Sh0velMan's Track Car Build

Sh0velMan · 10-17-2013, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Did you go with the 13k, 6k springs? Did they give you the option to go higher?

I went with the default spring rates, which seem to be fine.

No sense in getting custom rates until the car has been corner weighted with the final wheel, tire and component composition that is going to be on the car for a while.

They're standard sized coilover springs, so I can get swift replacements at any time from any retailer that sells Swift coilover springs, so there was no impetus to buy them from Stance direct.

synolimit · 10-17-2013, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan

I went with the default spring rates, which seem to be fine.

No sense in getting custom rates until the car has been corner weighted with the final wheel, tire and component composition that is going to be on the car for a while.

They're standard sized coilover springs, so I can get swift replacements at any time from any retailer that sells Swift coilover springs, so there was no impetus to buy them from Stance direct.

Can't be cheap though. To save some coin I might just go with 14k, 8k off the bat and they keep their defaults.

Sh0velMan · 10-17-2013, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

Can't be cheap though. To save some coin I might just go with 14k, 8k off the bat and they keep their defaults.

I think it's ~250 a set for swift coilover springs.

Could be wrong tho.

Sh0velMan · 11-01-2013, 07:58 AM

Drove it to work, popped a 20A fuse on the O2 circuit, so I've definitely got something wrong.. sigh.

Guess I'll start by unplugging the secondary sensors and see if that makes any change.

If it doesn't, I guess one of the main sensors has been damaged and will have to be replaced.. yippie..

theDreamer · 11-01-2013, 08:36 AM

Blah blah blah...lame car/race car.

Chuck33079 · 11-01-2013, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan

Drove it to work, popped a 20A fuse on the O2 circuit, so I've definitely got something wrong.. sigh.

Guess I'll start by unplugging the secondary sensors and see if that makes any change.

If it doesn't, I guess one of the main sensors has been damaged and will have to be replaced.. yippie..

Have you tried cutting out random harnesses? I hear it's great.

wstar · 11-01-2013, 11:24 AM

Could be a damaged wire run to one of those sensors, too. Could check that with a meter on the connectors and the wiring diagrams for the sensors in the EC section of the manual. But yeah, if that doesn't work, just cut more wires till the car stops bitching

Sh0velMan · 11-01-2013, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Could be a damaged wire run to one of those sensors, too. Could check that with a meter on the connectors and the wiring diagrams for the sensors in the EC section of the manual. But yeah, if that doesn't work, just cut more wires till the car stops bitching

It's possible, but those harnesses ride inside the one that runs down the side of the tranny, so I don't have any reason to think they'd be damaged like the main O2 sensor (drivers side) was from the heat.

Still kicking myself for letting that happen, but I repaired the harness... I just hope it didn't do something to that sensor that's making it blow the fuses.

As a diagnostic step I'm going to disconnect the secondary sensors and do a drive cycle, see if it pops the fuse. If it does not, I will do a few more cycles until I am satisfied and then figure out where to get some O2 bung plugs.

If that does not make any difference, I'll have to sit down with my multimeter and the main sensors and see if I can find a high impedance conductor or something. Sigh.

ChipsWithDips · 11-04-2013, 06:39 PM

If its the secondaries causing the problem, and you're running UpRev you can disable them completely and keep them removed, as long as you don't need to pass inspection(it will show as "Not Supported" for heated catalyst).

Sh0velMan · 11-04-2013, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChipsWithDips

If its the secondaries causing the problem, and you're running UpRev you can disable them completely and keep them removed, as long as you don't need to pass inspection(it will show as "Not Supported" for heated catalyst).

Hans, yeah that would be the plan. Hopefully that's all I need to do, really don't want to pay for a new primary O2.

Where can I disable the sensors within the software?

wstar · 11-04-2013, 10:16 PM

I think you just remove the sensors (if you have something else to plug the holes with) and disable the CELs for the malfunctioning heaters + sensors in the long list of disable-able CELs. Never tried it myself, though.

