2013 sport build

synolimit

I don't have fangs. It would of also been messy and not attached to well with the grates of the grill. These also are the cheapest way I wanted to attach hose to and with the least amount of bends.


So I'm making my own camber/toe bolt lockout kit. The 10.9 bolts can be bought at autozone or advanced auto for like $2 each and the t6061 plates can be made super cheap with a simple hole drilled in the middle that needs to sit in between the grooves on the sub frame (1.33-1.34"). My question is if I install now what will my camber do? Using a level pressed up against my tires (to long to go rim to rim of the wheel which would be a more accurate number) and my iPhone sitting flush against the level, my camber is -1.9 drivers and -1.4 passenger. Any idea if ill go more camber one way or the other?

FYI front is drivers side -0.5 and passenger is -0.8 so it seems like it works as everything seems factory spec since I'm all stock.






Well I just measured toe. Not ideal, 1. Because I used a tape measure and 2. The only way to measure was not in the middle of the wheel. I got only about 1/4 way up the tire. However I did get a rear measurement of about 68 1.5/16th and a front measurement of 68. Therefore the rear tires are toed in 1.5/16th of an inch. That's factory yes?





Well I'm inpatient so I decided to see what would change by installing the toe bolts. *To my surprise the numbers didn't do what I was thinking they'd do. *




Before install...
Driver camber -1.9
Passenger cam -1.4
Rear toe 0.094"




After install
Driver camber -1.8
Passenger cam -1.3
Rear toe 0.094"




Basically nothing happened which is awesome! *Because 1. I don't need to take them off and 2. Everything's in spec. *




Now I was scared because first I just installed the passenger side and measured and the toe was at 0.25" which is out of spec. *I thought "o great, after the drivers side ill be 0.5" or something. *But doing the drives pulled it right back where it was. *Now I did look at the factory marks and it looked like the eccentric bolts were straight up and down so they weren't giving any adjustment anyhow. *Later ill tackle the camber bolts.







Well I just finished. Total about $9 since I bought 4 more nuts since these nuts aren't lock nuts like the OEM ones are, so I doubled them up. The camber is now, drivers side -1.7 and passenger -1.2. So by adding the locket kit I made, I lost -0.2 camber on both sides which is fine till i get the arms because its still within spec and better for not eating up tires. Overall goal will be -2 to -1.5 so the arms should be pretty close in length if I go -1.5. Any suggestions for street and track rear camber?

The final toe is 0.125. Again within factory spec but that's the max amount of toe (1/8th"). I guess at this point I need to install the swifts and check again down the road once they settle. Fingers crossed I only need to buy camber arms.

PS, the exhaust didn't fit after i installed resonators so I made some slits in the pipe to bend it in the directions I needed and then welded the cuts. I only had regular mig wire so hence the black exhaust paint to protect from rusting.

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13 370z-