You want go fast...you got to stop fast too!

This is my 2nd set of those pads. :D

You can always do what I did...You’d have to get help w/the torque wrench.

Yeah, I'm not allowed to pick up anything over 5 lbs with my arm. :icon14: I had a hard time lifting a 10lbs barbell at rehab today. :shakes head:

You’ll get it back; just be patient.
You can “Flex” @Zdayz 2018’

Yeah, this is a 4 to 6 month recovery for normal actively. :shakes head: I don't want to want that long.

I installed this brace a few months ago. It was a real pain in the butt! It was near impossible to line up all three screws with the holes in the firewall. The area is so tight. If you have big hands, its even worse.

Swapped out the 100 psi oil pressure gauge with a 150 psi oil pressure gauge from SpeedHut. Everything in the interior is finished and back together. :tup:

Cold idle oil pressure is 105. Warm oil pressure is 38 to 40. At 2500 rpm. Pressure is 90 to 95. 3000 rpm, oil pressure is 105 to 110.

This is where I have the Warning Lights set to.

OIl pressure LOW Warning - 25 psi. HIGH Warning - 125 psi.

Water Temp LOW Warning - 140F, HIGH Warning - 235F.

Diff Temp LOW Warning - 140F, HIGH Warning 240F. At this temp. I can turn the pump on. If temps still go higher. Then I can turn the fan on. :tup:

The gauges record LOW and HIGH readings to review later. :tup:

Picture time. :tup:

In all the pictures. You can see the LOW oil pressure warning light.

1st pic. The 150 psi gauge and the 100 psi gauge.

2nd pic. Distance shot with the lights on.

3rd pic. Distance shot without lights.

4th pic. Closer without lights.

5th pic. Closer with lights.

I still have to label my switches.

Anybody know what these are for? :D

A new set of muffler bearings!

I'm just shocked there was something out of the SPL catalog you didn't have installed yet.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Me too. I some how missed them. :icon14:

Your Z must be solid as Rock!

I won't have any rubber bushing left in the suspension after I install these. :D

You gonna be riding “Bareback”

I'll take this back for now. I'll have 1 rubber bushing on each side. That is the bushing for the mid-link on the frame. That won't get changed until I decide on the type of rear shock I will use. Stock style or a true coil-over.

Is there a reason you wouldn't switch to a true type?

Yeah, how much clearance I will have between the 345 sidewall and the coil-over spring. I don't have much now.

Ahhh... your meat is too large. Got it :tup:

Walk softly, and ride on big meats. :driving:

My TrackSpec hood vents came today. :tup:

Mine too! I didn't even open the box, just put them in storage until I have time to install.... Hopefully before summer!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Finally got around to putting the track decals on the back window of the Z. The decals I got are the 3" ones. :tup: I put them in order of tracks that I've been on with the Z. :driving:

1. Pittsburgh International - North
2. Nelson Ledges
3. Summit Point - Shenandoah DE
4. Pittsburgh International - South
5. Pittsburgh International - Full Course

I have been thinking of doing the same but I don't know if I want to do the window or my wing side plates. I kind of like the wing side plates.

Depends on the number of tracks you've been to, as for how much room you have.

So far four and I will add two or three this year if not more, lol.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

If I include the bike. It would be about 24 tracks. :eek:

Would love to hit VIR, Mid-Ohio, and Lime Rock.

You need to come west and I need to come east and do a couple of bucket list tracks. I got to make my way up the we west coast....Willow Springs, Big Willow, Button Willow, Sears Point, Laguna Seca and Thunder Hill! I may do Las Vegas in April and then there is what used to be Miller Sports Park in Salt Lake City.

Do guys buy extra insurance when you track your Z?

There is insurance for doing trackdays that you can buy. But I don't.






Now, I'll need it. :shakes head:

I have not as well, my buddy has and it is about about $200 for the weekend!

$200 bucks foe the weekend, that's hella cheap. Over here in Fl they charge 700 plus for a day.

Wow, that is outrageous!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

Yea I get it from lockedonmotorsports. It’s about 200 a day and you get a discount through different racing groups (HOD in my case). Well worth it when you figure the cost of the car

Is this still available?

29. Nismo RC Mesh Grille Screen, P/N 62851-RTZ40, $438.89

I don't have the latest catalog. So I can't tell you. You can call them at 1-888-833-3225 between 9am and 5pm CST. Think that number is still good.

You got some good stuff back in the day. I was looking at the Nismo RC brake ducts again. LOL

Yeah, I did. :icon17: I got my stuff when Paul StClair was the head of the motorsports dept. I got stuff at half price. :eek: When he left. So did my discount. :shakes head: For awhile after him. You had to jump through hoops to get stuff. :shakes head:

Arm is feeling good. So I started working on the Nismo again. :tup: Have the diff pulled and installing the OS Giken diff. Here are the major torque specs that you will need. :tup:

Caution! The manual reads Nm (Kg m, Ft lb) when looking at the diagrams.

Drive shaft - 74 Nm (7.5 Kg m, 55 Ft lb)
Side Flange - 79.4 Nm (8.1 Kg m, 59 Ft lb)
Fill plugs - 35 Nm (3.6 Kg m, 26 Ft Lb)
Front mount bolts - 100 Nm (7.5 Kg m, 74 Ft lb)
Rear cover stud - 110 Nm (11 Kg m, 81 Ft lb)
Bearing cap - 93 Nm (9.5 Kg m, 69 Ft lb)
Ring gear bolts - 78.5 Nm (8.0 Kg m, 58 Ft lb) plus 31 to 36 extra degrees. This is closer to 100 ft lbs. Some a little less, some a little more.

Instructions for the ring gears bolts. From the manual.

Apply thread locking sealant into the thread holes of the Drive gear. Use Genuine High Strength thread locking sealant.

Apply anti-corrosion oil to the threads and seat of the mounting bolts.

Tighten in criss-cross fashion.


Pictures later tonight. :pics: