Rangerz's Jornal (Video heavy)

Hotrodz · 01-20-2015, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

If you have any questions, I'm here too.

You guy are awesome...thanks for the support reps all around!

Rangerz · 01-30-2015, 07:49 PM

Been making some good progress on the break duct molds. I mis-calculated when I said I was closer to a finial mold than I thought, every time I spray the primer I find a little pin hole or a angle that I don't like. I think I have it about done now though. I have hopefully the last bit of putty on some defects and will spray another coat of primer sand with 400 grit then shoot it with clear coat a few times sanding with 1000 grit in between.

Here are a few pics of the molds in different stages over the last few days.

Laying some putty around the outlet, this was and is the hardest to get right. Also never use premixed Bondo that red crap sucks. If you can't control the amount of harder don't use it.

First primer coat.

Defect patching. Not as much as the picture suggests but, enough I wanted to take the primer back down pretty much to the bondo layer.

2nd coat of primer last night. You can see the one depression in the light.

And after a sand with 400 grit and a little patch work around the neck. Molds are setting on the impressions I took of the front bumper. With a 1/2 in CF border around the duct that leaves just under 1/4 in on the top and bottom that will show of the bumper white.

I was thinking of getting some red kevlar weave and stranding it out to give some highlights from the corners of the ducts to the 3" outlets??? Undecided on that still but, we shall see. So far pretty pleased with how they are turning out. I think as long as the vacuum bagging goes as planned these should work very well and look good too.

Rangerz · 02-03-2015, 12:30 AM

WARNING: Don't do this.

So I sprayed the molds with black acrylic enamel Sunday night out in the garage and then after they were dry enough to move I brought them in the house to finish drying so the could be wet sanded.

Pic of the drying ducts:

Look pretty damn good. I was patting myself on the back. Well I get home today and wet sand them with 400 grit everything is fine. I wipe the residue off with a micro fiber cloth. Then just to be sure I got all the particles off I use some rubbing alcohol on another micro fiber cloth and take them back out to the garage to shoot another coat.

Worst of the krackle peel

The front here is turned out and is very smooth "what it all was supposed to look like"

So 2 things because I'm not sure which is the culprit. Don't use rubbing alcohol. The other is temperature. The house is 70 deg the garage low 30 to high 40's "where the paint is" I'm wondering if because the paint was cold and the molds warm from setting in the house all night affected how the paint cured???? I can get it cleaned up with some more sanding just thought I was going to the polish phase of the molds by tomorrow.

My NASA TT Lisence came today so it wasn't all bad

Stay tuned we should be laying fiber soon.

Luciano13 · 02-03-2015, 05:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rangerz

WARNING: Don't do this.

So I sprayed the molds with black acrylic enamel Sunday night out in the garage and then after they were dry enough to move I brought them in the house to finish drying so the could be wet sanded.

Pic of the drying ducts:

Look pretty damn good. I was patting myself on the back. Well I get home today and wet sand them with 400 grit everything is fine. I wipe the residue off with a micro fiber cloth. Then just to be sure I got all the particles off I use some rubbing alcohol on another micro fiber cloth and take them back out to the garage to shoot another coat.

Worst of the krackle peel

The front here is turned out and is very smooth "what it all was supposed to look like"

So 2 things because I'm not sure which is the culprit. Don't use rubbing alcohol. The other is temperature. The house is 70 deg the garage low 30 to high 40's "where the paint is" I'm wondering if because the paint was cold and the molds warm from setting in the house all night affected how the paint cured???? I can get it cleaned up with some more sanding just thought I was going to the polish phase of the molds by tomorrow.

My NASA TT Lisence came today so it wasn't all bad

Stay tuned we should be laying fiber soon.

This could be from a few things, but im going to say that the paint wasn't fully dry when you applied the second coat, which caused the first coat to lift.
When applying paint, you either apply coats within 15 min of each other or wait the full recommended time allowed to fully dry, which some spray paints require up to 48 hrs prior to second coat. The alcohol i don't believe would affect it & temperature would only cause it to run. The other problem could be that you didn't clean it properly prior to your first coat. That + cold could have caused it to crack as well.
Either way it sucks! U have to sand it down as much as possible and clean the heck out iof it. Bring a heater or blow dryer when you're spraying. Dry it quickly to touch and bring it inside to dry 100% for 24-48 hrs prior to wet sand and final coat.

