2013 sport build

synolimit · 11-03-2013, 11:20 PM

Just took my longest trip since the diff cooler gauge install. Drove about 45min (80mph) 35 highway and 10-15 min side streets. It was a cold 50 degrees out and the whole time on the highway the diff never stopped rising in temp. It got to 194* before I pulled off. I'm going to have to take a longer trip to see if it goes higher. Interesting to see at such a low temp outside the diff gets so hot. I can't imagine a hot summer day on a race track. No wonder people don't like the OEM vlsd! If you could keep the diff temp at a constant lower temp I bet it performs well-er haha.

synolimit · 12-28-2013, 05:01 PM

All done.

So it was 34* out tonight but just driving again on the highway at 75 I was able to get the diff fluid up to 184*. I then hit the diff pump for the first time. Within 30 seconds it dropped to 160*. But it took another 9 minutes and 30 seconds to finish and reach its final temp of 144*. I was hoping for a cooler temp but I guess ill take it.

The reason why I was hoping for more was I know people have said their diff temp can reach 300* on the track. With only a 40* drop from this test means on the track the diff fluid might still reach 260*. I was hoping to go no more than 240* so the diff fluid wouldn't start to sheer off and hopefully the OEM VLSD could still do its job by keeping its temp within a good operating temp. I guess only time will tell now what happens. 4 months of winter to go!

Diff finished

Pics...

Pump and lines

Cooler with no scoop yet

Notched out arm incase diff flexes to much.

Fill hole

Scoop/cage getting painted. Extremely strong so wind can't move it at high speed.

cv129 · 12-29-2013, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Just took my longest trip since the diff cooler gauge install. Drove about 45min (80mph) 35 highway and 10-15 min side streets. It was a cold 50 degrees out and the whole time on the highway the diff never stopped rising in temp. It got to 194* before I pulled off. I'm going to have to take a longer trip to see if it goes higher. Interesting to see at such a low temp outside the diff gets so hot. I can't imagine a hot summer day on a race track. No wonder people don't like the OEM vlsd! If you could keep the diff temp at a constant lower temp I bet it performs well-er haha.

Always nice to have this kind of data, love it!

synolimit · 01-05-2014, 07:10 PM

Christmas time! Beautiful parts. SPC my *** haha.

synolimit · 01-08-2014, 05:51 PM

Yeah baby! Winter OEM nissan maxima wheels in a 18x7.5 +40. A nice retract of 63mm from my summer 18x10.5 +15's haha. Do they make a 63mm spacer haha?

synolimit · 01-12-2014, 12:30 AM

So it wasn't -7 outside today so I installed some used swift springs, SPL traction and camber arms. What a PITA! Normally lowering springs you can install with no spring collapser. But the swifts needed collapsed like 3" before I could start the nut. You ever try to compress a 10Kg spring with hand tools!! There must be a reason for this, talk about preload!

Anyways the initial drive was pretty shocking, but not after seeing camber numbers. Still body roll but you just barley touch the steering wheel and it whips into the other lane! On the track this thing is going to just dive into a corner like crazy! Initial lowering was...

BEFORE ---------------- AFTER
FL- 27.50" ------------- 26.625"= -0.875"
FR- 27.50" ------------- 26.50"= -1.0"
RL- 27.9375" ---------- 27.00"= -0.9375"
RR- 27.75" ------------ 26.9375= -0.8125"

I thought for used swifts the lowing would be more. I guess I'll have to wait and see if it settles more. My car is pretty light though so maybe that's why it sits higher. I checked camber too with my iPhone and toe with a tape measure and...

Before ------------------- After
FL/. -0.5 ---------------- -2.1
FR/. -0.8 ---------------- -1.6
RL/. -1.7 ---------------- -2.0
RR/. -1.2 ---------------- -2.1
Front Toe-
Rear Toe- in 0.125" ------------- Toe- in 0.59"

I may try again to align myself but its a pretty big PITA! If the traction arms can't mess with toe, ill make more toe plates but instead of drilling the hole center, I'll offset it to give more toe to get to zero.

SPOHN · 01-12-2014, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Normally lowering springs you can install with no spring collapser. But the swifts needed collapsed like 3" before I could start the nut. You ever try to compress a 10Kg spring with hand tools!! There must be a reason for this, talk about preload!

Its a PITA with an impact. Easier but still slow.

synolimit · 01-12-2014, 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN

Its a PITA with an impact. Easier but still slow.

First time i had to use a breaker bar over my 1/2" socket! I have a 500tq gun but the compressors at my moms. So turn by turn with me standing on the spring and collapsers i got it done. Nice leg and arm workout

jooonnn · 01-13-2014, 06:35 PM

Not sure if this is correct but arent swift springs already "preloaded" and dont require settling in?

Ps love the swift and spl setup

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jooonnn · 01-13-2014, 06:36 PM

Also, i am unfamiliar with how traction arms work - do they replace the need for new toe bolts?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Super Werty · 01-13-2014, 07:02 PM

This looks nasty. why did you cut the brace like this?

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

synolimit · 01-13-2014, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jooonnn

Not sure if this is correct but arent swift springs already "preloaded" and dont require settling in?

