whoooo hooo to that line up! Y do i feel like the GTR is eating you the 996 and 997?

GT-R is fine by me!

Well, the motor was finally pulled yesterday and it was delivered to the machine shop today...progress!

It's not "common", but it does happen to the 2003-2006 Gen 3 motors.
The GTR is no joke...it's a 2012 Black Edition with a Cobb tune. Lets just say launch control in that thing is like a rocket! The 996TT has the X50 upgrade and straight exhaust. We were pretty even the one time we had fun. The 997TT has upgraded turbos, boost actuators, intercoolers, intake, straight exhaust, clutch/flywheel, and tune. Before the turbos, it did 11.7@124 with a baby launch.
It's definitely a great car, but I prefer a manual transmission. Still torn on sticking it out with my car, a low mileage 996TT, or a low mileage 997S.

very sorry to hear about your engine troubles, again :ugh: my vote would be sticking it out with the viper. you've have had some really unfortunate luck (not even counting the Z!) but it seems like you have had your heart set on this car for a long time. are there any options for sourcing a fresh pre-built short block that won't bleed you dry?

Yea the no true manual option is a huge pill to swallow...

More power to whatever you decide!

A crate motor is $17k. I can probably find a blown block with the spun bearings for $3k...but why spend that when I can just use my motor? I should have an update today from the machine shop.

I've already found a buyer for my headers, KWs, and recently purchased LED lighting and upgraded bulbs to redo the gauges, interior lighting, and headlights/fogs.

It seems like the Viper will be up for sale as soon as I get it back :shakes head:
Thanks. Maybe I should make a poll like some people do and have strangers vote on what kind of car I should get next? :stirthepot:

The Viper is rare due to the low volume production. I love the black on black look and the fact that it's slammed. It would also be cool rolling 3 deep in Porsche turbos...plus I'd be back into boost:driving: Boost vs. NA power:confused:

how much ;)

$48k stock, with the brand new motor/clutch/Interstate battery/Woodehouse Dodge polyurethane motor/transmission mounts/resurfaced flywheel.

$54k with the above plus the 19"/20" Modulare Forged wheels/K&N intake/Belanger headers/KW V2 coilovers/all new LED lighting for interior,gauges, and upgraded 6k headlights/footlights (the wheels alone were more than the $6k extra I'm asking over stock).

Wow, sorry to see you're dealing with this again :( i would be so done

Well, it's been 7 weeks since I heard the bearing failure again. The machine shop told me they would have the motor torn down and diagnosed in 2 days...that SHOULD have been 12/14. Well, great timing...they were closed for 2 weeks for the holidays. I just called the machine shop and they said all 10 rod bearings are damaged, but the main bearings seem to be ok. The crank looks worse than the first time and is at an outside shop now to see if it's salvageable or if I need a new one; they should have an answer Tuesday. Once they figure that out, they can determine what parts need to be ordered and can give me a quote.

The machine shop said the motor failed due to oil starvation (this goes back to the installer telling me he only put in 9qts of oil when the motor calls for 10.5qts). I also mentioned the installed told me he blew out the oil lines, but did not install a new oil cooler. This could have obviously been a culprit to the damage.

As of now, all fault points at the installer. Once the crank is diagnosed, the machine shop will be calling the installer and we will go from there.

=(

I'm sad to hear that. Good luck!

Why in the hell would he only put in 9 qts??? :confused:
Best of luck.

Good luck man

Ugh, that sucks. Good luck getting things fixed.

Update:

I went to visit the machine shop for the first time yesterday. They showed me my shot bearings. All of the main bearings have burnt the clevite coating off due to excessive friction/heat and most of the rod bearings had deep gouges in them (my previous damaged engine almost had nothing left of 2 of the 10 rod bearings, so we assume this is where the gouging came from). This is a clear sign that the bearing material from the previously damaged motor was not thoroughly cleaned out. The machine shop showed me their process of how they clean the block out, so all signs point to bearing material being left in the oil pump. We also went to pick up my crank (done at an outside shop) and the crank is CRACKED :eek:

My installer said he never replaced the oil pump, but blew out the lines. The one thing I didn't know is the Viper is not like our Zs... on the Z, you can just swap out the oil pump. On the Viper, you have to replace the entire front timing cover. Now I see why the installer cheaped out on that part, but it's still a completely unacceptable excuse not to replace it.

The machine shop is going to give me documention sometime this week that the motor failed due to oil starvation and metal material cycling through the engine. He's also going to prepare a written estimate of the cost to rebuild. My last rebuild was just shy of $8k. Depending on if we can source a good used crank or have to order new, I suspect this rebuild to cost another $5k on top of the last estimate.

The installer will be held liable for all charges. I have a feeling he is going to deny any guilt unfortunately, so I have a lawyer on standby. I've had the car for 9 months now and it's only been drivable for 13 weeks. :mad: I just want the damn thing back...I don't even know what it's like to drive the car really.