Unfortunately, good track pads dust like a freight train.

I think the brakes get so hot that the powdercoat fades. I know Mike has told me that powdercoated brakes will turn that color when tracking. He can chime in though.

I figured thats what it was from but I know a track car brake/wheels tend to be alot hotter than the normal driven cars. ESP considering Mike is setting records on 370z track times lol.

Actually, the powdercoat melted at Barber, and the darkness is a combo of being burnt and brake dust embedding in it when it was soft. That was on the stock calipers running carbotech xp12 pads.

Genious level... :happydance:

I wonder how hot they got? I bet your rotors were close to red :)

My digital thermometer showed 650, but it's only supposed to be accurate to 450

Fudge that's hot!! Lol.

Mike, i'm looking for that clear-ish painter style tape you used on your wife's Z4 that time you took it to the track. I don't want to use blue painters tape if i can help it.

Thanks mike, repped.

Did it leave any glue residue on the piant when you peeled it off the car?

no, it leaves no residue. I can use it on top of cured powdercoat, throw another layer of coating over it, cure it and peel it off with no residue.

:tiphat:

So,
Just did Daytona, what an awesome track! But my 3rd lap of my first session, when I got up over 150 on the banking, my wing failed. The outer edges where there is more angle, actually bent down, about 10" and contacted the side of the car at the bottom of the brake lights. Once slowed it came back up, but its all cracked up. So, I had to remove it for the rest of the 2 day event, and really wasn't comfortable up above 140.

APR is having me send it back so they can figure out what happened and see if they can do any design work to prevent it, but they haven't seen a failure like this before. They are also building me a new one and replacing it for me. Stuff happens, but they have top notch customer service. I heard back from them within about 2 hours of emailing them pictures.

I think it was a combo of the higher speed and high g loading of the banking. The next session, my aluminum undertray managed to almost fall off, but that was fixable with a quick trip to home depot for bolts.
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/9937/wing4i.jpg

where it contacted the car, I thought someone hit my car with a jackstand or something, til I realized it was on both sides:
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/8899/wing1u.jpg

Even though this shouldn't be an issue, do you think if the bracing was wider it would help?

no, we discussed that on the phone and they said the current spacing should be adequate.

Damn mike that sucks.

Really! :(

Actually, I'm happy it contacted the car. I don't mind the scraping so much, since its a track only car, and that may have saved my life. If the entire thing would have departed at those speeds, I don't know what the result would have been, but probably not pretty. I'm just going to cut a couple black vinyl circles and put them over the damage.

Wow! That's crazy!

Glad you're ok and didn't suffer much more than some paint damage and dings. It's also great to hear about APR standing behind their product.

I keep wondering back to this page because that is just nuts. Almost difficult to believe.

Just want to chime in you can also check this one: I presume you want to use it for the track.

Products

Some what, but mostly for the long trip to and from ZdayZ. :driving:

o.O

So, three months later, I've finally got my new wing, Aeromotions, static version, and am ready for VIR next weekend with NASA and Forged.

I purchased the wing from our other resident pro driver bkleeman (Brian Kleeman, DWW Motorsports , Pirelli World Challenge series)

Not only did the old wing crack, but where the smallish mounts attached to the decklid, the force pushing down on the hatch actually cracked the aluminum skin.

Since we had to repair that, and I didn't want it happening again, my body shop, Autoglo, in Tucker GA, (great shop, way better than any other I have EVER dealt with!!!!!!), made some custom formed, I think 1/8 or 3/32" plates to spread the force out over a larger area, then panel bonded, bolted and blended them into the hatch, and mounted the new wing to that.

http://img853.imageshack.us/img853/3338/ndtu.jpg

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/1992/nwfl.jpg

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/3425/diu2.jpg

http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/6584/2hqr.jpg

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/5689/mvqm.jpg

Nice mike. :D How much down force you think the old wing was pushing? Wondering because of the cracks, or was it from just when the old wing failed?

Looks real good Mike!!!!:hello:

I really have no idea. When I had the car at the bodyshop for cage painting, the owner saw the paint was cracking around the wing base and wasn't happy about it, but we think it was just paint at that point.

I was doing 155 on the high banks of Daytona, which added a lot more G force, so it probably added to it. When I took the old wing off, the cracks were about an inch and a half long at the back end of the mounting bases.

I had that wing at its lowest possible angle too!

/\ that's moving! :tup:

you'll love it! brian said it made a huuuuge difference instantly out on track!

Sweetness. Mike I got your splitter ready. Might have to wait till next Friday or weekend before I drive over.

sweet! that's the right wing for this car, you're going to be happy

I usually set mine up for 8-9 degrees as measured along the top two high points... you look about 13+ degrees from the pic, which is way too much for this wing... You might be able to get a chart from aeromotions but my understanding is the sweet spot between drag and download is 8-9 (not much more down after that but a lot more drag)

Consider getting a thin aluminum angle strip that you can use as a gurney flap, and once you apply it with a strong adhesive, then run some electrical tape along the sides

A number of racers I trust told me to reverse the side plates... I think aeromotions did it the way they did to have a cool look, but *I think* they a bit more efficient reversed... could be wrong, but this side plates are backwards from most other designs... when you reverse them, the holes should line up fine

ok, we can do it anytime after I get back. Next month schedule might come out tomorrow or the next day.

Yeah, I don't have an angle gauge and just eyeballed it. Brian said his is a bit lower, but they are planning to raise it to about where mine is. I think I'm going to start a little lower and see how it works out, and adjust from there. With the turnbuckles, it will be fairly easy.

although, I ran the APR at lowest AOA and Z1's driver increased the angle on their car (they bought the replacement from me). who knows? I guess its all personal preference and feel.

I bought an angle measurer yesterday at Harbor freight. Its at 6 degrees.

I have a app for it. Works dead on when I tested against other tools.

At NASA Mid Atlantic, VIR.
All loaded up yesterday:
https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...92837548_n.jpg

When checking the wheel torque after a session, I found a snapped stud. Had to drive one more session in the instructor school to complete it, so I had them tech the tow vehicle and took it out for a half session. It behaved well in the high speed stuff, even hitting 90 in the esses, but didn't like the slower speed corners.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...12665167_n.jpg

Got a new wheel stud from the local Nissan dealer and fixed the car, so I'm all good for the weekend, and I'm now a NASA instructor.

Congrats!