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Love my SZ clutch and CSC set up...you won't be disappointed!
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I'm looking forward to a clutch that isn't miserable to drive. That spec was unpleasant from day one.
I've still got the rjm pedal on a shelf to put it the next time I have a chance. Since the SZ setup holds more power, that seems like a good enough reason for another pound of boost or two. |
Yup, I'm headed to SZ next month to do just that!
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I'll give Phunk a call first and sort out the fuel system before I turn the little knob. Return fuel system, new pump, injectors, etc. Probably ditch the MBC for a good EBC at the same time. If I'm paying for a re-tune, might as well get my money's worth. I'm still going nowhere near the limits of the stock block. But if guys are running 550-600whp with no issues, I'll aim for 525 and be happy.
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I'm using you and Wick as reference. What Ebc you going with? I was thinking of just the 8lb spring but I'm thinking the same thing your thinking. If the block can handle it and i'm paying for the tune, might as get my $$ worth.
YzGyz |
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JTran is going to recommend a EBC. I'm running the Greddy profec. The old style not the new one. I opted for it because it's simple and easy to install. Oh and JTran recommended it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Will look into it bt man i dont want to spend all this $$$$ grr.
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I want boost by gear, so that really leaves me with a Turbosmart or HKS. I've got a lot more homework to do first. There's a lot of popped motors from improperly set up or installed EBCs.
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The more I read, the more I want a EBC. Man... This means I have days of reading to do. You and Wick going to give me a hand with installing and setting it up once everytihng is installed (minus EBC).
YzGYz |
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I'll give you a hand assuming I feel comfortable with the install after I read thru the instructions for the one you buy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Yeah, I want to be able to limit first to spring pressure, second to 6-7 lbs and have full boost in 3-4-5. 6 can be back to spring pressure, since I can't imagine ever needing to be running full boost in 6th gear.
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I might actually get the car back this weekend. That's what, a month to fix a clutch? It's been a complete disaster. First the car won't go into reverse at all. Shop tweaks it some more, reverse and first are still bad. The shop I bought the clutch from says it must be the master. Replace the master, no change. The shop I bought the clutch from says it's a bleed issue. The installer bleeds it again and I pick the car up. Now I can find first and reverse, but after I drive it home it's hot and I'm locked out of gear again. The vendor says it's still an air bubble. I spend hours under the car bleeding it. I went through two bottles of brake fluid. No change. The vendor agrees to foot the bill for half the labor to R&R the transmission. Very cool.
I call the vendor and they decide to make me a new slave with more throw and overnight it. I drop the car at the shop. Once the transmission is on the ground, my installer decides to take a look at the clutch rather than just replace the slave. The disc is warped. He calls the shop who actually makes the clutches for the vendor I got it from, who tells him I never should have been sold the full face clutch because it wouldn't hold up to the abuse and overnights him a 6 puck. At this point I tell the vendor I bought the clutch from about the whole issue. Their response is to blame the installer, despite the fact that the actual maker of the clutch agreed that there was something wrong and overnighted a new disc. So now I've got the guy that sold it to me and the guy who installed it pointing fingers at each other blaming the other guy. Meanwhile, I'm out 4 weeks of a rental car, a master cylinder I didn't need and I used almost all my good brake fluid bleeding a warped clutch. Just to put the cherry on top of the **** sundae, the vendor is now trying to back out of paying for the part of the labor they said they would cover. |
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