months, I will be just about done with putting toys on the car. There will only be maintenance which might be often since we all know I'm getting boost. My paranoid self will probably be inspecting the oil lines weekly since so many people have been having problems with it.

YzGyz

jwick

I check the oil lines every time before I start the car

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

YzGyz

Won't my Under Tray cover everything us from sight? Plus the car is fairly low.

YzGyz

jwick

It's a little easier for me. The G has a grill so I can see the oil cooler. Plus you can look from the side and see the lines and with a flashlight you can check the undershroud for oil pooling. I'm super anal

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

YzGyz

You freeking engineers..... Always with the bung hole stuff. I'm a ICU nurse and although I'm careful at work, when I'm anywhere else, I do just enough or a little bit more.

YzGyz

jwick

Can't help who you are

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

YzGyz

New rear differential bushings and finned NISMO cover installed last night. It took me a good 5hrs to do mostly alone. I only had help to drop and the FI axial back and differential.

I added my videos to the existing DIY thread for convenience and to keep things all in one place, reducing extra thread and clutter.

DIY: Whiteline rear differential bushings

YzGyz

YzGyz

I was digging in my photobucket account and found this. I forgot I had this thing. This was bone stock other than K&N short rams installed. It was humid that day and Something like 64 degree. Anyhoo, I thought my car was more powerful but I guess not.







YzGyz

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YzGyz

jwick

That's about right for a stock car on JTrans old mustang dyno

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

YzGyz

Small yet big update time.

I was finally getting use to driving with the new SpecialtyZ clutch/fly then a few days ago my clutch started to feel spongy. I re bleed the clutch with a 3 man operation to make sure no air entered the system. I had one sibling in the driver seat to depress the clutch and one at the oil reservoir to keep it topped off at all times. I was under the car with the wrenches and called out when to press and hold and I crack the bleeder open, let it run a second, close then call out, "let the clutch go." The clutch felt good again until yesterday evening as I was driving to work. It's spongy again and engagement is 1.5" off the floor. This is kinda of pissing me off. IT should not be this hard to get a simple clutch system to feel/work right. I plan to do as I have stated in another thread. I believe the new CSC requires more fluid = a longer fuller stroke of the clutch to get good release and engagement. It's something in like, the CSC oil area is increased while the MC oil area is the same so when you depress the OEM MC, the amount of oil that is squeeze into the CSC is less and lifting it less do the the larger oil volume.

So, my new plan of attack to rectify this problem is to screw in and shorten the rod attached to the MC as much as it can. I will then bleed the system once more. After bleeding the clutch system, I will then go and extend the MC rob as much as it will allow safely allow. This is all in hopes of getting as much oil into the MC as possible so that when it is depressed, a larger volume of oil is squeezed into the CSC and getting it to lift more = higher engagement point. At least that's what I think it will work out.

OHH, and I'm officially BROKE!!! Thanks Shasha!!

YzGyz

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YzGyz

YzGyz

I just finished doing the above. The clutch feels good again. I hope it stays that way. My back hates me right now.

BUT THE BIGGEST UPDATE OF ALL!!!! CAR PAID OFF!!!!!!!! B!tch IS MINE!!!

YzGyz

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YzGyz

YzGyz

My clutch is giving me problems but I'm working with Specialty Z on fixing the problem. The clutch engaging low again. It's almost on the floor like it was before. A smooth ride is out of the question as she stands.

Anyhoo, I received some presents, TurboSmart E-boost Street and some wrap.



The EBC is control bos is the size of a bi-fold wallet. That's a good thing as I can fit in the cubby until I decide to make something for it.

Jwick, that offer on helping with the install of the EBC still stands? I skimmed the PDF that came on the small CD and I don't understand. I need retard level instruction when installing electronics (except for audio systems).

Gonna go and update the list now.

YzGyz

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YzGyz