Sh0velMan's Track Car Build

wstar · 05-25-2013, 02:24 AM

Re: belts, I ended up using a 483 size. I can barely get a 480 onto the car (unbolting an idler pulley), but the tensioner indicator ends up pegged over at the "almost too tight" limit. With the 483 it's pegged over at the "almost too loose" limit, but it's not slipping badly or anything. Don't seem to be any inbetween sizes (even in 6-rib, which I'm using). I tried 485 and 490 before that and they were both way too loose on my car. I think we have the same basic config and same front Stillen 20% UD crank, but my alternator pulley is swapped for NST's 10% OD one.

wstar · 05-25-2013, 02:29 AM

Re: hoses, yeah I hate the bypasses too. I'm running two long bypasses (3/4 for heater, 5/16 for throttle body), and then I bought a tiny 45-degree section of 5/8 to replace that little rubber elbow on the true bypass line (which is mostly metal).

I'm assuming I'm right in thinking that the heater line is open full-time, and the thermostat just moves between "closed radiator + open bypass" and "open radiator + closed bypass", right? Or does the thermo also partially block the heater flow once the car's up to temp?

Also, at one point over my past track weekend, I got a CEL for "your coolant's too cold for the supposed thermostat setting", I think it was P0185, running my bypass setup + the mishimoto thermo. I imagine that one's deletable via UpRev, and it only happened once during a warmup.

Sh0velMan · 05-25-2013, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Re: belts, I ended up using a 483 size. I can barely get a 480 onto the car (unbolting an idler pulley), but the tensioner indicator ends up pegged over at the "almost too tight" limit. With the 483 it's pegged over at the "almost too loose" limit, but it's not slipping badly or anything. Don't seem to be any inbetween sizes (even in 6-rib, which I'm using). I tried 485 and 490 before that and they were both way too loose on my car. I think we have the same basic config and same front Stillen 20% UD crank, but my alternator pulley is swapped for NST's 10% OD one.

Yeah you would need an even smaller belt than me with that alternator pulley though I imagine only a touch.

I didn't think about getting a 6 rib.. doh.

There's that big of a difference between a 480 and a 483? It's only supposed to be a 3 tenths of an inch difference!

Do you have MFG part #'s for those belts? I'm not convinced that my belt is going to work long-term.

Sh0velMan · 05-25-2013, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Re: hoses, yeah I hate the bypasses too. I'm running two long bypasses (3/4 for heater, 5/16 for throttle body), and then I bought a tiny 45-degree section of 5/8 to replace that little rubber elbow on the true bypass line (which is mostly metal).

I'm assuming I'm right in thinking that the heater line is open full-time, and the thermostat just moves between "closed radiator + open bypass" and "open radiator + closed bypass", right? Or does the thermo also partially block the heater flow once the car's up to temp?

Also, at one point over my past track weekend, I got a CEL for "your coolant's too cold for the supposed thermostat setting", I think it was P0185, running my bypass setup + the mishimoto thermo. I imagine that one's deletable via UpRev, and it only happened once during a warmup.

So far as I know, the heater continues to flow, the thermostat just opens the pump to radiator flow in addition to heater flow.

I think that mishimoto tstat is a little overkill for N/A cars... I'm going to stick with the stocker for now, maybe go to the inifiniti one when i replace the water pump. I'll have a pretty massive radiator in place, so I think having the tstat open at stock or a little below would be sufficient to keep everything happy.

wstar · 05-28-2013, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan

There's that big of a difference between a 480 and a 483? It's only supposed to be a 3 tenths of an inch difference!

Do you have MFG part #'s for those belts? I'm not convinced that my belt is going to work long-term.

For the 6-rib dayco/gates stuff it's K060480 or K060483 or whatever. And yeah, I was shocked that 3/10" makes such a difference as well. I guess it's because the total length is so short now. If I could get a 481 or 482 maybe the tension would be perfect, but I think as long as I'm in the ballpark on the tensioner's range it works. The other 6-rib sizes I've seen from Gates and/or Dayco are K060485 and K060490. I don't think I saw anything in-between those two values, though.

Sh0velMan · 05-28-2013, 12:13 PM

I bought a 480 and it's way too small.

Gotta take it back this afternoon and get it exchanged for a 483. Supposedly have to order that one, but the guy @ Napa said he'd have it in 24 hours...

I can't find a 483 on their website now that I look though... So I dunno.

wstar · 05-28-2013, 02:31 PM

Gates has a 483 and a 486 (I forgot about that one earlier). Amazon.com has both, and usually O'Reilly stocks Gates-brand stuff in-store.

Sh0velMan · 05-28-2013, 02:39 PM

Thanks for the heads up, Oreilly's price on the 483 is absurd. Over $40...

I'll see if NAPA can get the 483 quickly, if not I will get it from Amazon.

Sh0velMan · 05-28-2013, 06:29 PM

Some goodies:

My AeroCatch hood pins (!) and the previously mentioned 'Ultra Cheap Catch Cans'.

As I suspected, the tubing (blue tinted vinyl, FFS) and hardware (cheapest you could think of) are awful. The bracketry is... pathetic.

All that said, I wanted an aluminum cylinder with two barbed nipples for me to put PCV hoses on and that's what they are.

I'm going to add my own additions to make them true Air/Oil separators.