Rangerz · 02-03-2015, 08:05 AM

Thanks for those tips. I dont think it was green still I had just wet sanded them. I will definitely clean more throughly and the hair dyer is a good idea.

Rangerz · 02-10-2015, 12:06 AM

Video of the last Winter X on 2-7-15 at Miller Motorsports park. It says winter but, it has been pretty dang warm the last week temp hit 68 deg about the time we were finishing up. I ended up getting 1st place in Street RWD and won by 4 seconds. A large part of that was due to new alignment I got the previous week.

I had a blast and was able to get a little track time before the NASA TT season starts in March.

The video is of two runs cut together my bumper camera didn't want to turn on for the fastest lap but all in all it was a couple of hundreds out of sync at some spots.

Rangerz · 03-10-2015, 12:10 AM

I finished up through CF ducts, or nearly did still have a final trim to do around the perimeter. I think they actually turned out pretty well. Light, strong but, they have some slight cosmetic blemishes due to my process that swayed my decision to not use them. If I had a sacrificial front bumper for track only driving they would go on no question.

I used vacuum bagging for my technique , which works very well. Where I went wrong was I didn't leave my base layer of resin on the mold long enough for it to tack up before I applied the CF and wetted it out. I also used some PVA which was purchased last summer and I suspect it wasn't 100% up to the task. I did learn quite a bit on this "PRACTICE" run and am confident the next go around will be cosmetically acceptable.

Below are some pics of the process and the ducts in different stages of this finial stage of the build.

Making a pattern to cut the CF

vacuum bagging in the kitchen

Some various pics

I had fun and learned a lot for a first attempt it went well.

Rangerz · 03-10-2015, 12:19 AM

Also as long as I'm updating... PF01 18 x 10.5 +38 with Toyo RA1'so for my track tire set up. We have annual Tech and a test & tune this Sat and the first event the end of the month.

Mandingo · 03-10-2015, 11:48 AM

Lookin good. What alignment setting are you running?

Rangerz · 03-10-2015, 12:41 PM

I went from - 2 to -2.75 with slight toe out up front and from -1.9 to -1.75 with slight toe in on the rear. I dont remember the exact toe figures without looking at my sheet but, both are pretty minimal.

01-30-2015, 07:49 PM	#17 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 59 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 12	Been making some good progress on the break duct molds. I mis-calculated when I said I was closer to a finial mold than I thought, every time I spray the primer I find a little pin hole or a angle that I don't like. I think I have it about done now though. I have hopefully the last bit of putty on some defects and will spray another coat of primer sand with 400 grit then shoot it with clear coat a few times sanding with 1000 grit in between. Here are a few pics of the molds in different stages over the last few days. Laying some putty around the outlet, this was and is the hardest to get right. Also never use premixed Bondo that red crap sucks. If you can't control the amount of harder don't use it. First primer coat. Defect patching. Not as much as the picture suggests but, enough I wanted to take the primer back down pretty much to the bondo layer. 2nd coat of primer last night. You can see the one depression in the light. And after a sand with 400 grit and a little patch work around the neck. Molds are setting on the impressions I took of the front bumper. With a 1/2 in CF border around the duct that leaves just under 1/4 in on the top and bottom that will show of the bumper white. I was thinking of getting some red kevlar weave and stranding it out to give some highlights from the corners of the ducts to the 3" outlets??? Undecided on that still but, we shall see. So far pretty pleased with how they are turning out. I think as long as the vacuum bagging goes as planned these should work very well and look good too. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

