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Oh really?!? What was he doing to his car?
Thanks boost! |
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Did not know that, that's awesome. I need to go visit that shop just to see what's going on. Never been there. I know he's been working on Ron and Bryan's Z.
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On a side note, I love those fenders on your ride. Car is looking good. I saw some fresh pics on the Z club FB page. :tup: |
Damn, I wanted to make it to Baytown this weekend too :(
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Thanks a bunch! Yeah I'll try to make it out this weekend. Have a full plate so ill have to pick and choose what to attend.
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http://vimeo.com/m/52333062
Last DeNofa race. Ron Burgenholtz/JTran representing! Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2 |
Awesome video and hes an amazing driver! Remember watching him at local events getting better and better. One event we were having fun putting bottles on the wall and watching him knock them off as he passed by each time closer and closer. Cool to see a local guy go pro.
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So I bought some Bride Zeta III seats a month ago as I found a 350Z owner selling them on my350Z for a good price. They were barely used, said he sat on them about 5 times. Sold my Advans and used someone the money to pay for these, then I ordered some rails from Scott at Vivid Racing on Nov 1st and waited for those to come in. I told him I needed them by thanksgiving as Z Club of Houston was entering my car in the Autorama show, he said no problem. 3 days before the event he writes me saying Bride screwed him and cannot have the rails shipped out till mid Dec. Big FML moment. Before that happened I had saw a new set for sale here on this forum and since he was just a few hours away in Louisiana I had him ship them to me priority. 2 days later they arrived but right after I had just went to check in my car at the car show. Had my wife bring the seats and rails to me and I installed the seats there at the car show.
http://distilleryimage5.s3.amazonaws...0a1fb7e1_7.jpg Took the stock seats home and began to take remove all the clips to take out the weight sensor. http://distilleryimage3.s3.amazonaws...0a9f3090_7.jpg Had a bunch of zipties left over from my 240SX days and put the seat back together, then went to tackle soldering the resistors to the airbag harnesses. http://distilleryimage8.s3.amazonaws...0a1fbdaa_7.jpg After the car show I went to pick up my car. Plugged in the harnesses and weight sensor, connected the battery again and voila, no air bag lights. Squeezed my *** into the seats and drove home like a boss. |
Awesome man! Would you be willing to do a better DIY and post it up for me? I got some Sparco Fighters and need to do this as well. I have no idea what to do though =(
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http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...light-fix.html There are a lot of clips though like 20-30 which is the biggest P.I.T.A. and then stretching the material back after you take out the sensor is another. But the zipties make it very easy to put it back to the way it was. Lmk if you have any problems. I picked up the 1/4w 4.7 ohm resistors at a local Fry's store which seemed to work good. |
Thanks I will check it out when I get home today (dont click links at work). Just curious is it the same for the touring seats?
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I think the only different ones are the ones with heated seats. They may have an extra wire. I would look into the comments of that thread to see if someone covered that issue. Im not too sure what the fix would be.
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http://distilleryimage6.s3.amazonaws...0a1c00c6_7.jpg
Ran out of tire on my base wheels so I found these used on my350Z.com ;) 18x10 +22 Enkei RP03 wrapped in Falken 452 275/35's http://distilleryimage5.s3.amazonaws...0a9d0dee_7.jpg |
Finally had some time to work on the car this weekend. With Hot Import Nights next week I needed to get some things done. First I hated the white that showed behind the Top Secret front lip so I painted the fangs black.
http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...s-blackout.jpg Still wet in this pic but it should dry flat black. http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...secret-lip.jpg Second, took the headlights off to fix the 3m wrap. After 8 months, some parts started bubbling and one part tore. http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...toration-2.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...r-8-months.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...r-8-months.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...r-8-months.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...8-dsc-0270.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...9-dsc-0273.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...0-dsc-0276.jpg I believe this happened because I didnt use this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg And I noticed it bubbled on parts that I worked over and over. Guess it lost it stickiness. So some of my new plans of adding more to the headlights required me to do this: http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...hroud-halo.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...hroud-halo.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...hroud-halo.jpg Stay tuned for more updates tomorrow after I get my package in the mail. |
Stoked to see what you do next with the headlights! How much did you pay for that 3M CF wrap? Love the look!
