Sh0velMan's Track Car Build

wstar

Hah, that reminds me: So my setup is already the above-pictured 20% underdrive Stillen crank pulley, and NST's 10% overdrive alternator pulley. I've been trying to figure out what belt length to use with the AC deleted (which I haven't done yet, but I can test belts). I've been trying to do the approach (was it Forged or GTM? some builder did it in some past thread) where you delete the smoother idler pulley closest to the AC, and the one that's dead in the middle of all the other pulleys: Crank -> top-center idler -> steering -> alternator -> tensioner -> Crank. Whoever did it before mentioned Gates K60500, but it was too loose by a lot (probably due to the underdrive crank). I've now tried K60480, and it was too tight (couldn't even get it on). So next up, I guess is K60490

Are you doing that same belt route? Of course your lengths may not match up with mine if you have the stock alternator pulley.

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SPOHN

I can't account for the the under drive pullies or the alternator but with my AC delete the ''only'' belt that works is a Dayco part number 5070500. Will have to order from Advance auto or AutoZone. They don't stock this belt. Takes about a day or two to get. About $35

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Sh0velMan

So I'm using the config that Spohn went with:



I might leave the idler that sits just above and to the right of the crank pulley to add a few more degrees of belt wrap to the crank.

I'm using Dayco part number 5070500 like Spohn, but he indicated that it was really tight, he had to tighten on one of the idlers to get the belt onto the thing... with the 20% underdrive, I think I'll have plenty of slack.

I'll post my findings once I get it on. If it's good for me, chances are your setup will be fine too. The 10% overdrive on the alternator will only increase the total belt path length by a couple percent, if that.

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