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Originally Posted by SPOHN "IF" there's a next time. I'll be doing this hobby for the rest of my life. Or where you just talking about the hood pins? I
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#320 (permalink) |
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Personally I think it's a good idea to leave the two main pieces in place, mostly to protect the bottom edge of the windshield from being chipped/cracked. You could trim the pieces down significantly though and still have them perform that function. I also like the stock plastic covers on the battery/brake bays, I figured it must help reduce the influx of engine bay heat to the brake system. I have my catch can in the battery bay which also works better when it's less-hot than the rest of the system.
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#323 (permalink) |
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And you haven't had any cooling issues?
I ask because apparently the windshield/hood junction is a HIGH pressure zone, and I assumed it would be a LOW pressure zone. Thus removing that seal would assist with removing air from the engine bay. I was planning on making a gurney flap of sorts for the trailing edge to create an even lower pressure zone there, but my windshield wipers are rubbing the hood because i fckin broke the mount when removing them for work... ![]() Ridiculously expensive to replace that part, too. |
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#324 (permalink) |
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What have you guys that have removed the cowling done to safeguard all the electronics gear on the passenger side from water? And the big *** vent hole that the blower drew from?
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#325 (permalink) |
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FWIW, I did remove the big rubber strip that seals the upper edge of the engine bay. I figure regardless of which way pressure/flow is going, more air exchange there has to be good for cooling.
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#326 (permalink) | |
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As for the electronics gear, I don't drive in the wet and I store the car indoors.
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#327 (permalink) |
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Same here, but I'd hate to get caught out in a sudden downpour. I guess a car cover will help with that, assuming it doesn't happen while I'm actually driving.
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#328 (permalink) |
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Changed the oil. Had Red Line 5w30 in it, seemed to be a good oil, only got to put ~500 miles on it though. It'd been in the crankcase for a year, had to go.
Giving Mobil 1 0w40 a shot. It's the "European" formula that's actually made in Germany I believe. I know on the oil forums, it had some of the highest numbers for ZDDP and Molybendum, which are high in the Nissan Ester Oil. Difference this stuff is $22 for a 5 qt jug... Yes please. And I never thought I'd say this, but damn is that Pure One oil filter nice. It's just a damned oil filter but geez, it's so nice I almost hated to hide it under the car... ha. It was $6 on Amazon Prime, can't complain. The stupid canister refill filter on my Mazda cost $12 at WalMart, highway robbery. Did the oil on that beast too, it had about 9K miles on it so I figured what the hell. Interestingly my "finger test" tells me that the oil was still perfectly usable, would take a EOA to tell me for sure how worn it was, but meh. |
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#330 (permalink) | |
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