Rusty's Nismo Journal

Rusty · 06-26-2013, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

If the washer bottle was removed would mounting be easier? Mines in the trunk

Yea!

dmhenderson · 06-26-2013, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by synolimit

If the washer bottle was removed would mounting be easier? Mines in the trunk

It's a bastard. I can relate.

Rusty · 06-26-2013, 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gurneyeagle

Hi Rusty - Thank you very much for the help.

Where exactly did you position your ducts; i.e. how close to the grille (vertical axis) and the bottom edge of the bumper (horizontal axis)?

I made templates by tracing around the outside edge of the ducts. Then I position the templates on the bumper. Held them on with tape. Drilled a couple of small holes in the center of the template to check on my positioning. Think I ended up about 1 1/2" away from the grille opening. Should of gone closer. Like 1 1/4". As for up and down. I position the template about in the middle of the body line on top and the spoiler on the bottom.

I can't get to my Nismo for a couple of days to look at it. I'm on vacation, 4wheeling my Power Wagon.

If you still have questions, feel free to ask.

shaun66 · 06-27-2013, 02:28 AM

Cool truck! Snorkal ever come in handy?

gurneyeagle · 06-27-2013, 07:19 AM

That's what I needed to know Rusty. Thank you for taking time from your vacation to answer my question.

My only concern is making sure that the duct fits flush with the bumper. I noticed that the top outside edge of each duct has a slight contour to match the bumper as it curves around and I didn't want to cut a hole that was an inch out of alignmnet one way or another.

Again, apologies for interupting your vacation. Have a great time and check back when you can.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

I made templates by tracing around the outside edge of the ducts. Then I position the templates on the bumper. Held them on with tape. Drilled a couple of small holes in the center of the template to check on my positioning. Think I ended up about 1 1/2" away from the grille opening. Should of gone closer. Like 1 1/4". As for up and down. I position the template about in the middle of the body line on top and the spoiler on the bottom.

I can't get to my Nismo for a couple of days to look at it. I'm on vacation, 4wheeling my Power Wagon.

If you still have questions, feel free to ask.

Rusty · 06-27-2013, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shaun66

Cool truck! Snorkal ever come in handy?

Yeah. Had the Power Wagon in water over the hood crossing a creek.

Rusty · 06-27-2013, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gurneyeagle

That's what I needed to know Rusty. Thank you for taking time from your vacation to answer my question.

My only concern is making sure that the duct fits flush with the bumper. I noticed that the top outside edge of each duct has a slight contour to match the bumper as it curves around and I didn't want to cut a hole that was an inch out of alignmnet one way or another.

Again, apologies for interupting your vacation. Have a great time and check back when you can.

Hey, no problem.

I check this forum a couple times aday. LOL It's an addiction.

Right now I'm on my laptop with a dead slow wifi connection.

Like I said. If you have questions, I will try to answer them.

Rusty · 07-20-2013, 11:49 AM

Did a track yesterday after doing a 12hr nightshift. Talk about being wiped out.

Well anyway. Had a good time and still learning. Finding my limits are higher now and needing to change a couple of things on the Nismo to suit. Like I need coilovers now. On a couple of corners, feel like I'm riding on the bump stops. Which is beating me up some.

And need more camber on both front and rear. Need camber arms for the front. Here's a couple of pic's of the tires. Will post video's later, after youtube gets done with them.

sig11 · 07-20-2013, 02:11 PM

Doesn't look too bad. Camber arms will help a ton though. :P

wstar · 07-20-2013, 03:27 PM

Yeah front camber is really lacking on this car, especially once you put stiffer springs on that drop the car a little. Personally, I haven't had any real issue with rear camber at stock settings. I just adjust the rear Hotchkis bar to balance out the car a bit in the oversteer direction and my rear tires wear pretty evenly as they slip around. Maybe it starts becoming more of an issue after you *do* get the front camber kicked out to a good value and you need to balance things up again.

Rusty · 07-21-2013, 08:04 AM

Here's a video from the first session. The instructor had me working on a few different things.

gurneyeagle · 07-21-2013, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Got more work done.

