I got the exhaust on. The inlet pipes aren't reversible... flipped them around, went right on. Ugh. Recorded a video for ppl that wanted to hear the sound. It's barely
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06-10-2013, 08:30 PM | #286 (permalink) |
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I got the exhaust on. The inlet pipes aren't reversible... flipped them around, went right on. Ugh.
Recorded a video for ppl that wanted to hear the sound. It's barely any quieter than open header... Last edited by Sh0velMan; 06-10-2013 at 08:33 PM. |
06-10-2013, 09:47 PM | #287 (permalink) |
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I love it's tone, just the rasp gets in the way of the glorious sound on decel. Glad you got it worked out. I wanna hear her at full song
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06-11-2013, 10:02 PM | #288 (permalink) |
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Installed the last of the bolts needed for the exhaust.. had to go to the hardware store and get a new one for the triple-bolt flanges in the rear section, I broke a header flange bolt (taking it off, of all things) and had to use one of those to re-attach it yesterday.
Tightened up the rest of the bolts, always funny how much more squish you can put on an exhaust after you've heat cycled it once or twice. Added more coolant... After I let it run and sit, I was able to add maybe another half pint of coolant... I am thinking it may actually be full now.. hard to say. Temps seem normal (at idle with revving) based on what the ECU reports, so after it's seen some road time we'll see where the levels are. Also, opened the catch cans up and checked for evidence of oil. Looks like they're working perfectly, oil dribbles were very evident on the inlet tube, oil was clearly coming into the tube and flowing down to the bottom of the tube and dripping out the bottom. The outlet tube had ZERO evidence of oil on it, meaning the engine isn't sucking the oil in. Which is perfect. If anyone cares, I can make some drawings of how I built the oil/air separators for the cans in case someone wants to buy these super cheap cans and make them work. The car sounds fcking amazing. Can't wait to actually drive it and terrorize the neighborhood. |
06-12-2013, 10:55 PM | #289 (permalink) |
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Got the front end (sans the hood) buttoned up and the interior squared away (for now) and was able to take her for a spin... Good times!
Let my buddy try and drive her (he can't really see over the wheel or reach the pedals very well) so I could record a video... |
06-12-2013, 11:50 PM | #290 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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06-13-2013, 12:09 AM | #292 (permalink) |
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I'm on the Ferodo DS2500s, and they do the same thing till I get some rotations in, and they're not even full track pads.
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06-17-2013, 11:06 AM | #294 (permalink) |
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So as you can see from that picture, I need to get into the foot well with acetone and a torch and get rid of the rest of the sound deadening and sealant that is right where my heel sits in the floorboard.
Ugh! I have a design in mind for mounting the ECU more securely as well as a design for a center console area to begin organizing the harnesses and various switch gear. Work work. |
06-17-2013, 11:32 AM | #296 (permalink) | |
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The drivers side foot well was one place that the dry ice just didn't help at all. I think this is because it gets very hot in that area with the longtubes and the tar had been melted/re-melted so many times that it was well and truly bonded with the metal. Acetone will take it right off, just takes off the paint with it, so it's a mess. Gotta do it though, the way it is right now is unacceptable. |
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06-17-2013, 04:00 PM | #298 (permalink) | |
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Not the whole interior, but the driver's side floor pan at least. |
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06-17-2013, 04:24 PM | #300 (permalink) | |
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Lets keep these ideas coming people, I don't want to spend an entire day with a can of acetone, a wire brush and three rolls of paper towels! THEN have to rattle can the floorboard because the acetone took the paint off! |
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