STRYKER Journal

VQStryker

Hello everyone, I own a 2010 Nissan 370z nicknamed "Stryker" and I bought the car brand new. Minus the powertrain and tune, this is my project and my work. Before this car I owned a 2005 Scion Tc that was ready to turbocharged but as I was ready to order the kit someone did an illegal U turn and totalled the car. I never thought I would be happy to lose that car but after getting the Z, the accident doesnt hurt my feelings at all






















Current modifications include:

Engine Bay:

- GTM stage 2 (garrett GT28RS .86 A/R)
- HSK SQV4 BOV's

Exhaust:

- GTM 3" down pipes
- AAM 3" CBE

Electronics:

- Defi-link advance gauges:
*oil pressure, fuel pressure, oil temp (60mm)
- Defi red racer boost gauge (52mm)
-innovative AFR gauge (52mm)
- HKS EVC 6 boost controller

powertrain:

- OS Giken 1.5 differential
- south bend TZR clutch
- south bend CSC
- ACT 18LB flywheel

Wheel/tires

-SSR type-f 18x9.5 18x10.5

Misc:

- JWT oil pan spacer
- hood dampeners
- Password JDM shift knob
- "Z" illuminated kick plates
- UAM coolant overflow tank



Video- First tune @ 9.5 psi:

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SOLD- Stryker TT super sleeper (12.35 @ 121mph) no gripZ No Z

anthonyy

love it... definitely a step up from the tc

Glokwork

Great build! Can't wait to see more

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Precision Turbo Tial Turbosmart Fast Intentions Seibon Prosport Advan AD08R HKS Hipermax IV Nismo Evo-R PW:JDM UpRev Pioneer Escort Volk CE28N
Top Mount Single Turbo 551whp/482wtq@10psi

VQStryker

Find where you want to mount the gauge first:


remove engine cross brace and ALL plastice pieces where the battery is:





After all the plastic around the battery is removed, you will see the gromet for the ECU. Make a VERY small cut at the TOP of the gromet. You want the harness to barely fit in order to retain the water tight integrity. Push the harness through the garmet until you have about 6-8 inches of the harness left:






On the wall of the batter compartment, across from TB, are 2 plastic plugs. Remove one, I removed the bottom one. Also, using one of the tapping screws, make a hole on the outside of battery compartment and penetrate the other side. Do this where you want to mount the sensor inside the battery compartment. If you have a drill bit small enough, go ahead and use that:





Mount the sensor on the inside of the battery compartment and run the hose from the sensor through the hole the plug you removed. Attach the wire harness to the sensor and if you mount it where I did, Remove the fuse box cover and use a phillips screw driver:





Find the vacuum source you wish to use, I used the hose line for my BOV on the passenger side. Cut the hose and attach the supplied "T" fitting using zip ties.
*note, you may need to temperarily remove hose from BOV to have enough slack.
attach the hose from sensor to "T" fitting using zip ties and place line back onto BOV if removed:





Go inside the car and route the wire harness under the dash, behind the radio, under the driver side dash and up behind the steering wheel and attach harness to gauge:






Attach other harness, with fuse and wires, to the back of the gauge and route it down behind the steering wheel and to the back of the radio. I just tapped into a previous install.

***NOTE:

For 12V ignition (ORANGE WIRE) you can route it to either of the power outlets under the dash on passenger side and the one in the center council inside compartment.

For ground, you can attach (BLACK WIRE) wire to a bolt on the modual next to the hand break if you remove the center council (between passenger and driver) just remove bolts and pull back the lift up.
*to remove there are 2 screws on each side, you have to slide both seats up to get to them and 2 screw at the front:





Mount gauge using velcro, no drilling into dash!

__________________
SOLD- Stryker TT super sleeper (12.35 @ 121mph) no gripZ No Z