Really enjoyed this journal, and the creativity here. Good stuff man! The DIY fabrication is awesome.

Speedy recovery Champ !

You know it. :eek::icon14::rofl2:
I put brake pads and rotors on the wife's Grand Cherokee, and a belt and 2 idler pulleys on my Power Wagon this week. :icon14: Doing everything one handed sucks donkey balls. :shakes head:

You should be used to it by now with the way you browse the internet late at night... your donkey show websites and such :ugh2:

:icon17:

You seeing something that I shouldn't be looking at? :eek: Because I'm in bed around 1 to 2 am.

Got some more work done today.
Got the bearings pressed on the OS Giken LSD carrier. :tup:

Ran the oil pressure and water temp wiring from under the hood to the inside of the cabin.
1st, 2nd, and 3rd pic's. The hole I drilled out, then enlarged to 3/4" diameter.
4th pic. Rubber gromet and the wiring running through.
5th pic. Used clothes hanger to push wiring through the main wiring boot.
6th pic. Wiring through the main wiring boot. When I'm done wiring. I'l put some RTV over the slit that the wiring goes through to seal it.

Remove the cubby hole for gauge install.
2nd pic shows how I will have the gauges layout. Across the top. Oil Pressure on the left and Water Temp on the right. Below the Water Temp will be the Diff Temp. To the left of the Diff Temp and below the Oil Pressure will be the switches to the diff oil pump, diff fan, YAW sensor, and dimmer for the gauge lights.

That's a sealed up looking unit; are the clutches,etc...all internal?

Nice work!!!:tup:

Everything is internal. Put the ring gear on and install it.

Outstanding progress Mr. Rusty :tup:

Got some more work done on the gauges.

More pic's.

Forgot about the switches.
The left switch is for the YAW sensor. Blue light.
The top knob between the gauges is a dimmer for the lights in the gauges.
The next switch down is for the diff oil pump. Red light.
And the bottom switch is for the diff oil fan. Red light.

VERY nice!

Seen the surgeon today. No more brace! :tup: BUT no lifting with that arm for awhile. The only time I'm to lift with it is at rehab. The arm is tired just from walking around without the brace.:icon14: Now maybe, I can make some progress on the Nismo. :D

Nice...don't over do it lol!

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That's my middle name. :icon14:

:rofl2:

over do it

Got a switch for nuke missles? Lol

Looking back through this thread. I don't have any pictures of my ATI damper installed. So here is 2.

Figured out my wiring behind the cubby for the gauges and switches. I can't run a switch with a light in it for the YAW sensor like I wanted to. :shakes head: So the wiring is done behind the gauges and switches. I'm trying to make this plug and play. If I have to remove the cubby in the future. All I have to do is unplug a couple of connectors. :D

1st pic is the backside of the cubby completed.
2nd pic is of the connection bar and relays for the diff pump and diff fan. This will be mounted to the dash.

Looks great!

Do you think you'll run the pump without the fan or vice versa?

I didn't use separate switches on mine


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Great job, nice and clean!

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Hello Mr. Todd, glad to see you are still alive and well lol! I to catch up with at zdayz 2018 my friend.

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I'll run the pump first. If the temps don't come down the way I would like them to. Then I'll switch the fan on. I'll know more once I'm back up and running, and have some experience with it. :tup:

Gauges are done. :D I have to trim a little in one spot on the panel. And try to figure out my YAW sensor switch. Trying to have it work with a lighted switch that has 3 plugs on the back. A ground, load, and power.

Pic's of what behind the cubby looks like now.

Some pic's of the gauges installed, and the motor running.
The oil pressure spikes to 100 psi and stays there for awhile. Then drops down to about 40psi. Have the LED warning light set at 25 psi.

Since I have the water temp sensor in the upper rad hose. It will see temp after the thermostat is open. So I will see the Dots move first. Have the LED warning light set at 255F.

Have to label the switches yet.

Have to finish routing the wires back to the diff. Pull the diff. Install the OS Giken LSD, the SPL diff bushings, and diff cooler yet. Have the LED warning light set to 255F.

You are the man...so much WIN!!!!

Bum arm and bruised ribs from said arm giving out the other day when trying to finish the inside wiring. Arm gave out and I bounced off the lower seat side bolster. :eek: :shakes head:

So today..........feeling well enough to finish running the wiring from the dash to the rear of the Z, inside the spare tire area. I got it done. Had to watch how I twisted and how much weight I put on my arm. :shakes head:
1st pic. The wiring under the console.
2nd pic. Wiring going under the rear of the console.
3rd pic. Wiring in the red harness coming out from the front of the Z.
4th pic. Wiring going through the frame.
5th pic. Wiring coming out of the frame and where it will go through the body to the outside of the Z. See the plug there.

More pic's. The foam filler piece that goes in the void in front of the frame shock towers. When I did phunk's RRP years ago. I had trimmed that foam piece so that I could remove it if I had to in the future. Without removing all of the plastic interior panels. I was thinking ahead when I did this. :tup:

Rusty, how do you like this as a mod? I see from the specs that it's about 4% underdriven (if I'm reading the table correctly); would you say there is a noticeable improvement in performance from this item?

Tell you the truth. I can't tell the difference. I got it to help the stock oil pump live at high rpm's.

Here's a link to my install of the rear SPL suspension parts. :D Traction arms, Camber arms. Lock-out bolts, Knuckle monoball bushings.

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...on-almost.html

Suspension necessities if you want to put and keep the power down!:tiphat:

...........................and be deeper in that rabbit hole. :eek: :driving: :rofl2:

Got parts today from Z1. XP10 and XP8 pads and a Z1 brake master cylinder brace.

And since I had the wheels off. I decided to chase the threads on the wheel studs and lug nuts to clean them up with a 12mm x 1.25mm tap and die.