Sh0velMan's Track Car Build

Sh0velMan · 01-29-2013, 02:36 PM

That's excellent. I think that actually WOULD meet the letter of the law lmao.

Sh0velMan · 01-30-2013, 08:24 AM

Got the wheel installed.

Photos:

And for posterity's sake, if you need to wire up the stock horns, it's the GREEN wire on the GREY harness.

GaleForce · 01-30-2013, 09:11 AM

Very nice setup!

Sh0velMan · 01-31-2013, 12:45 PM

Welp, today I ordered a couple things..

1) Fast Intentions CBE non-resonated with customized post-muffler treatment (rather than blingy tips I'll have straight pipe I can wrap)

2) Kirkey 47 series Intermediate Road Race seat. Kirkey Racing - Browse Products

wstar · 01-31-2013, 01:38 PM

Interesting. I've gone back and forth on whether to use metal seats like that before, I still haven't ordered one way or the other and won't for a couple more months probably. What's the mounting plan?

Sh0velMan · 01-31-2013, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Interesting. I've gone back and forth on whether to use metal seats like that before, I still haven't ordered one way or the other and won't for a couple more months probably. What's the mounting plan?

Dropping the seat off with the car @ the cage builder. He's to make a mounting platform for the seat and brace it to the cage.

It's going to take 3 f'ing weeks to get the seat (supposedly) so I'm going to have to delay delivering to the builder, unless he thinks he can get started with the work before the seat gets in and just leave the areas around the driver until the end.

Oh, and the seat weighs like 14 pounds and is a full tilt road racing seat. I don't care for the overpriced and overweight 'composite' seats that usually get put in Z's. The real superlight seats (carbon backed) are way, way outside my price range, so this is a good compromise I think.

Sh0velMan · 01-31-2013, 01:44 PM

Alternatively, you can get a planted or that other brand of seat bracket (I can't remember, it's a small mom & pop that supposedly makes a superior product) and just drill and mount the aluminum seat to it yourself. Just gotta be sure you brace to the cage.

SPOHN · 01-31-2013, 02:17 PM

Looking good. Looking gooood.

Sh0velMan · 01-31-2013, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN

Looking good. Looking gooood.

Thanks man. Nowhere near the level of awesome as yours...yet? :P

I have SO much work to do and SO little time to do it in.

Supposed to go to the cage guy in 2 weeks. Still have to pull dash and delete A/C as well as clean up the wiring harness situation so he has room to work.

I really don't want to cut the harnesses, so I'm going to have to get creative...

wstar · 01-31-2013, 03:50 PM

Once you start cutting out the factory wiring, it's very liberating

Sh0velMan · 01-31-2013, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Once you start cutting out the factory wiring, it's very liberating

I don't know why I have such a mental block for it.

I've already done stuff that is irreversible without spending thousands... what's one more thing? Sigh...

Mike · 02-01-2013, 09:49 AM

I do too. I just have my loose ends coiled and tucked away. I'm just afraid if I cut something off, there is going to be a wire that is looped in a circuit with something important that will be cut.

wstar · 02-01-2013, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike

I do too. I just have my loose ends coiled and tucked away. I'm just afraid if I cut something off, there is going to be a wire that is looped in a circuit with something important that will be cut.

The approach I took was to work from the rear of the car forward, and identify everything I was messing with as I went, only cutting out the circuits I don't care about.

So basically, with the rear interior gone, I first went after the obvious rear targets I don't care about: the locker on the gas door, all of the lines to the hatch for everything but the top brake light (radio antenna, defroster), and all of the stereo equipment (sub, amp, XM radio module, etc that's all in the "center" of the car behind the seats).

I unplugged / cut out all of those at their terminal points, which are more or less at the end of their branches of the wiring looms, and/or are the whole terminal end of a branch of the wiring loom. Then I unwrapped the factory looms (lots of shrouding/conduit/tape around them), and pulled only those cut wires out of everything, working my way slowly forward on the car. Every few feet of progress, I'd go back and re-tape what was left of the loom (running to e.g. the taillight assemblies, the keyfob sensors that are still in the rear for now, etc).

