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Sh0velMan's Track Car Build

Originally Posted by wstar Yeah I'm pretty sure somewhere in the Service Manual, or in the directions for one of the sets of headers I put on the car, they

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Old 06-10-2013, 11:07 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Yeah I'm pretty sure somewhere in the Service Manual, or in the directions for one of the sets of headers I put on the car, they talked about that. The "easy" solution (not that it helps you now) is to mark the steering shaft and where it inserts with a paint pen before you disconnect, so you can put it back the way it was.
I suppose, but it's actually already marked in teal paint (you can't really see it without taking the shaft out) and it can really only go in one way, since the bolt path is cut into the shaft. The key is to make sure the wheel doesn't turn (steering wheel) while you have the shaft collapsed, otherwise you could de-index the upper shaft with the lower.

Now if I can just get the damned thing to slide back in to the steering rack joint.
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Old 06-10-2013, 12:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Another thing that's goin' to bite you in the a$$. Your traction control light will be on because of the steering shaft mess. The sensor on the rack will have to be reset.
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Old 06-10-2013, 01:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Another thing that's goin' to bite you in the a$$. Your traction control light will be on because of the steering shaft mess. The sensor on the rack will have to be reset.
HA! I have no traction control system, so it'll be on either way. :P

Thanks for the encouragement, I was able to get it reinstalled on my lunch break and get the entire steering column back together without issue.

Also got the rest of the chassis grounds connected (there are a bunch!) and began the process of filling up the radiator. She lit up just fine, sounds shitty with the exhaust leaks due to the non-fitment, but even so... this bitch is going to be loud as hell even when the leaks are closed up... Holy Moly.
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