Can't you just turn the gain down on your boost controller?

You know all about that? :bowrofl:

I had to man. Couldn't resist.

You can't run less than waste gate pressure.

That's cold :rofl2: All in good fun, Cosmo :tup:

Wow! LOL

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So I've been noodling on this and might know why the boost reading is off. Ideally it would calculate boost using the SAE.MAP PID but that's not available on our car. So instead it calculates CALC.MAP using SAE.MAF, SAE.IAT, SAE.RPM, CONST.ENGINE_DISPLACEMENT, and CONST.VOLUMETRIC_EFFICIENCY. Since the SAE parameters are all available, we just have to put in the engine displacement (which is straightforward) and the volumetric efficiency in the vehicle settings. The tricky one is the volumetric efficiency. There are rough calculations you can do if you have your peak torque value. I'll have that after the tune tomorrow. I can calculate it off of my baseline run but that's not accurate with the turbo now installed. I might play with it a little tonight to see if I can dial it in by trial and error.

And most of third...

I'm on Michelin PSS 305's

Have them measure boost on the dyno and then calibrate the volumetric efficiency as they do dyno runs.

Yeah I was basically going to use the max boost from the dyno runs as a target and adjust the VE to match it. Just curious, how do they measure boost for the dyno runs?

Never done/seen it before, but I would assume they just tee the source on the charge pipe.

They will T-into whatever boost reference source is available (probably charge pipe).

Have you ruled out adding a boost gauge/sending unit of some sort? I really like the idea of having a measure of boost at the intake manifold separate from any calculations or ecu interpretations so that I know exactly what the engine is seeing. I have mine tapped into the rear of the intake manifold, which was very simple. Just my :twocents:

:iagree:

I haven't ruled it out. I was hoping the electronic gauges would work better. PLX does make a boost sensor module that I could hook up and use that value instead of a calculation. It just sucks because I have the original kiwi wifi and would need to get the newer one to hook up the sensor. I might just bite the bullet and do that though if I can't get an accurate reading from the calculation method. You're really never 100% sure with readings anyways. I had a boost gauge on my STi that was off by a couple psi too. My tuner called the gauge "optimistic".

My boost gauge is off by .2 psi.

There's a lot of guys selling gauges and stuff since they're changing their mind on boost. You might be able to vulture a gauge for cheap.

Post up if you ever figure out the DashCommand settings...would be nice to use that. I'm running Ventus RS-3 305/35/19 on the back and have a hard time keeping good traction when driving hard 1-3 gears in low 60F temps....really have to be sensitive w/ the throttle and pay attention to the boost coming on. I had 295 Michelin PSS just a couple months ago and they weren't any better...having an aftermarket differential helps a little I think.