02-03-2015, 12:30 AM	#18 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 59 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 12	WARNING: Don't do this. So I sprayed the molds with black acrylic enamel Sunday night out in the garage and then after they were dry enough to move I brought them in the house to finish drying so the could be wet sanded. Pic of the drying ducts: Look pretty damn good. I was patting myself on the back. Well I get home today and wet sand them with 400 grit everything is fine. I wipe the residue off with a micro fiber cloth. Then just to be sure I got all the particles off I use some rubbing alcohol on another micro fiber cloth and take them back out to the garage to shoot another coat. Worst of the krackle peel The front here is turned out and is very smooth "what it all was supposed to look like" So 2 things because I'm not sure which is the culprit. Don't use rubbing alcohol. The other is temperature. The house is 70 deg the garage low 30 to high 40's "where the paint is" I'm wondering if because the paint was cold and the molds warm from setting in the house all night affected how the paint cured???? I can get it cleaned up with some more sanding just thought I was going to the polish phase of the molds by tomorrow. My NASA TT Lisence came today so it wasn't all bad Stay tuned we should be laying fiber soon. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

02-03-2015, 08:05 AM	#20 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 59 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 12	Thanks for those tips. I dont think it was green still I had just wet sanded them. I will definitely clean more throughly and the hair dyer is a good idea. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

02-10-2015, 12:06 AM	#21 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 59 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 12	Video of the last Winter X on 2-7-15 at Miller Motorsports park. It says winter but, it has been pretty dang warm the last week temp hit 68 deg about the time we were finishing up. I ended up getting 1st place in Street RWD and won by 4 seconds. A large part of that was due to new alignment I got the previous week. I had a blast and was able to get a little track time before the NASA TT season starts in March. The video is of two runs cut together my bumper camera didn't want to turn on for the fastest lap but all in all it was a couple of hundreds out of sync at some spots. Mandingo likes this. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

03-10-2015, 12:10 AM	#22 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 59 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 12	I finished up through CF ducts, or nearly did still have a final trim to do around the perimeter. I think they actually turned out pretty well. Light, strong but, they have some slight cosmetic blemishes due to my process that swayed my decision to not use them. If I had a sacrificial front bumper for track only driving they would go on no question. I used vacuum bagging for my technique , which works very well. Where I went wrong was I didn't leave my base layer of resin on the mold long enough for it to tack up before I applied the CF and wetted it out. I also used some PVA which was purchased last summer and I suspect it wasn't 100% up to the task. I did learn quite a bit on this "PRACTICE" run and am confident the next go around will be cosmetically acceptable. Below are some pics of the process and the ducts in different stages of this finial stage of the build. Making a pattern to cut the CF vacuum bagging in the kitchen Some various pics I had fun and learned a lot for a first attempt it went well. anthonyy likes this. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY Last edited by Rangerz; 03-10-2015 at 01:38 AM.

03-10-2015, 12:19 AM	#23 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 59 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 12	Also as long as I'm updating... PF01 18 x 10.5 +38 with Toyo RA1'so for my track tire set up. We have annual Tech and a test & tune this Sat and the first event the end of the month. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY Last edited by Rangerz; 03-10-2015 at 01:39 AM.

03-10-2015, 11:48 AM	#24 (permalink)
Mandingo Track Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Dallas Posts: 625 Drives: '10 370z 6spd Rep Power: 3371	Lookin good. What alignment setting are you running? __________________ some mods

03-10-2015, 12:41 PM	#25 (permalink)
Rangerz Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Northern Utah Age: 59 Posts: 476 Drives: 2012 370 Nismo Rep Power: 12	I went from - 2 to -2.75 with slight toe out up front and from -1.9 to -1.75 with slight toe in on the rear. I dont remember the exact toe figures without looking at my sheet but, both are pretty minimal. __________________ Stillen Gen III/ NST/ Fast Intentions Non-Res HFC & 12" Resonated CF TDX/ Setreb series 9 OC/ SPL upper control arms/ Whiteline front & rear swaybars/ Uprev tuned by Seb@specialtyZ/ 319HP 262TQ/ Z1 PS Cooler/ Z1 SS Premium break lines/ CJM Road Race pump/Carbotech F:XP10 R:XP8 Nismo OC DIY

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