Mitco39's Build

GaleForce · 01-25-2013, 04:57 PM

It used to be 10 seconds = roll bar. Around here at least.

I don't think you'll have to worry about it. No traction = slow time

Mitco39 · 01-25-2013, 05:10 PM

Hope not, haha time will tell. I just cant see myself putting a roll bar, that turns it into a track car instead of a DD in my opinion.

Mitco39 · 01-25-2013, 11:07 PM

Got some more time out in the Garage tonight and since the PLX gauges showed up today I was able to start running the wiring for all those. I am pretty happy with the overall look of the engine bay.

Try as I might I couldn't figure out how to better route everything, I think once I put back on the top strut it will cover everything up more and clean it up. I ran the wires down to the oil pressure sender location, I have to go out and get some 1/8" npt fittings and try and figure out how to add both a oil temp and other oil pressure sensor. It looks like 3 T's in a row might make it to long and come to close to the belt, but we'll see once I get it apart.

One thing I need a bit of advice on is the routing of the O2 sensor, currently I tucked it up along the passenger side of the body but it is still fairly close to the exhaust. That might change here if I can find a better way to route the line. The pictures dont really illustrate the route I took for the O2 line, the Iphone is not the greatest for this.

There is just so much piping everywhere to make sure it stays clear of the exhaust.

I also have to figure out where I can hide these PLX modules in the car somewhere, I am hoping there is a bunch of room behind the dash somewhere to tuck them in. Again a crappy Iphone pic.

Anyways I had to stop to go to hockey, Ill probably spend most of tomorrow in there if I dont stay up to late drinking. haha.

Cheers!

GaleForce · 01-26-2013, 08:50 AM

I started running the O2 wires like you did but I ended up running the wires up and over the transmission with the waste gate hoses and then in the driver side firewall.

There is room to install things everywhere. I mounted the module for my EVC-s on top of the radio, the module for the Defi gauges between the radio and heater core. Once you pull the glove box you'll see some room. Also behind the passenger side kick panel, and under the passenger seat... You shouldn't have a problem hiding things.

Mitco39 · 01-26-2013, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaleForce

I started running the O2 wires like you did but I ended up running the wires up and over the transmission with the waste gate hoses and then in the driver side firewall.

There is room to install things everywhere. I mounted the module for my EVC-s on top of the radio, the module for the Defi gauges between the radio and heater core. Once you pull the glove box you'll see some room. Also behind the passenger side kick panel, and under the passenger seat... You shouldn't have a problem hiding things.

I thought about going to the DS instead as well I just figured this way I have everything coming in on the one side. I think when I pull the trans to do the clutch I will just zip tie it further up under the firewall and this should work just fine. Right now its not touching any exhaust piping so it should be ok.

And I figured as much, one of the 3 gauges is on back order so I think I will wait to tear apart the dash until I atleast know it is on its way. I Dont want to forget where everything goes, haha. I started putting on the rear springs and working the roll bars last night. This will keep me busy most of today I would assume.

I need to go out and buy a heater for the garage (its about 5 degrees in there) to install the matting. GT said I need it to be atleast room temperature to have any luck getting it where I want it.

GaleForce · 01-26-2013, 11:49 AM

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing with the O2 sensor, have everything enter the car at the same point. In order for me to do that, I wouldn't be able to reach the disconnect for the sensor. Yes, I can just unscrew it if I needed but it wasn't sitting well with me. By going over the tranny I was able to make a small coil of wire with the disconnect within reach. It was a pain in the butt to do but now I can unplug the O2 sensor and drop the downpipe in one piece if I need to.

Sounds like you're making good progress on your car.

I took a break, too cold in the garage lately.

Mitco39 · 01-26-2013, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaleForce

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing with the O2 sensor, have everything enter the car at the same point. In order for me to do that, I wouldn't be able to reach the disconnect for the sensor. Yes, I can just unscrew it if I needed but it wasn't sitting well with me. By going over the tranny I was able to make a small coil of wire with the disconnect within reach. It was a pain in the butt to do but now I can unplug the O2 sensor and drop the downpipe in one piece if I need to.

Sounds like you're making good progress on your car.

I took a break, too cold in the garage lately.

Ah I get what your saying, if I cant get over the fact that it bugs me I might do the same thing. The plug on this 02 sensor that came with the PLX is quite different to the LC1 that I had bought, the plug is only about 10 inches or so from the O2, so I just zip tired it to the wastegate tubing and tucked it as far away from the exhaust as possible. Either way the trans will be coming out within a week of it leaving my garage in the spring. I believe I have access to a lift and trans jack so I will probably just do it all myself and I will probably just worry about it then.

It still pretty cold for you guys down there? Were supposed to have a high of -3 today.

GaleForce · 01-26-2013, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

Ah I get what your saying, if I cant get over the fact that it bugs me I might do the same thing. The plug on this 02 sensor that came with the PLX is quite different to the LC1 that I had bought, the plug is only about 10 inches or so from the O2, so I just zip tired it to the wastegate tubing and tucked it as far away from the exhaust as possible. Either way the trans will be coming out within a week of it leaving my garage in the spring. I believe I have access to a lift and trans jack so I will probably just do it all myself and I will probably just worry about it then.