Total cost will be around $65.

Sh0velMan · 05-30-2013, 10:34 AM

Got started on my oil/air separator fabrication yesterday, but had to go with a friend to pick up this beast:

It's an S14 and already has some upgrades, including Z32 Diff and brakes:

Got adjustable arms in the back (all but lower which are spendy, for a 240 anyway) some brand new megan racing (haha) coilovers, a longtube header and full exhaust, NRG quick release hub, a huge upgraded radiator with electric fan conversion.

Only runs on 3 cylinders currently, I suspect a timing issue based on my initial inspection, so we're going to go ahead and replace the distributor cap and rotor (good ole days, yo!) as well as wires and plugs, then re-time it.

Then the plan is to drive it as is until August when the SR20DET will go into it. It'll be stripped and gutted by then as well, yeehaw!

Sh0velMan · 05-30-2013, 10:53 PM

Well, I never claimed to be a master fabricator... but the big f*cker is in there.

I've done zero finish work at this point, still have some clearancing left to do...

Going to shroud in the gaps on the sides, the one of the left is going to provide me an avenue to run my oil cooler lines much more conveniently:

Sh0velMan · 06-01-2013, 10:43 PM

Last (I hope) of the clearancing done on the radiator install.

Last of the painting on the crash bar done. I'll snap a couple photos tomorrow.

Got the first of the two catch cans finished.

Ordered:

Shrouding materials
Radiator hosing
All new vacuum and PCV lines
TB coolant bypass line
wrap for exhaust system

wstar · 06-02-2013, 10:49 AM

Love the new photos, because now I don't feel like I'm the only one whose garage looks like that during a project. Sometimes it's hard to tell whether I'm just in mid-project, or someone set off a grenade in my toolbox

Sh0velMan · 06-02-2013, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Love the new photos, because now I don't feel like I'm the only one whose garage looks like that during a project. Sometimes it's hard to tell whether I'm just in mid-project, or someone set off a grenade in my toolbox

LMAO!

That's half the reason I'm glad the car is almost rolling again, so I can get it out of the garage and spend an afternoon cleaning the place up... I feel like I can't find anything at this point... lmao.

Sh0velMan · 06-04-2013, 10:17 PM

Lotta packages in today...

My Green Filters:

The others had my high pressure radiator cap and the raw materials for sealing up the radiator areas.

I got half of the front done... you can see it on the left side.

I'll be sticking the seal down to the radiator itself as well as trimming it up a little more to seal better, but I think even as it sits, if the fans kicking on will suck it down to the radiator just fine...

Big box of tubing and piping comes in tomorrow, as well as the wrap for the exhaust system. So much work...

05-25-2013, 02:24 AM	#256 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Re: belts, I ended up using a 483 size. I can barely get a 480 onto the car (unbolting an idler pulley), but the tensioner indicator ends up pegged over at the "almost too tight" limit. With the 483 it's pegged over at the "almost too loose" limit, but it's not slipping badly or anything. Don't seem to be any inbetween sizes (even in 6-rib, which I'm using). I tried 485 and 490 before that and they were both way too loose on my car. I think we have the same basic config and same front Stillen 20% UD crank, but my alternator pulley is swapped for NST's 10% OD one. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

05-25-2013, 02:29 AM	#257 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Re: hoses, yeah I hate the bypasses too. I'm running two long bypasses (3/4 for heater, 5/16 for throttle body), and then I bought a tiny 45-degree section of 5/8 to replace that little rubber elbow on the true bypass line (which is mostly metal). I'm assuming I'm right in thinking that the heater line is open full-time, and the thermostat just moves between "closed radiator + open bypass" and "open radiator + closed bypass", right? Or does the thermo also partially block the heater flow once the car's up to temp? Also, at one point over my past track weekend, I got a CEL for "your coolant's too cold for the supposed thermostat setting", I think it was P0185, running my bypass setup + the mishimoto thermo. I imagine that one's deletable via UpRev, and it only happened once during a warmup. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

05-28-2013, 12:13 PM	#261 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	I bought a 480 and it's way too small. Gotta take it back this afternoon and get it exchanged for a 483. Supposedly have to order that one, but the guy @ Napa said he'd have it in 24 hours... I can't find a 483 on their website now that I look though... So I dunno. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

05-28-2013, 02:31 PM	#262 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Gates has a 483 and a 486 (I forgot about that one earlier). Amazon.com has both, and usually O'Reilly stocks Gates-brand stuff in-store. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

05-28-2013, 02:39 PM	#263 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	Thanks for the heads up, Oreilly's price on the 483 is absurd. Over $40... I'll see if NAPA can get the 483 quickly, if not I will get it from Amazon. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

06-01-2013, 10:43 PM	#267 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	Last (I hope) of the clearancing done on the radiator install. Last of the painting on the crash bar done. I'll snap a couple photos tomorrow. Got the first of the two catch cans finished. Ordered: Shrouding materials Radiator hosing All new vacuum and PCV lines TB coolant bypass line wrap for exhaust system __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

06-02-2013, 10:49 AM	#268 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Love the new photos, because now I don't feel like I'm the only one whose garage looks like that during a project. Sometimes it's hard to tell whether I'm just in mid-project, or someone set off a grenade in my toolbox __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

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