This

I thought about this till I found all hydraulic hose is only rated at 212*. Some kinds say -40 to 212* (248* max) but still, I wouldn't want it failing on the track since oil temps can get high!

Using the proper fittings made for R14 SS hydraulic hose, you can do the same thing and it's rated to 450*.

Stainless Steel Braided Hose | PTFE Hose | R14 | SAE 100R14

I run the Z1 kit now for my oil cooler.

O cool.

Hey the apr gtc 300 broke on you right? Ever find out why and did they say anything about it?

yes it did. they said they had never seen it happen before and didn't know why. I have heard there have been others too though. They sent me a new one and I promptly sold it and got an aeromotions. the aeromotions has a solid aluminum core.

Probably so does the kognition since guys can stand on them? Thanks.

Still had the ABS issues today at COTA. I thought I have always had the ABS, VDC, SLIP and Air Bag lights on in my cluster.

Checked out the entire car in the paddock and it looked like the left rear abs sensor was shorter than the other side. Also, I have a small leak in the differential at that axle.

After removing the sensor, it looked just fine, so I did another inspection and realized that my stub axle had come unseated and was about a 1/4" out farther than it should be and the sensor wasn't lining up.

After consultation with Spencer at Z1, he told me how to reseat it, which I did, and did a little test drive and the ABS light went out, so apparently it isn't always on. I drive the car so rarely though, that I couldn't remember if it was or wasn't.

Anyhow, it was cold and freezing drizzle in the morning and still cold but dry in the afternoon, so I ran gently without ABS. Going to be in the 60s and 70s the next two days, so I should get to have some fun now.

Also met Brandon (WSTAR) and Chris Slicks is coming out tomorrow to meet us.

Awesome! Yup, that will definitely screw with the ABS system and cause it to not work at all from what I've heard. Good luck the next couple days!

How do you reset? I have ABS light on now. Seem to be on after coming home from the dyno. I think I have my steering system all out of wack though. But it had been fine hit weeks till the dyno, so not sure. It's been played with a lot. I assume I need this off before track day.

Edit: I think I just need to drive the car around cause I know the dyno will make it happen. Next project is deleting the ABS.

Get any single outlet master cylinder with a compatible bolt pattern (pretty generic) and run it to a T, then run the two outlets, one to another T for the fronts and the other outlet through a prop valve to a T in the back. Badabing badaboom.

Or run a dual master pedal box, I expect the pedal effort will be... Substantial.

Yea Megan posted a pic of his setup.

Link?

It will reset itself once the problem is fixed. I highly recommend against deleting ABS, at least without changing the entire hydraulic portion. Without ABS the tires lock with very little pedal pressure. I couldn't drive it past 70% of my normal abilities.

You definitely need a prop valve to help dial in the F:R ratio.

Megan's setup incorporates one, though it is mounted in the engine bay since he keeps the factory hard lines. I guess he has a remote cable mounted to it, I'd just rather replace the hardlines with new SS lines and run the prop valve inline, inside the car, if I were going to do that.