A cord style electric impact would be better than the cordless for sure, extra amps.

My buddy is a perfectionist and has a demanding job too. He has done some great work on his car and it is going to be a real track monster when he is done. He has a new Challenger for a DD and works on his Z in his spare time. His 1.5 diff is a monster; darn wheel hops off the ground around slow corners! lol

That's why the set in the pic above works, small clamp with a locking pin. Nice and safe!

Awesome! I bet he is just itching for that Castrol track to open south of the city. I would love to track the car, I am just scared shitless about slamming it into something especially with the power I will have to the wheels. It wouldn't take much to lose control.

He has been to Castrol many times.... that's where he left most of his last diff.....

I meant the new autocross track they are building right now. I cant wait to run mine down the 1/4 and see how it does. Every friday night they have street legals where anyone can go and run it. Hopefully I am not so fast that I need a roll cage, because that just wont happen. I have no idea what to expect from the car :D.

"Drive shaft loop mandatory on all cars running 13.99 or quicker that are running slicks. Also required on all cars running 11.49 or quicker on street tires
Cars running faster than 11.49 must have an approved roll bar, SFI Legal belts and jacket.
Cars running faster than 10.99 must have approved aftermarket axles and balancer."

It used to be 10 seconds = roll bar. Around here at least.

I don't think you'll have to worry about it. No traction = slow time :tup:

Hope not, haha time will tell. I just cant see myself putting a roll bar, that turns it into a track car instead of a DD in my opinion.

Got some more time out in the Garage tonight and since the PLX gauges showed up today I was able to start running the wiring for all those. I am pretty happy with the overall look of the engine bay.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps385b9f57.jpg

Try as I might I couldn't figure out how to better route everything, I think once I put back on the top strut it will cover everything up more and clean it up. I ran the wires down to the oil pressure sender location, I have to go out and get some 1/8" npt fittings and try and figure out how to add both a oil temp and other oil pressure sensor. It looks like 3 T's in a row might make it to long and come to close to the belt, but we'll see once I get it apart.

One thing I need a bit of advice on is the routing of the O2 sensor, currently I tucked it up along the passenger side of the body but it is still fairly close to the exhaust. That might change here if I can find a better way to route the line. The pictures dont really illustrate the route I took for the O2 line, the Iphone is not the greatest for this.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psd5e844f0.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps56b536db.jpg

There is just so much piping everywhere to make sure it stays clear of the exhaust.

I also have to figure out where I can hide these PLX modules in the car somewhere, I am hoping there is a bunch of room behind the dash somewhere to tuck them in. Again a crappy Iphone pic.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psf7ecc437.jpg


Anyways I had to stop to go to hockey, Ill probably spend most of tomorrow in there if I dont stay up to late drinking. haha.

Cheers! :tup:

I started running the O2 wires like you did but I ended up running the wires up and over the transmission with the waste gate hoses and then in the driver side firewall.

There is room to install things everywhere. I mounted the module for my EVC-s on top of the radio, the module for the Defi gauges between the radio and heater core. Once you pull the glove box you'll see some room. Also behind the passenger side kick panel, and under the passenger seat... You shouldn't have a problem hiding things.

I thought about going to the DS instead as well I just figured this way I have everything coming in on the one side. I think when I pull the trans to do the clutch I will just zip tie it further up under the firewall and this should work just fine. Right now its not touching any exhaust piping so it should be ok.

And I figured as much, one of the 3 gauges is on back order so I think I will wait to tear apart the dash until I atleast know it is on its way. I Dont want to forget where everything goes, haha. I started putting on the rear springs and working the roll bars last night. This will keep me busy most of today I would assume.