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the 3m I got on amazon. They sell it by the square foot so you just need at least 4 square ft. I got a 60"x24" roll for like $40-$50. Just learn from my mistakes and get the primer to go with it. Also try not to stretch it too much because over time it will pop out.
Worked on the headlights a bunch more last night. This is the package I got in the mail from theretrofitsource.com. XB amber halos and a g37 projector glass. http://distilleryimage8.s3.amazonaws...0a9e2899_7.jpg Just test fitting to see if its the right size and it looks perfect. http://distilleryimage2.s3.amazonaws...0a1f9e77_7.jpg http://distilleryimage7.s3.amazonaws...0a1f9ada_7.jpg I drilled a hole in the shroud to mount the halo and it fit so snug i dont even think i will need glue. For the smaller shroud, I will need to trim a bit more inside so the plastic doesnt show and the glass fits better. I will do that today. Also had time to remove the 3m from the chrome housings. Will upload more pics later. |
The lights are going to be saweet!
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Wow tapatalk makes uploading images easy. So now to update:
First I cut off the connector from the halo to feed the halo wire through a drilled a hole in the shroud. The halo fits in very snug but add glue just in case. Just have to be careful to not apply too much pressure on white spot when pressing it in or you can damage the halo. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/aguhanat.jpg Next moving on the the turn signal. I cut the plastic off leaving only the plastic on the inside which i then had to trim down from within so it didnt show when i placed the halo over. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/zuzunu7e.jpg Next was the sticky part. After trimming down over and over to get the lens to fit snug I then used Automotive Goop to glue it in place. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/8uderubu.jpg Once that was dry I glued the halo on and did the other one. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/epesequz.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/upa4a7e4.jpg While that was gluing I went to paint the housing. Had to really clean this since the 3m left a sticky residue everywhere. Was going to wrap in real carbon but was running out of time since Hot Import Nights was on saturday. So I decided to paint it glossy black instead. I opted for this instead of flat black because i wanted the halos to reflect light on the housing. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/nuzeramu.jpg Waiting for that to dry I soldered the connector back on to the 90mm halo since it was already mounted to the shroud. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/ravyzuru.jpg Try not to burn santa! http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/4aba8uvu.jpg Since I am running dual halos I soldered the ends of the wires together so I only have to feed one wire through the headlight case. Those connectors I have at the end actually feed into a waterproof plug. This is because I want to wire these to the fuse box so they turn on when the car turns on. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/7edyheny.jpg Testing to see if my soldering worked http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/my6u5yjy.jpg Now that everything dried I put the headlight back together and fed the wire down the bottom through the rubber plug http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/qyqaseza.jpg And here is the finished headlight after baking and sealing. I kept the 3m on the reflector just to keep some of hint of carbon fiber. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/6a2ezaga.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/syse7ega.jpg |
Looks awesome, another guy just used the color also, I really like it.
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love the lights man!!!! :tup:
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Looks good. I really liked the carbon fiber as well. Hopefully after the Holidays I will be able to black mine out. Would love to do cf but I do not have the patience to work it in all the little cracks. Now I really want to put a projector lense in for the turn signal.
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So for the car show I ran the wire in side the car to plug into my capacitor to power the halos. Now that the show is over I planned to run the wire to the fuse box. Was going to buy one of those fuse taps but had an idea to just use that useless cigarette lighter under the passenger dash. Unscrewed it, attached a flat connection and slid it in the power slot. Easiest wiring ever lol. Now the halos turn on/off with the car.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/18/a7ymy2a4.jpg |
Love the lights!