I haven't finished mine, I stopped just behind the seats, where the main looms are in two giant bundles running down each side of the car on the outside. At that point it's a pretty thick bundle on each side, and the majority of it I've cut off at that point, as they all traced to stuff I didn't care about (they were the loose wires I've been following from the rear). The ones that remain still follow roughly their original bundles and paths. I taped up the cut-off ends behind the seats to ensure they didn't short against each other or the frame and left them there. To be completed when I start tearing out all the front interior and removing the dash

It's hours of brutal work, but IMHO it's worth it and it's not as risky as it seems.

Sh0velMan · 02-01-2013, 09:50 AM

Exactly.

Sh0velMan · 02-01-2013, 09:51 AM

Mike, can you snap some detailed photos of your interior? I'd like to see it for comparison's sake.

It's hard to make the inside of mine look particularly neat and tidy, much less pretty, because everything contrasts so starkly with the damned yellow.

01-29-2013, 02:36 PM	#1 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 21	That's excellent. I think that actually WOULD meet the letter of the law lmao. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

01-30-2013, 09:11 AM	#3 (permalink)
GaleForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 21,749 Drives: Varis Arising II Rep Power: 51865	Very nice setup! Sh0velMan likes this. __________________ >>>GaleForce's Build<<< >>>FaceBook @3GsCustoms<<<>>>Instagram @GaleForce370z<<< Varis Kamikaze-Z

01-31-2013, 12:45 PM	#4 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 21	Welp, today I ordered a couple things.. 1) Fast Intentions CBE non-resonated with customized post-muffler treatment (rather than blingy tips I'll have straight pipe I can wrap) 2) Kirkey 47 series Intermediate Road Race seat. Kirkey Racing - Browse Products GaleForce likes this. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread Last edited by Sh0velMan; 01-31-2013 at 12:50 PM.

01-31-2013, 01:38 PM	#5 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Interesting. I've gone back and forth on whether to use metal seats like that before, I still haven't ordered one way or the other and won't for a couple more months probably. What's the mounting plan? Sh0velMan likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-31-2013, 01:44 PM	#7 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 21	Alternatively, you can get a planted or that other brand of seat bracket (I can't remember, it's a small mom & pop that supposedly makes a superior product) and just drill and mount the aluminum seat to it yourself. Just gotta be sure you brace to the cage. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

01-31-2013, 02:17 PM	#8 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 46 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 222	Looking good. Looking gooood. __________________

01-31-2013, 03:50 PM	#10 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Once you start cutting out the factory wiring, it's very liberating __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

02-01-2013, 09:49 AM	#12 (permalink)
Mike The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Loganville, GA Posts: 5,944 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 2186	I do too. I just have my loose ends coiled and tucked away. I'm just afraid if I cut something off, there is going to be a wire that is looped in a circuit with something important that will be cut. Sh0velMan likes this. __________________ NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

02-01-2013, 09:50 AM	#14 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 21	Exactly. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

02-01-2013, 09:51 AM	#15 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 21	Mike, can you snap some detailed photos of your interior? I'd like to see it for comparison's sake. It's hard to make the inside of mine look particularly neat and tidy, much less pretty, because everything contrasts so starkly with the damned yellow. __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Wh1te370z - BMW 328is Track Car Build	wh1te370z	Other Vehicles	25	03-22-2012 10:21 AM
United touge/track drivers Streets of Willow Track Day	K.R.O.P.S.	Southern California Region	0	10-05-2011 07:25 PM
Forged Performance: R35 GT-R Track Day Build	ChadB@Forged	Track / Autocross / Drifting / Dragstrip	2	06-10-2011 09:40 PM
Datsun Roadster 1600...To build or not to build	motoextreme	The Lounge (Off Topic)	66	02-13-2010 12:40 AM