Sh0velMan · 12-05-2013, 11:55 AM

So I put a 30a fuse in and it hasn't popped.

I'm bad, I know. I just hate trying to nail down electrical issues with no obvious cause.

Other than that, I am more or less hunkered down for the incoming baby, so I haven't been doing anything with the car. I have an annoying rattle just behind the drivers' side seat that I can't identify. Can only reproduce it while the car is in motion, seems to be caused by an up and down motion of the car itself... So if I have free time in the coming weeks, I'll probably be out in the garage with a mallet trying to isolate what is rattling.

Yippie!

Mike · 12-05-2013, 09:41 PM

you can actually hear a rattle? Mine is so loud without an interior and with the open exhaust that I'd never hear a rattle.

synolimit · 12-09-2013, 09:32 AM

My gas tank covers rattle. I just reach back and punch them.

DEpointfive0 · 12-09-2013, 11:49 AM

If you need a primary O2, PM me

11-01-2013, 07:58 AM	#454 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	Drove it to work, popped a 20A fuse on the O2 circuit, so I've definitely got something wrong.. sigh. Guess I'll start by unplugging the secondary sensors and see if that makes any change. If it doesn't, I guess one of the main sensors has been damaged and will have to be replaced.. yippie.. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

11-01-2013, 08:36 AM	#455 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4210	Blah blah blah...lame car/race car. Sh0velMan likes this. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

11-01-2013, 11:24 AM	#457 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Could be a damaged wire run to one of those sensors, too. Could check that with a meter on the connectors and the wiring diagrams for the sensors in the EC section of the manual. But yeah, if that doesn't work, just cut more wires till the car stops bitching __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

11-04-2013, 06:39 PM	#459 (permalink)
ChipsWithDips Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 279 Drives: '11 Gunmetal 370Z MT Rep Power: 14	If its the secondaries causing the problem, and you're running UpRev you can disable them completely and keep them removed, as long as you don't need to pass inspection(it will show as "Not Supported" for heated catalyst). __________________ PPE Headers SS/Coated/Wrapped \| Ebay y-pipe \| Custom 3" single exhaust w/ Magnaflows \| UpRev \| Racingbrake 2pc Rotors \| 40th calipers \| Eibach sways \| SPL endlinks, diff mounts \| RJM pedal \| Stillen Intakes, UDP, Flywheel \| M370 Manifold \| Z1 engine mounts, CSC-EK, Clutch \| Forgestar F14 18x10 \| Conti DWs \| Quaife diff/4.08 gears \| Nismo diff cover

11-04-2013, 10:16 PM	#461 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	I think you just remove the sensors (if you have something else to plug the holes with) and disable the CELs for the malfunctioning heaters + sensors in the long list of disable-able CELs. Never tried it myself, though. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

12-05-2013, 11:55 AM	#462 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	So I put a 30a fuse in and it hasn't popped. I'm bad, I know. I just hate trying to nail down electrical issues with no obvious cause. Other than that, I am more or less hunkered down for the incoming baby, so I haven't been doing anything with the car. I have an annoying rattle just behind the drivers' side seat that I can't identify. Can only reproduce it while the car is in motion, seems to be caused by an up and down motion of the car itself... So if I have free time in the coming weeks, I'll probably be out in the garage with a mallet trying to isolate what is rattling. Yippie! Mandingo likes this. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

12-05-2013, 09:41 PM	#463 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	you can actually hear a rattle? Mine is so loud without an interior and with the open exhaust that I'd never hear a rattle. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

12-09-2013, 09:32 AM	#464 (permalink)
synolimit A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 5,051 Drives: 2013 Silver 370z Rep Power: 3389	My gas tank covers rattle. I just reach back and punch them. __________________ 13 370z-

12-09-2013, 11:49 AM	#465 (permalink)
DEpointfive0 Premium Member Bitches Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: SoCal Posts: 14,824 Drives: a lot Rep Power: 17151	If you need a primary O2, PM me __________________ Do YOU want to know what/where I got my username from? ( Click to show/hide ) NSFW due to language:

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