GaleForce's build

Mr&Mrs · 01-08-2013, 02:41 AM

This makes me want to sell my GTM kit...........

The Dimer · 01-08-2013, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr&Mrs

This makes me want to sell my GTM kit...........

For cheap?

simota1 · 01-08-2013, 08:51 AM

god damn that turbo looks tastey man

great job

Ire · 01-08-2013, 09:17 AM

sickkkkk can't wait to see it in the summer!

Mr&Mrs · 01-08-2013, 04:13 PM

Haha I usually do just to get rid of things quick. I love the power delivery of ST's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Dimer

For cheap?

GaleForce · 01-08-2013, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr&Mrs

This makes me want to sell my GTM kit...........

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Dimer

For cheap?

GaleForce · 01-09-2013, 01:52 PM

Not much for updates. I took yesterday off... was planning where I am going to mount the solenoid valve for the EVC-s, and the boost sensors. today I'll try to fab up some brackets. I'm also pulling out the turbo again. I just can't get a satisfactory fit between it and the charge pipe. It's really tight and the charge pipe was touching the oil take-off plate. I tore everything apart tried again with the same results. It's a little warmer today so I'll give it another try. I only have a couple of hours free to try. *fingers crossed*

Boosted Performance · 01-09-2013, 02:07 PM

This is the "hard part" of the install if you want to call it that. Room being the main factor.

However, you should not have to pull the turbo. If you loosen up the T-bolt clamps you can just roate the couplers and the two pipes till they are seated well. With the new couplers the friction is high, and they are stiff, so you have to muscle them on. Some engine oil takes care of this though. I know there is not much room to really put your hands in there. Removing the passenger side wheel will get you some extra room to get your hands in and turn/adjust things. Sounds like the first pipe from the turbo needs to go in a bit deeper in to the reducer coupler on the compressor. The 45* silicone reducer also needs to be slid all the way on to the compressor outlet.

Mitco39 · 01-09-2013, 02:44 PM

Hey Gale,

When you figure out the location for your solenoid valve and boost sensors id love to see some pictures. I am going to be going through the same thing here before spring and was wondering the same thing.

GaleForce · 01-09-2013, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance

This is the "hard part" of the install if you want to call it that. Room being the main factor.

However, you should not have to pull the turbo. If you loosen up the T-bolt clamps you can just roate the couplers and the two pipes till they are seated well. With the new couplers the friction is high, and they are stiff, so you have to muscle them on. Some engine oil takes care of this though. I know there is not much room to really put your hands in there. Removing the passenger side wheel will get you some extra room to get your hands in and turn/adjust things. Sounds like the first pipe from the turbo needs to go in a bit deeper in to the reducer coupler on the compressor. The 45* silicone reducer also needs to be slid all the way on to the compressor outlet.

That's what I'm going to try. I pulled the turbo a couple of nights ago, pulled the pipe, double checked the coupler positions, put the pipe back in and got it situated nicely. Everything was good until I put the turbo back in. I'm going to do my best to muscle it tonight. I got side tracked this afternoon making brackets.

Honestly, the installation is very easy and the instructions are good. Like Sasha said before, if you can install HFC's then you can install this kit.

GaleForce · 01-09-2013, 05:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

Hey Gale,

When you figure out the location for your solenoid valve and boost sensors id love to see some pictures. I am going to be going through the same thing here before spring and was wondering the same thing.

You must have been looking over my shoulder today. I made two brackets from 1/8" aluminum angle stock.

The two boost sending units will be mounted just behind the passenger headlight using the existing threaded location from the factory air box. The waste gate solenoid will be mounted on the driver side just outside of the clutch MC cover.

Bracket on the left is for the solenoid (upside down)

Bracket on the right is for the 2 boost sending units.

Custom brackets by J M Gale, on Flickr

GaleForce · 01-10-2013, 01:39 PM

Here is a quick picture of the brackets. The bracket to the rear is for the boost sending units. It needs to me polished. The front bracket is for the solenoid valve. To the right is the aluminum angle is used to make the brackets. Easy peasy

Brackets by J M Gale, on Flickr

Here is the solenoid mounted. Why did I bother polishing it?

HKS EVC-S by J M Gale, on Flickr

O&G · 01-10-2013, 02:04 PM

I used the brake compartment to house everything. You can run your lines to the cabin through the windheild wiper motor compartment on to the fire wall gromet. I need to clean mine up a bit but I purchased one of those vaccum manifold kits and taped into the brake booster vaccum line and ran everything off that source. Keeps the engine bay clean as well! Your project is coming along nicely.

sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note

Mitco39 · 01-10-2013, 02:07 PM

Polished the brackets and everything, wow. haha. Any idea where you are going to mount the EVC in the car? Also does that particular one have to be tapped into the Throttle position sensor? I would assume it has to tap into the rpm wire right? Any chance you figured out the best place to do this? Havent had much of a chance to look through the service manual to much as of yet.

GaleForce · 01-10-2013, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitco39

Polished the brackets and everything, wow. haha. Any idea where you are going to mount the EVC in the car? Also does that particular one have to be tapped into the Throttle position sensor? I would assume it has to tap into the rpm wire right? Any chance you figured out the best place to do this? Havent had much of a chance to look through the service manual to much as of yet.