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Got a new project. Installing these in the rear should give my square 18" setup the same fitment on the rears as it does the fronts. My rims are 18x10 +22 so these should make the rears 18x10 +2.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/20/uvy7ytu2.jpg |
Great job on the lights. You definitely went at it lol
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Photo taken from HIN Houston by Jason Scott of Southrnfresh. Spacers should fix the rear.
http://www.the370z.com/members/vdc_o...outon-2012.jpg |
So to get back into the drifting topic, I have many plans for next year. Going to fix the things I learned need fixing like suspension. I feel my car is heavy and the 9k springs with stock shocks aren't cutting it. Pictures show a lot of sagging which some drifters say is good, but I want to try something better. I have some Top Secret Arogosta 14k, 10k coilovers I'm about to buy in feb. Also I need my rear camber arms to get 0 degrees to have more contact in the rear and get one for the front because I need -5 degrees of camber there to create a good contact at full steering lock. Which brings me to my biggest problem. Steering angle!
My steering locks pretty early not giving me enough room to save my drift if I enter at too much of an angle. I max out and end up in a spin which is no fun. Plus if I want to get better I need to get more sideways. So since there are not many of you into drifting, looks like I have to figure this out myself. Looking at my steering I see one obvious thing in the way. The bump stop. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/22/y9esa5ah.jpg These seems easy enough to cut off so here we go. Removed that little plate and began cutting. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/22/6unu5ape.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/22/edepyse4.jpg Was gonna paint it black but what the hell. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/22/dyparepe.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/22/zeva6uza.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/22/ragybene.jpg Problem is I'm still not seeing much of an improvement. It's still stopping for some reason. Have to do more research. |
In that pic, you have 18x10 +22 on all four corners, without spacers? I've been looking for a universal square 18x10 setup to put on my car someday where I can rotate freely between all corners (and buy a 5th as a ready-to-go spare), looks like a good offset choice :)
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nice updates man, glad you're sticking with it
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Just got these Powered By Max tie rod spacers in the mail. These should help increase my steering angle. Yes they are dangerous since they remove some of the threads that hold the tie rod to the steering rack but lots of people use them fine without problems by using thread lock. Also got a magnetic oil plug since it was perty.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/08/6e8enydu.jpg |
Picture taken of me and my wife at the Blast from the Past show in Katy, TX
http://i0.wp.com/houston-streets.com...04207526-3.jpg |
Finally made time to put these studs/spacers on. I tried before but found out that I cant just slide these in because they are too long, an extra 25mm over stock which is like double the size of the oem ones. Ended up putting it back together for when I had more time to pull the hub. Pulling the hub was not an easy task. Required getting to the 4 bolts behind the knuckle, which meant pulling out the axles, then getting my breaker bar in there meant dropping the camber and traction arms, which meant dropping the ladder support. This is what my car looked like after all this:
http://distilleryimage4.s3.amazonaws...0a1f9363_7.jpg Now came the next problem, studs werent going in as easy as I thought they would. After closer inspection, I noticed the knurls did not look the same. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/24/a6e9ytej.jpg I counted them and saw that arp had 45 and oem had 35. I wrote Justin at Z1 and he said that he has installed these same WRX ARP studs on many Z's, you just have to press them in. He said the knurls arent as important so much as the diameter. Not having much choice since I need my car for a road trip a few days later I rented a press from autozone. http://distilleryimage3.s3.amazonaws...0a1fbda6_7.jpg Here they are back on the car. Now to bolt everything back up and torque to specs with my new torque wrench I got for Christmas. http://distilleryimage4.s3.amazonaws...0a9f1886_7.jpg Rear is now as flush as the front :) http://distilleryimage0.s3.amazonaws...0a1faf7c_7.jpg Now that thats done and I just got paid, time to buy tires and register for this: http://www.fabricatedmotorsports.com...-3-24-2013.jpg |
looking good brother :tup: good luck on the drift comp
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Nice install, I had to do the same for my extended studs! Looking good bud!
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Same here had to do mine the same.
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Looks great. Who did your door handles?
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