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Rangerz's Jornal (Video heavy)

Originally Posted by Rusty If you have any questions, I'm here too. You guy are awesome...thanks for the support reps all around!

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Old 01-20-2015, 12:08 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
If you have any questions, I'm here too.
You guy are awesome...thanks for the support reps all around!
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Old 01-30-2015, 07:49 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Been making some good progress on the break duct molds. I mis-calculated when I said I was closer to a finial mold than I thought, every time I spray the primer I find a little pin hole or a angle that I don't like. I think I have it about done now though. I have hopefully the last bit of putty on some defects and will spray another coat of primer sand with 400 grit then shoot it with clear coat a few times sanding with 1000 grit in between.

Here are a few pics of the molds in different stages over the last few days.

Laying some putty around the outlet, this was and is the hardest to get right. Also never use premixed Bondo that red crap sucks. If you can't control the amount of harder don't use it.





First primer coat.


Defect patching. Not as much as the picture suggests but, enough I wanted to take the primer back down pretty much to the bondo layer.


2nd coat of primer last night. You can see the one depression in the light.




And after a sand with 400 grit and a little patch work around the neck. Molds are setting on the impressions I took of the front bumper. With a 1/2 in CF border around the duct that leaves just under 1/4 in on the top and bottom that will show of the bumper white.



I was thinking of getting some red kevlar weave and stranding it out to give some highlights from the corners of the ducts to the 3" outlets??? Undecided on that still but, we shall see. So far pretty pleased with how they are turning out. I think as long as the vacuum bagging goes as planned these should work very well and look good too.
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Old 02-03-2015, 12:30 AM   #18 (permalink)
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WARNING: Don't do this.

So I sprayed the molds with black acrylic enamel Sunday night out in the garage and then after they were dry enough to move I brought them in the house to finish drying so the could be wet sanded.

Pic of the drying ducts:


Look pretty damn good. I was patting myself on the back. Well I get home today and wet sand them with 400 grit everything is fine. I wipe the residue off with a micro fiber cloth. Then just to be sure I got all the particles off I use some rubbing alcohol on another micro fiber cloth and take them back out to the garage to shoot another coat.

Worst of the krackle peel


The front here is turned out and is very smooth "what it all was supposed to look like"


So 2 things because I'm not sure which is the culprit. Don't use rubbing alcohol. The other is temperature. The house is 70 deg the garage low 30 to high 40's "where the paint is" I'm wondering if because the paint was cold and the molds warm from setting in the house all night affected how the paint cured???? I can get it cleaned up with some more sanding just thought I was going to the polish phase of the molds by tomorrow.

My NASA TT Lisence came today so it wasn't all bad

Stay tuned we should be laying fiber soon.
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Old 02-03-2015, 05:52 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangerz View Post
WARNING: Don't do this.

So I sprayed the molds with black acrylic enamel Sunday night out in the garage and then after they were dry enough to move I brought them in the house to finish drying so the could be wet sanded.

Pic of the drying ducts:


Look pretty damn good. I was patting myself on the back. Well I get home today and wet sand them with 400 grit everything is fine. I wipe the residue off with a micro fiber cloth. Then just to be sure I got all the particles off I use some rubbing alcohol on another micro fiber cloth and take them back out to the garage to shoot another coat.

Worst of the krackle peel


The front here is turned out and is very smooth "what it all was supposed to look like"


So 2 things because I'm not sure which is the culprit. Don't use rubbing alcohol. The other is temperature. The house is 70 deg the garage low 30 to high 40's "where the paint is" I'm wondering if because the paint was cold and the molds warm from setting in the house all night affected how the paint cured???? I can get it cleaned up with some more sanding just thought I was going to the polish phase of the molds by tomorrow.

My NASA TT Lisence came today so it wasn't all bad

Stay tuned we should be laying fiber soon.
This could be from a few things, but im going to say that the paint wasn't fully dry when you applied the second coat, which caused the first coat to lift.
When applying paint, you either apply coats within 15 min of each other or wait the full recommended time allowed to fully dry, which some spray paints require up to 48 hrs prior to second coat. The alcohol i don't believe would affect it & temperature would only cause it to run. The other problem could be that you didn't clean it properly prior to your first coat. That + cold could have caused it to crack as well.
Either way it sucks! U have to sand it down as much as possible and clean the heck out iof it. Bring a heater or blow dryer when you're spraying. Dry it quickly to touch and bring it inside to dry 100% for 24-48 hrs prior to wet sand and final coat.
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Old 02-03-2015, 08:05 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Thanks for those tips. I dont think it was green still I had just wet sanded them. I will definitely clean more throughly and the hair dyer is a good idea.
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Old 02-10-2015, 12:06 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Video of the last Winter X on 2-7-15 at Miller Motorsports park. It says winter but, it has been pretty dang warm the last week temp hit 68 deg about the time we were finishing up. I ended up getting 1st place in Street RWD and won by 4 seconds. A large part of that was due to new alignment I got the previous week.

I had a blast and was able to get a little track time before the NASA TT season starts in March.

The video is of two runs cut together my bumper camera didn't want to turn on for the fastest lap but all in all it was a couple of hundreds out of sync at some spots.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Opc0dPzLTQA
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Old 03-10-2015, 12:10 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I finished up through CF ducts, or nearly did still have a final trim to do around the perimeter. I think they actually turned out pretty well. Light, strong but, they have some slight cosmetic blemishes due to my process that swayed my decision to not use them. If I had a sacrificial front bumper for track only driving they would go on no question.

I used vacuum bagging for my technique , which works very well. Where I went wrong was I didn't leave my base layer of resin on the mold long enough for it to tack up before I applied the CF and wetted it out. I also used some PVA which was purchased last summer and I suspect it wasn't 100% up to the task. I did learn quite a bit on this "PRACTICE" run and am confident the next go around will be cosmetically acceptable.

Below are some pics of the process and the ducts in different stages of this finial stage of the build.

Making a pattern to cut the CF

vacuum bagging in the kitchen


Some various pics





I had fun and learned a lot for a first attempt it went well.
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Last edited by Rangerz; 03-10-2015 at 01:38 AM.
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Old 03-10-2015, 12:19 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Also as long as I'm updating... PF01 18 x 10.5 +38 with Toyo RA1'so for my track tire set up. We have annual Tech and a test & tune this Sat and the first event the end of the month.



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Old 03-10-2015, 11:48 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Lookin good. What alignment setting are you running?
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Old 03-10-2015, 12:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I went from - 2 to -2.75 with slight toe out up front and from -1.9 to -1.75 with slight toe in on the rear. I dont remember the exact toe figures without looking at my sheet but, both are pretty minimal.
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