I need to go out and buy a heater for the garage (its about 5 degrees in there) to install the matting. GT said I need it to be atleast room temperature to have any luck getting it where I want it.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing with the O2 sensor, have everything enter the car at the same point. In order for me to do that, I wouldn't be able to reach the disconnect for the sensor. Yes, I can just unscrew it if I needed but it wasn't sitting well with me. By going over the tranny I was able to make a small coil of wire with the disconnect within reach. It was a pain in the butt to do but now I can unplug the O2 sensor and drop the downpipe in one piece if I need to.

Sounds like you're making good progress on your car. :tup: I took a break, too cold in the garage lately.

Ah I get what your saying, if I cant get over the fact that it bugs me I might do the same thing. The plug on this 02 sensor that came with the PLX is quite different to the LC1 that I had bought, the plug is only about 10 inches or so from the O2, so I just zip tired it to the wastegate tubing and tucked it as far away from the exhaust as possible. Either way the trans will be coming out within a week of it leaving my garage in the spring. I believe I have access to a lift and trans jack so I will probably just do it all myself and I will probably just worry about it then.

It still pretty cold for you guys down there? Were supposed to have a high of -3 today.

You'll be fine with what you did. If my plug was only 10" away I would do exactly what you did. I don't know why Innovate Motorsports put the plug where they did. :shakes head:

Warmer today (-6), but I haven't gotten out to the garage yet. I'm Mr.Mom until 3:30pm.

I love seeing these pics. I definitely am going to be coming to you for assistance when wiring up my plx boost/airvacuum. Did you just use a basic in line relay from the battery?

Thanks Tibal, I am not one for taking pictures while doing all the mods but I been trying to take a few after I am done in the garage for the night. Since the PLX modules are not water resistant I opted to route everything into the car. I currently have a 4mm boost line running in through the firewall and I will connect to the module when I tear apart the dash. I think I will just tap into a ACC power source in the car, ill have to see how much power they all need. If its on the high end then yes I will relay to the battery.

I spent most of the afternoon out in the garage and finished installing the lowering springs in the rear as well as the sway bar and end links. I didnt take pictures of this but it looks exactly like it does in the DIY thread. All that went pretty smoothly.

The front struts were a bit more work to get out. I had a 2ft breaker bar on the lower strut bolt and struggled to break it free. I had to put all my weight into it and bounce on it to get it to come free. The spring compressor that Mark (Whee!) suggested worked great, I did take some pictures of this. It was very tight and just barely gave me enough compression, I had to put all my weight on the strut ontop of the spring compressor to get the nut on the end of the rod. But they are on! I am waiting for my SPC camper arms now to re-install the struts and finish up the front end.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psfc5dd884.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps3c9aa55b.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps9c4b0a58.jpg


Tomorrow I might start pulling the trunk apart and installing the rear-view camera and GT matting. :happydance: I bought a small electric heater to heat the garage, it still probably will be a bit to cold for the matting. I was thinking I might put a sheet at a time in the oven at a very low temperature, it would soften it right up and allow me to mold it into the car. We'll see. haha

Looking good Mitch. I'm interested in the front camber arms, let me know what you think of them when you get them.

Thanks Jason, I will do that and take some pictures of them installed when they show up. :tup:

Also I forgot to mention, the stock springs had a rubber wrap around the bottom of the springs that were siliconed to the stock spring. I took it off and added it to the lowering springs. I used a zip tie to hold it to the spring and then once it was installed the pressure of the spring will hold it on there.

I read a thread here recently where a guy was having issues with a creek when going over bumps and did not want to take any chances of this happening to me.

Car looks great man, but damn you need to get rid of those hideous wheels on that Chevy :(

Lol, each to their own. I think it makes the truck look good. I dont off road and it helps big time for ripping around town. I have 18's and normal tires for the winter. haha.


