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Still had the ABS issues today at COTA. I thought I have always had the ABS, VDC, SLIP and Air Bag lights on in my cluster. Checked out the entire
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#1 (permalink) |
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Still had the ABS issues today at COTA. I thought I have always had the ABS, VDC, SLIP and Air Bag lights on in my cluster.
Checked out the entire car in the paddock and it looked like the left rear abs sensor was shorter than the other side. Also, I have a small leak in the differential at that axle. After removing the sensor, it looked just fine, so I did another inspection and realized that my stub axle had come unseated and was about a 1/4" out farther than it should be and the sensor wasn't lining up. After consultation with Spencer at Z1, he told me how to reseat it, which I did, and did a little test drive and the ABS light went out, so apparently it isn't always on. I drive the car so rarely though, that I couldn't remember if it was or wasn't. Anyhow, it was cold and freezing drizzle in the morning and still cold but dry in the afternoon, so I ran gently without ABS. Going to be in the 60s and 70s the next two days, so I should get to have some fun now. Also met Brandon (WSTAR) and Chris Slicks is coming out tomorrow to meet us.
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#2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Awesome! Yup, that will definitely screw with the ABS system and cause it to not work at all from what I've heard. Good luck the next couple days!
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Patrick // 06 Frontier 6spd Nismosis // Mods: Uprev Tuned @ Z1 Motorsports: 257whp & 292 ft lbs 09 Pontiac G8 GXP // M6 // Sunroof // Tint... For now ![]() |
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How do you reset? I have ABS light on now. Seem to be on after coming home from the dyno. I think I have my steering system all out of wack though. But it had been fine hit weeks till the dyno, so not sure. It's been played with a lot. I assume I need this off before track day.
Edit: I think I just need to drive the car around cause I know the dyno will make it happen. Next project is deleting the ABS.
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![]() Last edited by SPOHN; 02-08-2014 at 12:15 PM. |
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Get any single outlet master cylinder with a compatible bolt pattern (pretty generic) and run it to a T, then run the two outlets, one to another T for the fronts and the other outlet through a prop valve to a T in the back. Badabing badaboom. Or run a dual master pedal box, I expect the pedal effort will be... Substantial. |
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It will reset itself once the problem is fixed. I highly recommend against deleting ABS, at least without changing the entire hydraulic portion. Without ABS the tires lock with very little pedal pressure. I couldn't drive it past 70% of my normal abilities.
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Megan's setup incorporates one, though it is mounted in the engine bay since he keeps the factory hard lines. I guess he has a remote cable mounted to it, I'd just rather replace the hardlines with new SS lines and run the prop valve inline, inside the car, if I were going to do that. |
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I believe it locks easily cause there's an error and the ABS is still installed. But with it removed and a rear proportional valve installed it works fine. This is what Megan has done. But his still testing also. But so far it's been good. There's really no way for the ECU to control brake bias if there's no ABS
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![]() Last edited by SPOHN; 02-09-2014 at 01:55 PM. |
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I just don't see any advantage to dropping it.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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I haven't went on the track since I did that ABS delete with a proportional valve but only driven on ice and snow which helped setting up a baseline for this summer.. I remember when I was running in 2012 before I blew the engine, I feel the ABS system never liked any hard braking bit over 1G. *almost a guarantee for ice mode after* I'm quite anxious to see the difference in June. |
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its weird how some have ice mode and some don't. I've never gotten it and neither has Spohn.
I regularly get over -1 g in braking. ![]()
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#14 (permalink) | |
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at what rate does your cell use the GPS, 1hz ? |
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