Ps love the swift and spl setup

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Any spring will settle some. Preloaded means once installed the springs tight. Unloaded you can hold the strut in your hand and move the spring around. I'm sure the OEM is tight too since its compressed about an inch under the top hat, but the swifts 10kg vs 7 something OEM.

synolimit · 01-13-2014, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jooonnn

Also, i am unfamiliar with how traction arms work - do they replace the need for new toe bolts?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Still figuring that out.

synolimit · 01-13-2014, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Super Werty

This looks nasty. why did you cut the brace like this?

Why? Why not? Its a little slit, nbd.

carlitos_370z · 01-27-2014, 09:41 AM

Nice build my friend! Im thinking on buy the same wheels enkie rpf01 but 18x9.5 & 18x10.5 +15 all arround

11-03-2013, 11:20 PM	#46 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Just took my longest trip since the diff cooler gauge install. Drove about 45min (80mph) 35 highway and 10-15 min side streets. It was a cold 50 degrees out and the whole time on the highway the diff never stopped rising in temp. It got to 194* before I pulled off. I'm going to have to take a longer trip to see if it goes higher. Interesting to see at such a low temp outside the diff gets so hot. I can't imagine a hot summer day on a race track. No wonder people don't like the OEM vlsd! If you could keep the diff temp at a constant lower temp I bet it performs well-er haha. cv129 likes this. __________________ 13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 11-03-2013 at 11:24 PM.

12-28-2013, 05:01 PM	#47 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	All done. So it was 34* out tonight but just driving again on the highway at 75 I was able to get the diff fluid up to 184. I then hit the diff pump for the first time. Within 30 seconds it dropped to 160. But it took another 9 minutes and 30 seconds to finish and reach its final temp of 144. I was hoping for a cooler temp but I guess ill take it. The reason why I was hoping for more was I know people have said their diff temp can reach 300 on the track. With only a 40* drop from this test means on the track the diff fluid might still reach 260. I was hoping to go no more than 240 so the diff fluid wouldn't start to sheer off and hopefully the OEM VLSD could still do its job by keeping its temp within a good operating temp. I guess only time will tell now what happens. 4 months of winter to go! Diff finished Pics... Pump and lines Cooler with no scoop yet Notched out arm incase diff flexes to much. Fill hole Scoop/cage getting painted. Extremely strong so wind can't move it at high speed. cv129 likes this. __________________ 13 370z-

01-05-2014, 07:10 PM	#49 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Christmas time! Beautiful parts. SPC my *** haha. jooonnn likes this. __________________ 13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 01-05-2014 at 07:12 PM.

01-08-2014, 05:51 PM	#50 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	Yeah baby! Winter OEM nissan maxima wheels in a 18x7.5 +40. A nice retract of 63mm from my summer 18x10.5 +15's haha. Do they make a 63mm spacer haha? __________________ 13 370z-

01-12-2014, 12:30 AM	#51 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	So it wasn't -7 outside today so I installed some used swift springs, SPL traction and camber arms. What a PITA! Normally lowering springs you can install with no spring collapser. But the swifts needed collapsed like 3" before I could start the nut. You ever try to compress a 10Kg spring with hand tools!! There must be a reason for this, talk about preload! Anyways the initial drive was pretty shocking, but not after seeing camber numbers. Still body roll but you just barley touch the steering wheel and it whips into the other lane! On the track this thing is going to just dive into a corner like crazy! Initial lowering was... BEFORE ---------------- AFTER FL- 27.50" ------------- 26.625"= -0.875" FR- 27.50" ------------- 26.50"= -1.0" RL- 27.9375" ---------- 27.00"= -0.9375" RR- 27.75" ------------ 26.9375= -0.8125" I thought for used swifts the lowing would be more. I guess I'll have to wait and see if it settles more. My car is pretty light though so maybe that's why it sits higher. I checked camber too with my iPhone and toe with a tape measure and... Before ------------------- After FL/. -0.5 ---------------- -2.1 FR/. -0.8 ---------------- -1.6 RL/. -1.7 ---------------- -2.0 RR/. -1.2 ---------------- -2.1 Front Toe- Rear Toe- in 0.125" ------------- Toe- in 0.59" I may try again to align myself but its a pretty big PITA! If the traction arms can't mess with toe, ill make more toe plates but instead of drilling the hole center, I'll offset it to give more toe to get to zero. __________________ 13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 01-12-2014 at 12:51 AM.

01-13-2014, 06:35 PM	#54 (permalink)
jooonnn Enthusiast Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: South Carolina Posts: 270 Drives: 2013 Nismo Rep Power: 13	2013 sport build Not sure if this is correct but arent swift springs already "preloaded" and dont require settling in? Ps love the swift and spl setup Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ Try things once to see how it feels. Try things a second time to make sure you didn't like it

01-13-2014, 06:36 PM	#55 (permalink)
jooonnn Enthusiast Member Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: South Carolina Posts: 270 Drives: 2013 Nismo Rep Power: 13	Also, i am unfamiliar with how traction arms work - do they replace the need for new toe bolts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ Try things once to see how it feels. Try things a second time to make sure you didn't like it

01-27-2014, 09:41 AM	#60 (permalink)
carlitos_370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Puerto Rico Posts: 7,157 Drives: 13 Nissan 370Z SP M6 Rep Power: 7586	Nice build my friend! Im thinking on buy the same wheels enkie rpf01 but 18x9.5 & 18x10.5 +15 all arround

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