The EVC-s is the little brother to the EVC-6. The only thing you need to wire up is and Ignition source and ground. It must have flash storage to keep memory because it doesn't even require a constant +12v. I do have a PDF with wire locations for tach, VSS, etc. Let me know when you need it.

01-08-2013, 02:41 AM	#196 (permalink)
Mr&Mrs A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tampa Posts: 4,207 Drives: RZ34 Rep Power: 31940	This makes me want to sell my GTM kit........... __________________ Project Z <--Click - Check out the link too many mods to list!

01-08-2013, 08:51 AM	#198 (permalink)
simota1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Dededo, Guam Posts: 6,642 Drives: solid red 370z 6mt Rep Power: 405	god damn that turbo looks tastey man great job __________________ *TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/*

01-08-2013, 09:17 AM	#199 (permalink)
Ire Track Member Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Toronto Posts: 785 Drives: 09 MB Rep Power: 17	sickkkkk can't wait to see it in the summer! GaleForce likes this.

01-09-2013, 01:52 PM	#202 (permalink)
GaleForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 21,749 Drives: Varis Arising II Rep Power: 51865	Not much for updates. I took yesterday off... was planning where I am going to mount the solenoid valve for the EVC-s, and the boost sensors. today I'll try to fab up some brackets. I'm also pulling out the turbo again. I just can't get a satisfactory fit between it and the charge pipe. It's really tight and the charge pipe was touching the oil take-off plate. I tore everything apart tried again with the same results. It's a little warmer today so I'll give it another try. I only have a couple of hours free to try. fingers crossed __________________ >>>GaleForce's Build<<< >>>FaceBook @3GsCustoms<<<>>>Instagram @GaleForce370z<<< Varis Kamikaze-Z

01-09-2013, 02:07 PM	#203 (permalink)
Boosted Performance The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Edmonton, AB Posts: 1,629 Drives: Z's Rep Power: 3382	This is the "hard part" of the install if you want to call it that. Room being the main factor. However, you should not have to pull the turbo. If you loosen up the T-bolt clamps you can just roate the couplers and the two pipes till they are seated well. With the new couplers the friction is high, and they are stiff, so you have to muscle them on. Some engine oil takes care of this though. I know there is not much room to really put your hands in there. Removing the passenger side wheel will get you some extra room to get your hands in and turn/adjust things. Sounds like the first pipe from the turbo needs to go in a bit deeper in to the reducer coupler on the compressor. The 45* silicone reducer also needs to be slid all the way on to the compressor outlet. GaleForce likes this. __________________ 750WHP starting @ $7,500 to the door FOR DETAILS VISIT: http://www.the370z.com/members/boosted-performance.html FB: https://www.facebook.com/Boosted-Per...6303179791462/ IG @boostedperformanceyeg Last edited by Boosted Performance; 01-09-2013 at 02:09 PM.

01-09-2013, 02:44 PM	#204 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 132	Hey Gale, When you figure out the location for your solenoid valve and boost sensors id love to see some pictures. I am going to be going through the same thing here before spring and was wondering the same thing. __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

01-10-2013, 01:39 PM	#207 (permalink)
GaleForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 21,749 Drives: Varis Arising II Rep Power: 51865	Here is a quick picture of the brackets. The bracket to the rear is for the boost sending units. It needs to me polished. The front bracket is for the solenoid valve. To the right is the aluminum angle is used to make the brackets. Easy peasy Brackets by J M Gale, on Flickr Here is the solenoid mounted. Why did I bother polishing it? HKS EVC-S by J M Gale, on Flickr Mr&Mrs and LMBmikeZ like this. __________________ >>>GaleForce's Build<<< >>>FaceBook @3GsCustoms<<<>>>Instagram @GaleForce370z<<< Varis Kamikaze-Z

01-10-2013, 02:07 PM	#209 (permalink)
Mitco39 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Edmonton Alberta Canada Posts: 2,089 Drives: 40th 370z Rep Power: 132	Polished the brackets and everything, wow. haha. Any idea where you are going to mount the EVC in the car? Also does that particular one have to be tapped into the Throttle position sensor? I would assume it has to tap into the rpm wire right? Any chance you figured out the best place to do this? Havent had much of a chance to look through the service manual to much as of yet. __________________ 2007 Chevy Duramax - EFILive Tuned By Me 2010 40th W/ Nav - Boosted Performance - UpRev Tuned By Me The Mrs. Ride -2012 335XI N55 BMW - Cobb Tuned By Me, Built by her My Build --> http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...39s-build.html

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
My Z Build	pwrhsms	Member's 370Z Gallery	43	09-09-2013 12:35 PM
Possible Nos build	triadz	Forced Induction	7	04-06-2012 11:30 AM
TT build in Fl	travnflorida	Nissan 370Z General Discussions	3	08-15-2011 06:51 PM
THE "Lets argue about Bullitt's build with out ruining Bullitt's build thread" THREAD	Reaper42	Forced Induction	14	01-22-2011 06:24 PM
Datsun Roadster 1600...To build or not to build	motoextreme	The Lounge (Off Topic)	66	02-13-2010 01:40 AM