This is what the ducts look like now. I have the reducers epoxy to the ducts. That is the only way I could get the right side pieces to stay together.

Hi Rusty

It looks like you ended cutting the tubes on both ducts. On the right side, did you simply angle it down or down and to the grille side?

Thanks!

Mike

wstar · 07-21-2013, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Here's a video from the first session. The instructor had me working on a few different things.

Nice vid Rusty, you're doing great! Seems smooth and calm and you're looking through the corners for lining up good lines, watching instructor's signals and corner workers, working the passing signals, etc. All good things!

My only $0.02 on that vid is hand (and maybe seat) position. IMHO, they should be telling you to plant your hands at 9 and 3 on the steering wheel and try to just keep them there unless a tight turn absolutely demands it. Getting this to work out for you may require adjusting your seat position backwards a little to get your knees out of the way of the lower hand, and/or adjusting steering tilt, etc. It's tricky to get the cockpit configured just right sometimes, but it really makes life easier once it's all Just Right.

ETA: Looking back at your previous vids, it seems you had your hands/seat/etc in a better position last time around. Experimenting?

Rusty · 07-21-2013, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Nice vid Rusty, you're doing great! Seems smooth and calm and you're looking through the corners for lining up good lines, watching instructor's signals and corner workers, working the passing signals, etc. All good things!

My only $0.02 on that vid is hand (and maybe seat) position. IMHO, they should be telling you to plant your hands at 9 and 3 on the steering wheel and try to just keep them there unless a tight turn absolutely demands it. Getting this to work out for you may require adjusting your seat position backwards a little to get your knees out of the way of the lower hand, and/or adjusting steering tilt, etc. It's tricky to get the cockpit configured just right sometimes, but it really makes life easier once it's all Just Right.

ETA: Looking back at your previous vids, it seems you had your hands/seat/etc in a better position last time around. Experimenting?

Yea, I had the seat too far forward. About 3 clicks.

Couldn't get comfortable in the seat all day. My left knee was beating off something on the door panel. Have a nice mark on the knee now.

And my a$$ felled wedged in the seat. Just one of those days. The videos are at the end of the sessions. So I slow down and listen to the instructor a little better and have a discussion on the session. It's all about learning.

Rusty · 07-21-2013, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gurneyeagle

Hi Rusty

It looks like you ended cutting the tubes on both ducts. On the right side, did you simply angle it down or down and to the grille side?

Thanks!

Mike

The right side duct was a pita to get it angled right. It was trial and fit. I ended up cutting the duct on an angle that would allow for clearance with the reducer and hose to pass the washer bottle. Took me about 3hrs to figure it out. So take your time and look on how you want to run the hose. you may end up cutting the duct and the reducer a couple of times to get it to fit.

On the left duct. I cut it to match the right duct. Just so they look the same.

Oh, I used a 2 part epoxy for plastic to glue everything together.

06-27-2013, 02:28 AM	#274 (permalink)
shaun66 Track Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: n Posts: 837 Drives: MB 370z 7AT Rep Power: 17	Cool truck! Snorkal ever come in handy? Rusty likes this.

07-20-2013, 02:11 PM	#279 (permalink)
sig11 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Detroit Posts: 1,294 Drives: 09 370Z Red Sport-MT Rep Power: 18	Doesn't look too bad. Camber arms will help a ton though. :P Rusty likes this.

07-20-2013, 03:27 PM	#280 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Yeah front camber is really lacking on this car, especially once you put stiffer springs on that drop the car a little. Personally, I haven't had any real issue with rear camber at stock settings. I just adjust the rear Hotchkis bar to balance out the car a bit in the oversteer direction and my rear tires wear pretty evenly as they slip around. Maybe it starts becoming more of an issue after you do get the front camber kicked out to a good value and you need to balance things up again. Rusty likes this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

07-21-2013, 08:04 AM	#281 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,316 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684438	Here's a video from the first session. The instructor had me working on a few different things. gurneyeagle likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

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