I have been switching between R888 in 295 on a 10.5" square setup and and nt01 315 on a 11" setup and I really like the nt01's as they provide great feedback and grip. The R888's are no slouch but they seem to have less but good grip and are harder to manage at the limit. Once they start making noise you are at the tires limit for the most part. I think the Toyo's are faster on acceleration as they are lighter and smaller diameter. The Nitto's are faster through turns and have better braking efficiency. That has been my experience so far.

Just for fun, here is the stack.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...efd92b7649.jpg
Can you say “meaty”??
These are 315s. In person they lead me to suspect that 275s in front will be enough. Putting those 315s up front seems like huge overkill. But we will see...

DAMN that's alot of rubber

That’s what she... never mind.
Here is my Forza paint job mock up. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0112e3bb65.jpg

So...you'll going to paint a red car, blue. What's your base color going to be?

:drool:

It's a very dark blue. almost navy. Its called galaxy blue. The stripe is a bone, off white to tone down the contrast and better match with my exhaust's ceramic coat.

No metallic and no buffing out or wet sanding the orange peel. because, you know... race car. This has to be as repeatable and fixable as I can make it.

We'll be spraying OTO in the inside and doing a nice grey primer and guide coat to get her mostly straight.

ps the photo above is just a prelim sketch off forza 7 my blue is less purple and much darker

:driving:

Surfdog's 09 journal
 

In other news the Z is finally going in to get her JWT valve lash set. (It came way off from IPP) as I’m going to have the front cover off and the cams out anyhow as well as redoing all the lash, I’m going to put on new timing chains and tensioning bits in there as well as upgrading to the JWT C2 cam (That I thought they put in the first time...)

... then retune which includes dyno runs on the EDC and a reflash of the VVEL motors etc.

Sheesh! such a deal.


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How far off is the lash?

Enough to rattle badly. I won’t have numbers til tear down begins.

Cold Spec is .012-14 if I remember right on the intakes they are all over but one is as much as .017. Exhaust cams are about .03 over spec in the worst case. Basically about 1/3 the valves are out of spec on both intake and exhaust side.

Mystery solved.

I’m having it all redone starting today. IPP has said they will cover the repair. I hope they come through. This was a pretty egregious F-up from the machine shop they use. One valve had a few thousands under lash and that’s actually a bit scary. I’m with a pretty good tech. Hopefully he can get the lash sorted on his first go but there is a little trial and error that goes into this to get the buckets all sorted. Either way after bony J’s of pulling out my hair trying to get the Z back in one piece we are in the home stretch.

Of course I still may have to reflash the VVELs and retune but... baby steps.

Making progess. :tup: Even tho it's a major PITA. :shakes head:

I can’t wait to run around in it once we’re all tuned up.


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Lash on JWT cams is 11-13 mills I had most at 14 and 15.

Lash on intakes is 14. Some were close, one was at 17.

We’re getting there.

The coupe has gone to my buddy’s shop for some pretty welds on my diff cooler and oil cooler. Also for a bit of help wiring in my oil and pressure gauges (my solutions were a bit ugly)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c1f8645203.jpg