Also I took a picture of the end links installed with the rear sway!. Still waiting on the camber adjusters to show up.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps506e166f.jpg

I spent a couple hours today pulling apart the interior to start installing the GT Matting, it all went great, no broken clips and no scratched plastic thanks to the special plastic tools I bought off ebay. I have to pick up an oil filter wrench to get the shift knob off so I can pull the center console right out. Here are a few pictures of the bare car.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps9d56bb49.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psfb00e39d.jpg

I strongly recommend these tools to anyone thinking of doing the same thing, they worked awesome!.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps94ea9c3b.jpg

Also if anyone is looking for fittings to plumb in any sort of gauges this website has it all. Thanks to the Oil gauge DIY thread for the link. I ordered up a bunch of stuff to install the PLX sensors.

Hose and Fittings.com

Hmm, I'll have to look at that site to see if I can come up with an option for the valve cover breathers.

I got most of the matting put in the trunk, ended up using alot more than GT thought I would need so I am going to have to order in another batch of it to do under the seats and the doors. The way I see it the weight I saved from removing the exhaust will be about the same as the weight added in matting, plus she is not going to be a track queen or anything. Here's a few pictures, been debating whether to do the panels under the 2 small back windows, I have a few sheets left so I will probably end up just filling that in as best as I can. Crappy part about all of this is I have not drove the car in so long that I probably wont notice the change, ill have to go for a ride in a local members 370 just to hear the difference.

Also to anyone looking to do this where its not 90 degrees out a heat gun works wonders for softening up the rubber to then press into location. I have been doing it in a garage at about 40-50F and it would not be possible without the heat gun.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps6616a184.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psb430ccd4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psf2afe9a3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps46c0cc13.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps64e5fc91.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psd427b107.jpg

Good job Mitch!

Thanks!

Out in the garage trying to plasti dip that bar support behind the seats now. I was having issues with the Plasti dip blotting, did a search and it turns out the can should be warm so I have it sitting in some hot water right now to try again.

Where did you get the PlastiDip Mitch?

Crappy Tire, $20 a can tho :shakes head:. If your willing to wait I would order it from the US, its not cheap up here.

:tiphat:

Might you be interested in GTMat Onyx? PM the GTMat account for a quote. :)

Hi Tracie,

How is that different than the stuff I ordered from GT previously? I just ordered the GTMat sound deadened in 80 mil?

It is butyl based, no odor, 70mil and higher heat tolerance. It's essentially the same product as Dynamat. I can also requote the 80mil if you prefer.

I have no reason to change it up now, the stuff worked great and I didnt notice any odor of any kind. I think ill just go with the same stuff I started with.

I got the bar plasti dipped today while the weather was nice. I put 3 coats on it, the first 2 were moderate and then I did a 3rd heavy and final coat as it was starting to get chilly outside. I ended up using probably 80-85 percent of the can.

I think it came out pretty nice, you can see my finger prints on it because my hands were dirty from installing the review camera from the carkitcompany. Fishing the camera through the bumper was a bit tricky but if you did it in sections like the manual suggests it was not to bad.

Anyways heres some pics.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps5aac7dea.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psdc805743.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps5c3c9b43.jpg

I also decided to remove the seats and center console to put some matting under them. I have not decided whether or not I am going to pull out the whole rug or just fold up the sections I am working on. Ill have to see how its secured to the front of the car under the dash. I will also have plenty of room to install the RJM clutch while I have the drivers seat out.

The rug is fillthy, the lady who owned it before me had a dog that spent alot of time in the car :/. I am going to clean it all up before putting the seats back in.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psd804693c.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps6d816552.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psa3407906.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps4693a44b.jpg

May as well pull the dash out while you have the seats out. :stirthepot:

Ill get there eventually, I am still waiting on a gauge to show up so I am not in a huge rush to pull it a part yet. Starting to run out of things to do to it, haha. What does suck is I cannot put the paneling back on because it almost comes off from the back and then works its way to the front.

Yea, it goes back, front and side to side....ahhyea!!

I got some pictures of my completed head lights today by Raul G. They look amazing, cant wait to get them on the car.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps8bdc7ebb.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...psd69e48bd.jpg