It still pretty cold for you guys down there? Were supposed to have a high of -3 today.

You'll be fine with what you did. If my plug was only 10" away I would do exactly what you did. I don't know why Innovate Motorsports put the plug where they did.

Warmer today (-6), but I haven't gotten out to the garage yet. I'm Mr.Mom until 3:30pm.

tibal · 01-26-2013, 05:59 PM

I love seeing these pics. I definitely am going to be coming to you for assistance when wiring up my plx boost/airvacuum. Did you just use a basic in line relay from the battery?

Mitco39 · 01-26-2013, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tibal

I love seeing these pics. I definitely am going to be coming to you for assistance when wiring up my plx boost/airvacuum. Did you just use a basic in line relay from the battery?

Thanks Tibal, I am not one for taking pictures while doing all the mods but I been trying to take a few after I am done in the garage for the night. Since the PLX modules are not water resistant I opted to route everything into the car. I currently have a 4mm boost line running in through the firewall and I will connect to the module when I tear apart the dash. I think I will just tap into a ACC power source in the car, ill have to see how much power they all need. If its on the high end then yes I will relay to the battery.

Mitco39 · 01-26-2013, 10:39 PM

I spent most of the afternoon out in the garage and finished installing the lowering springs in the rear as well as the sway bar and end links. I didnt take pictures of this but it looks exactly like it does in the DIY thread. All that went pretty smoothly.

The front struts were a bit more work to get out. I had a 2ft breaker bar on the lower strut bolt and struggled to break it free. I had to put all my weight into it and bounce on it to get it to come free. The spring compressor that Mark (Whee!) suggested worked great, I did take some pictures of this. It was very tight and just barely gave me enough compression, I had to put all my weight on the strut ontop of the spring compressor to get the nut on the end of the rod. But they are on! I am waiting for my SPC camper arms now to re-install the struts and finish up the front end.

Tomorrow I might start pulling the trunk apart and installing the rear-view camera and GT matting.

I bought a small electric heater to heat the garage, it still probably will be a bit to cold for the matting. I was thinking I might put a sheet at a time in the oven at a very low temperature, it would soften it right up and allow me to mold it into the car. We'll see. haha

GaleForce · 01-26-2013, 10:46 PM

Looking good Mitch. I'm interested in the front camber arms, let me know what you think of them when you get them.

Mitco39 · 01-26-2013, 10:49 PM

Thanks Jason, I will do that and take some pictures of them installed when they show up.

Mitco39 · 01-26-2013, 10:52 PM

Also I forgot to mention, the stock springs had a rubber wrap around the bottom of the springs that were siliconed to the stock spring. I took it off and added it to the lowering springs. I used a zip tie to hold it to the spring and then once it was installed the pressure of the spring will hold it on there.

I read a thread here recently where a guy was having issues with a creek when going over bumps and did not want to take any chances of this happening to me.

1cleanZ · 01-27-2013, 10:03 PM

Car looks great man, but damn you need to get rid of those hideous wheels on that Chevy

01-25-2013, 04:57 PM	#46 (permalink)
GaleForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 21,749 Drives: Varis Arising II Rep Power: 51865	It used to be 10 seconds = roll bar. Around here at least. I don't think you'll have to worry about it. No traction = slow time __________________ >>>GaleForce's Build<<< >>>FaceBook @3GsCustoms<<<>>>Instagram @GaleForce370z<<< Varis Kamikaze-Z

01-25-2013, 05:10 PM	#47 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 132	Hope not, haha time will tell. I just cant see myself putting a roll bar, that turns it into a track car instead of a DD in my opinion. __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

01-25-2013, 11:07 PM	#48 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 132	Got some more time out in the Garage tonight and since the PLX gauges showed up today I was able to start running the wiring for all those. I am pretty happy with the overall look of the engine bay. Try as I might I couldn't figure out how to better route everything, I think once I put back on the top strut it will cover everything up more and clean it up. I ran the wires down to the oil pressure sender location, I have to go out and get some 1/8" npt fittings and try and figure out how to add both a oil temp and other oil pressure sensor. It looks like 3 T's in a row might make it to long and come to close to the belt, but we'll see once I get it apart. One thing I need a bit of advice on is the routing of the O2 sensor, currently I tucked it up along the passenger side of the body but it is still fairly close to the exhaust. That might change here if I can find a better way to route the line. The pictures dont really illustrate the route I took for the O2 line, the Iphone is not the greatest for this. There is just so much piping everywhere to make sure it stays clear of the exhaust. I also have to figure out where I can hide these PLX modules in the car somewhere, I am hoping there is a bunch of room behind the dash somewhere to tuck them in. Again a crappy Iphone pic. Anyways I had to stop to go to hockey, Ill probably spend most of tomorrow in there if I dont stay up to late drinking. haha. Cheers! tibal likes this. __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

01-26-2013, 08:50 AM	#49 (permalink)
GaleForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 21,749 Drives: Varis Arising II Rep Power: 51865	I started running the O2 wires like you did but I ended up running the wires up and over the transmission with the waste gate hoses and then in the driver side firewall. There is room to install things everywhere. I mounted the module for my EVC-s on top of the radio, the module for the Defi gauges between the radio and heater core. Once you pull the glove box you'll see some room. Also behind the passenger side kick panel, and under the passenger seat... You shouldn't have a problem hiding things. O&G likes this. __________________ >>>GaleForce's Build<<< >>>FaceBook @3GsCustoms<<<>>>Instagram @GaleForce370z<<< Varis Kamikaze-Z

01-26-2013, 11:49 AM	#51 (permalink)
GaleForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 21,749 Drives: Varis Arising II Rep Power: 51865	Yeah, I was thinking the same thing with the O2 sensor, have everything enter the car at the same point. In order for me to do that, I wouldn't be able to reach the disconnect for the sensor. Yes, I can just unscrew it if I needed but it wasn't sitting well with me. By going over the tranny I was able to make a small coil of wire with the disconnect within reach. It was a pain in the butt to do but now I can unplug the O2 sensor and drop the downpipe in one piece if I need to. Sounds like you're making good progress on your car. I took a break, too cold in the garage lately. __________________ >>>GaleForce's Build<<< >>>FaceBook @3GsCustoms<<<>>>Instagram @GaleForce370z<<< Varis Kamikaze-Z

01-26-2013, 05:59 PM	#54 (permalink)
tibal Track Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Safest Town In America Posts: 987 Drives: TT-370Z and 2.5RS Rep Power: 17	I love seeing these pics. I definitely am going to be coming to you for assistance when wiring up my plx boost/airvacuum. Did you just use a basic in line relay from the battery? __________________ 2010 - PG - M6 - 370zTT 453/409 6lbs IG @TRbal10 TEAM FLY1 MOTORSPORTS

01-26-2013, 10:39 PM	#56 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 132	I spent most of the afternoon out in the garage and finished installing the lowering springs in the rear as well as the sway bar and end links. I didnt take pictures of this but it looks exactly like it does in the DIY thread. All that went pretty smoothly. The front struts were a bit more work to get out. I had a 2ft breaker bar on the lower strut bolt and struggled to break it free. I had to put all my weight into it and bounce on it to get it to come free. The spring compressor that Mark (Whee!) suggested worked great, I did take some pictures of this. It was very tight and just barely gave me enough compression, I had to put all my weight on the strut ontop of the spring compressor to get the nut on the end of the rod. But they are on! I am waiting for my SPC camper arms now to re-install the struts and finish up the front end. Tomorrow I might start pulling the trunk apart and installing the rear-view camera and GT matting. I bought a small electric heater to heat the garage, it still probably will be a bit to cold for the matting. I was thinking I might put a sheet at a time in the oven at a very low temperature, it would soften it right up and allow me to mold it into the car. We'll see. haha GaleForce likes this. __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

01-26-2013, 10:46 PM	#57 (permalink)
GaleForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 21,749 Drives: Varis Arising II Rep Power: 51865	Looking good Mitch. I'm interested in the front camber arms, let me know what you think of them when you get them. __________________ >>>GaleForce's Build<<< >>>FaceBook @3GsCustoms<<<>>>Instagram @GaleForce370z<<< Varis Kamikaze-Z

01-26-2013, 10:49 PM	#58 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 132	Thanks Jason, I will do that and take some pictures of them installed when they show up. __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

01-26-2013, 10:52 PM	#59 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 132	Also I forgot to mention, the stock springs had a rubber wrap around the bottom of the springs that were siliconed to the stock spring. I took it off and added it to the lowering springs. I used a zip tie to hold it to the spring and then once it was installed the pressure of the spring will hold it on there. I read a thread here recently where a guy was having issues with a creek when going over bumps and did not want to take any chances of this happening to me. __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

01-27-2013, 10:03 PM	#60 (permalink)
1cleanZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Twin Cities, MN Posts: 1,132 Drives: '09 PW Nismo Rep Power: 20	Car looks great man, but damn you need to get rid of those hideous wheels on that Chevy __________________ 2009 PW Nismo #0021 -My Built Progress >>1cleanG to 1cleanZ<< Team NextLevel

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Which HFC for a TT or SC Build	swiss370Z	Forced Induction	21	09-11-2012 09:10 AM
Possible Nos build	triadz	Forced Induction	7	04-06-2012 11:30 AM
THE "Lets argue about Bullitt's build with out ruining Bullitt's build thread" THREAD	Reaper42	Forced Induction	14	01-22-2011 06:24 PM
My build	toner123	Forced Induction	108	09-10-2010 09:31 AM
Datsun Roadster 1600...To build or not to build	motoextreme	The Lounge (Off Topic)	66	02-13-2010 01:40 AM